Christoffer Lindelav

This is as far as I dare go with skinning the belly for now. The forward join and intakes will require some adjustment before I can skin over that portion-
perhaps the oil-canning between the speedbrake wells is a little over done; but it is such a common characteristic of the T-38-I had to do it. Should look ok under paint..it’s just super reflective right now in bare aluminum.


 
…so on to the top next I guess!
 
P

…got that left speed brake well surrounded by aluminum.
can’t resist slapping the tail feathers up for a look-
 
P

Chopped out the channels for the speedbrake arms..

The gear wells have suffered some shop rash over the 14 years of construction and need some love.
the printed speedbrakes from Timmy! Literally drop into place.
genius.
fabulous.
 
P

A parting in the Red Sea?  Holy Moses!!

They have some very knowledgeable people onboard their projects, so maybe it's a reflection of tiny explosions of happiness in customers brains.

Finished.
 

 

 

 

 

 
Thanks for following along.
 
Dan

Most painting is done. Just a few touchups. I have tried to weather it, hope it doesn't look to bad.
 

 

 

 

 

 
Working on a suitable display base. Stay tuned.....
 
Dan

Greeblies!
 
I found some free Greeblies. Here they are printed out. These will go a long way toward adding some "organic" detail to the model.
 

 

 
Reprinted on my resin machine. Much better.
 

 

 
Gluing the Port engine on. On the starboard side you can see the support wires.
 

 
Later, Dan

Got the tail antenna up..still needs to be blended in. Also the tail beacons. Continuing to skin the belly-

 

Hi friends, this is my last project - 3D printed German submarine Type VII-C.
Of course a lot of re-works and scratch-build  were add here for detailing the beast.
Also a great add is Eduard Brasin 88 mm gun at 1:48 scale.
To be more interesting - Tamiya 1:48 scale German figures are a nice touch for the finish.
Special Thanks for Fran Gaur for 3D .stl files of Das Boot
So here she is - 1 meter and 40 centimeters Kriegsmarine Beast :
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Thanks friends for stopping by
Cheers and have a nice day
 

Having been a strictly airplane guy for the last 40 years this build is a big step....sideways.
 
I have always liked the Y wing and have always wanted to build one. But a big one. The only IM kit is a Bandai 1:72. Nice but small.
 
So while wandering one of the 3d print sites I saw some Y wing files for sale. $25. What a deal. The transaction was simple and 10 minutes later I had the files.
 
In all of my research I came across a term that I was unfamiliar with, Studio scale. Essentially this is the scale that was used to produce the movie miniatures that were used in the movies. Or 1:24th scale. Cool. Nice and big.
 
The downloaded files were in 1:18th scale. Even I am not this crazy. Well, at least not yet. So after doing some math I determined that if the files were reduced to 75% it would be 1:24th scale.
 
So I reduced the size and began preparing the files in my slicer. However, many of the parts are way too big to fit my smallish resin printer. This necessitated printing the smaller parts on the resin Machine and the main body parts on my filament machine.
 
Anyway here are the first parts. Both printed on my filament machine.
 

 
 

 
Stay tuned. lots o fun ahead.
 
Dan
 
 

Evening all
Thought I'd post a quick update of where I'm up to. Since Friday last week, I have been working on the top plate. I was asked elsewhere if I could elaborate a bit more on the process of detailing. I thought the top plate edging would be a good subject to show how I do things.
Quick disclaimer -  I am not a professional modeller and my work is pretty average in terms of tidiness but I try. I have seen some seriously amazing scratch builders here and on other sites, with some actual skills they could teach which is why I feel like a little bit of a fraud doing this as what I do pales in comparison. But I said I would, so here goes.
 
First, I had to measure out how much over hang I wanted and then conform the back edge to the edge of the existing base plate:
 
 
 
 
Then I drew out a basic outline of the edges:
 
 
resulting in:
 
 
Using the waste material from the base layer cut, I then made a second layer. This was then flipped over and every edge lined with 0.20x0.20 strip plastic. I have run out of strip already - I used an entire pack on just 3 sides with the rear ones still to go. I'll be in the city on Friday so I'll pick some more up then
 
 
 
 
 
So that's 2 evenings worth of work. Now I have started to detail the lower ledges. Once they've been done, I'll permanently attach them and then blend in the upper surface to the plates. Then the detailing will be done and I can move onto painting and lighting it all.
 
 
 
As you can see, I've found a good use for all those left over PE radar bits I have lying around. They make for some great details  
I hope I haven't insulted anyone's skill levels with my very basic and rudimentary attempts at scratch building, but I'm hopeful it will help someone out with some ideas..
 
As always, thanks for stopping in and having a look
Si
 

I just bought the one for the 2000C and its a masterpiece in 3D printing. 

Mine finally turned up last week, after it was delivered to the wrong address - ho hum , at least it finally turned up 
 
And damm  it  goes together beautifully!

The kit is really nice. It's very detailed. I built it shortly after it came out. There's a lot of small parts to the kit, including some that are PE.
 

 

 

 

 

 
I still need to paint it at some point. 
 

hi again
Time for another update to this on-going saga. Almost finished the right side mid level - just some more detail to add and then it's onto the final detailing stage of the top plate.
The left side is pretty much done as I want it to be. just a couple more detail bits but not much
So, starting with the left side:
 
 
 
 
Now the right side:
 
 
 
 
There are a couple more photos but something weird is going on with Flickr right now which is causing images not to post properly. I have advanced a fair bit in the time  since these photos were taken, but the next update will be the finished levels (not painted)
If you have any constructive feedback, by all means, please let me know - I won't get any better without it.
As always, thanks for stopping in and having a look
Till next time
Si

I have been developing the fuselage side panels in Rhino, including the Malcolm hood additions with the roller bar.  In so doing, it became more and more apparent to me that my rollers, and the width of the bar, appear too small.  I have been struggling to figure out what diameter those rollers are.  First, I am not aware of a P-51B/C Malcolm hooded model in any scale that actually has the rollers.  Second, I am not aware of any technical data out there that would tell me.  So all I can do is study all the pictures I have, like this (notice the rollers along the sides of the fuselage):
 
  
 
Comparing roller size to other items in there, where I have an idea what their dimensions are, and I first came up with a roller diameter of .75 inch.  Pretty small.  Well, too small, it was beginning to be apparent.  So I did some more measuring, and revised that diameter to .875 inch.  I played around with 1.0 inch rollers in Rhino, and things were just not integrating well.  So I am convinced a 1.0 inch roller is too large.  Hence 7/8 (.875).  Who knows?  Being a British field mod, they may be a metric size.....
 
Anyway, some of you might think I am splitting hairs, and you might be right.  Here I spent a couple days changing everything affected by the larger rollers and roller bar:
 
 
 
It looks better to me.....
 
So it occurred to me that it might be wishful thinking to print up a couple of side panels either with the roller bar incorporated into them, or locating provisions for the bar, print up the Malcolm hood along with its side guides, and have it all fit perfectly to the already completed windshield.  As exacting as parts can be when digitally defined and 3D printed, alot parts are in play and tolerances are going to add up.  I need a good match-up.
 
So I decided to make some test side panels, and do rev "A" of the side guides for the hood (I did some months ago but new larger ones required for the larger rollers):
 

 

 
Here are the side guides bonded to one of my Malcolm hoods (that I will not be using, but now makes a good test part):
 

 
Pretty nice looking for a test part....    Now to get those test side panels onto the jig and longerons:
 
 
 
These are simplified test panels, so I cannot permanently bond them.  Just taped.  My finished windshield is on there too - taped in place.
 
A couple things I wanted the test to tell me:
 
1.  Will the hood fit onto and slide on the rollers? 
2.  Will the rollers retain the side guides such that the hood will not just fall off?  
3.  Will the hood fit to the windshield properly when closed?
 
OK numbers 1 and 2 - When Rhino modeling the details, I took a guess how much clearance I needed between the track surfaces on the side guides, and the rollers.  Too tight and the side guides will not fit onto the rollers, or if it does the hood might not be able to be slide fore and aft.  Too loose and the hood will fall off; it is too flexible to just stay in place on its own.  Here it is snapped onto the rollers:  
 
 
 
It wouldn't move!  So I carefully pried it off and gave edges of the rollers and the track some light sanding, and tried again.  It grudgingly was able to slide some, but the more I moved it, the easier it got.  So victory.
 
Now for the uber important number 3 - fit-up to the windshield.  Boy did I get a surprise:
 

 
 

 
A full .03 inch too low!  WTF??  Also too low at its aft end:
 

 
It is dragging on the top of the station 146 frame, where there should be about .03 inch clearance.
 
Normal tolerances are not responsible for that.  Something is wrong.  What is it??   Why, why, why??  It's supposed to be perfect.  So I began measuring everything.  Where is the error?  Is the windshield too tall?  Nope, its right on.  Are the side panels mislocated?  Nope - they are fine.  Is the hood too short?  YES!  Too short.  By about .03 inch.  There is the problem.  But why?  For some reason the part doesn't match the Rhino model.  Did it shrink when being printed?  Don't know yet.
 
Fortunately, I have another couple of hood transparencies that I am not going to use, and I had printed a second set of side guides incase I ruined one.  So I shimmed between the side guides and the transparency with .02 plastic, and retested with a now slightly taller Malcolm hood.
 
Got great results:
 

 

 
 
Wow!!  What potential.  Am I glad I did this test.  Now I have to figure out what is what with the Malcolm hood transparency.  I will do some critical measurements on all remaining parts (I have 5 total, none of which are clear enough for prime time) and see if that dimensional error is consistent. 
 
Now I am fixated on the Malcolm hood.  I now have two 3D printed burnishing surfaces - one male and one female:
 
   
 
 
They were not hard to design and print.  About half a day's work.  The transparency fits nicely into or over either, and I can sand and burnish and polish away. 
 
Next step is to understand how I got that .03 mismatch and make corrections, whatever they may be.  Then, I will have Shapeways do my next transparency, in Accura 60 resin.  The Malcolm hood transparency is just too difficult for me.  I have come close, but no cigar.  The quote is about $45 for one, $72 for two.  I'm going to do it, and hope that is what gets me over the finish line.  When the parts come they will require sanding/burnishing/polishing with the new tools.  
 
In parallel with that activity, I will finish designing the forward side panels.  Lots of interior items that will interface with them - some I will incorporate into the panels, some I will just incorporate locating features.  To worry about - control pedestal, flare gun port, electrical boxes, throttle quadrant, and pulley wheel brackets. 
 
Fun times.  Stay tuned please!    
 

Several photos up in the thread I spied a sub-scale Godzilla among the many things on your bench, Pete, and was wondering if he was photo bombing or if he has a job.  My smaller version of the same critter has guarded things I consider important for almost 60 years.  I found him discarded on the ground decades ago and, after a good scrubbing, have had him ever since.  He lived in my field box among my horde of Eberhard Faber Ebony pencils, kneaded erasers and cheap water colors while I was in college before moving up to my big hangar tool box years later to protect seven different airplanes and an equal number of BMWs.  He looks much the same now as he did then - that Gatorade-looking yellow green that looks like it might glow in the dark - and still does a manly job of keeping order on my bench to the point that I can’t imagine life without him.  My son understood the importance of the thing but not the special bond that has developed over the years and tried to purloin him for the same mission before heading off to his first assignment.  I sensed that something was afoot and rescued the little bugger at the last minute.  Always on the job, never misses a thing and is good company.  Highly recommended.  Everyone should have one.

I reached out to Jetmads for a couple of questions related to what will be included in the Draken kit. As always they were happy to answer them..
I really love building 1/32 models of Royal Danish Airforce aircraft (for obvious reasons I guess..) so I asked about some specific, and very obvious, features on RDAF Drakens.
 
Most Drakens in RDAF service were converted into RF versions with one of a few special nose sections (see below) so naturally I was curious if they would include one of these nose sections. The answer was unfortunately "No" - only the F-35 "pointy" nose will be included in this release. However they did say this.... "While they are visually more attractive, recce noses and most possibly a Danish F-35 nose version will be addressed in future releases of the Draken. We would like to hereby note that a separate “Special Scheme Drakens” release is also being considered, however the schedule is yet to be decided."  - Yaiks! Take more of my money please 
 

 
I also asked about the external fuel tanks. RDAF Drakens only flew with the oval shaped fuel tanks as opposed to the more pointy versions used by other operators. I am really happy they confirmed that the oval tanks will be included in the kit along with the other styles
 

 
/Niels
 

JmcD I got that message as well, but my Royal Mail tracking app is still reporting that it's somewhere between Turkey and the UK, so I'm now imagining a small boat laden wit Viggen kits being frantically rowed towards the UK 
 
Sp O'll carry on twiddling my fingers and quietly fuming!
 

Tack, tack! (that's about the extent of my Swedish beyond "Happy Birthday" and "Merry Christmas").
 
Regarding shipping updates: I got incomplete shipper updates from the website supplied by Jetmads, and I knew very little until the package was in the States. Then it just appeared with no "out for delivery" or other announcements. My advice is be patient. I was NOT, but all's well that ends well.

About to start skinning the tail.
this is the third one I’ve built, I think-
 
fuel drain to install still; then I can start applying aluminum after sorting out the top panel

Other side-

Felt like bending some metal today-



 
cheers
Pigfyter

well, seeing as I have some making up to do in regards to this thread, here's a couple of the most recent (as of tonight) of where I am up to.
I'm over half way done on the left hand side but now that I've added some extra plating on this side, I'll have to do the same on the other side and also the top plate. I have to go careful that I don't extend the shelf too far out or all the detail work will be lost which is why I will be installing SMD's on both levels.
 
Up until 2 nights ago it was looking like this:
 
 
 
And now it looks like this:
 
 
 
And a couple of close ups. Bear in mind, the detailing is not yet finished as I need to blend the parts in more which I will do over the course of the next couple of weeks
 
 
 
 
 
 
Hopefully you can see where I'm going with it. Once it's primed etc, it'll look totally different and much more cohesive
Thanks for sticking around!
Si