KUROK

My first attempt of airbrushed camouflage of UF-L piece of No. 601 Squadron RAF - September 1941 (F/O Jiří Maňák - CZ).
 
 

Hi all, as many of you know I have had a challenging few months with sickness, redundancy, new job, writing my vehicle off in an accident with my son in the car etc.  I have been off the forums for a while but needed a 'Quick Build' to get my Mojo going.  
Here I present you with the Tamiya 1/32 Mustang I decided to build for a good friend who has been my certifying engineer on my own 1:1 Auster T.7 rebuild.  This was their family's plane in the late 60's early 70's.  She sadly got sold overseas and now flies with Kermit Weeks as "Cripes A Mighty 3rd"  She was much admired and loved by the public and owners before she left our shores. She was always well presented and kept in immaculate condition.
 
I tried to build OOB but ended up using some of Roy's (Barracuda Studios) bits and Ventura Publications gorgeous new decal sheet.  I have to say the quality of Ventura here was amazing.  I also used Mr Color for all the paint.  Sorry I didnt do a WiP as I was just doing it for mental health reasons....and actually finished it LOL!  Anyway I hope he and you guys like it.  I suspect it will be gone in a week or 2.
 
Back to the 32nd RAF FG.1 conversion again now!
 
Thanks for looking

 

 
Outside shots taken this morning

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Because she was so beautifully maintained and cleaned after each flight I really struggled no to weather some more....
 
Cheers Anthony

I had my S2F Tracker in my project track as my next scratchbuild but decided I might bore of it and lose interest. I don’t think that’ll be the case with this. Excited to add a jet to my 1/24 jones. That is a very rare thing in injection mold kit world (just the Harrier). I don’t expect very much 3D here, despite capabilities. Maybe landing gear? 


 

In addition to building a model of a Swiss Bf-109 (a topic elsewhere on this forum), I started work on a 1/32 model of an F-104C. For some reason, I decided to build two kits at once. Hopefully, that goes well!
 
First up is the ejection seat. I started with Eduard Brassin C2 ejection seat kit, which is composed of resin and photoetch parts. The quality is excellent. I cleaned up the parts and airbrushed Tamiya Gray Primer followed by Alclad II Airframe Aluminum, AK Worn Effects, and AK Zinc Chromate. Once dried, I sprayed on a coat of Vallejo Dark Gull Gray. A water-based scrubbing then took place to add wear and tear. I’ve not done multi-layer distressing effects before, and I’m satisfied with the results. A gloss coat was applied (Tamiya X-22), then decals, another gloss coat, and a final bit with Tamiya's Panel Line Accent Color (black). Finally, everything was sealed with XF-86 matte.
 
With the ejection seat completed, the cockpit tub is next and so far this is coming along pretty well. I’m using Eduard’s photoetch fret to populate some of the details on the floor and walls, and will use Red Fox Studio’s 3D printed controls (these look nicely printed, BTW).  
 

 

 

 

 

 

Well gents,
 
1/32 WWII birds currently being my favourite modelling subjects, it is time for the next one after Hase's 109. Also, a radial bird will be a refreshment after two V's.
 
This will be my first Tami's big bird, probably my favourite WWII aircraft.
For the extras, and for the first time, I will be using Barracuda's resin wheels, HGW fabric seatbelts, EagleCals' decals and HGW standard cockpit stencils.
 
I will be trying multiple chipping method on the wing roots which I have previously done only once on a 1/48 Stuka. Challenging stuff to make it look right, at least in my experience
 
I will probably be doing the box art bird, Jolly Rogers 17-F-13. So far I have only one reference photo of this plane so if anyone has more please share or direct me to the source. It would be much appreciated! 
 
Best,
Nikola
 




 

Hey!  That sure is a funny looking Airacobra!  

Hey!  That sure is a funny looking Airacobra!  

It's really well finished!

Thanks for the kind words Denis!
 
Yes, I have decided which paint I'm going to use - and it's something a bit different from the norm - but something I've been itching to try for quite a while - Humbrol Metal Cote.
 

 
I've always liked the effects I've seen in the videos Humbrol put out on their YouTube tutorials.. e.g.
 
 
I'm going to alternate panels between the Polished Steel and Polished Aluminium versions.
 
I'm building a Tamiya 1/48 P-51 concurrently purely to use as a mule to test the Metal Cote and its application before I turn it loose on the 'proper 1/32 version!

Hello all guys, a nice kit finished a few weeks ago.
 It's a direct box mount, just extra wires and tubes.
 A pure pleasure to assemble 
 
 
 
Kunming , décembre 1941
 



 
 
Thank you for watching.

Hi All
Been on the forum a while, but haven't really posted much. I normally build 48 Scale, but slowly building a collection of 32nd scale kits.
Thought I would share some photos of my latest build. This is the Tamiya 1/32 Spitfire MKXVIe kit.
 
The paint scheme is of TB675 who was flown by Squadron leader Anthony John Reeves of 74 squadron. I decided to do this particular plane, as while I was visiting my father who lives in the Cook Islands, last year, I discovered that A J Reeves was buried at the cemetery next to the Cook Islands RSA. I also found out his wife was still alive and attended the RSA.
I felt it would be a great tribute to build his plane and gift this Spitfire to the RSA which was done about a week ago.
 
Paints used were all Tamiya acrylics, Roundels, codes and serials were made at home and sprayed.
It was my first time trying out paint masks and I must admit, I am sold on them. Going to try and do more masks in the future.
I kind of kept the weathering to a minimum, there is some dirt marks etc on the wings, but you can't really see them in the photos.
 
Anyway hope you all like it.
 
Cheers
 
Mike
 
 

KUROK, yes! This was first thing i checked after taking sprues from the box 

Wow awesome work!  Exciting project as well!
 
Question:  Is one wing longer than the other?  I think that is how Macchi dealt with torque rather than offset the vertical tail.
 

OK, mostly all painted, still have to paint the black ring around the nose, then ready for markings.
So, as I said earlier, this one will be a post war a/c in the markings of 21 Squadron stationed at
Gutersloh, Germany until November 1947 as part of the British Air Forces of Occupation (BAFO).
This is a photo I first saw in a 1982 issue of Scale Aircraft Modeling Sept. volume 4 number 12.
 

 
Working out alright so far, no major issues, kinda tedious making the camo masks as I had to scan and resize
the illustrations in Aero Details book , then cut them out with an exacto. I know they're available AM but I decided to
go the cheapo route.
 

 

 

 
I'll be using 'some' kit decals and some painted and cut on the Cameo and some from my Alps.
Thanks for checkin' in.

astonishing progress Jay - really enjoying this come together and you pushing the boundaries
 
As you did ask, I will give my humble opinion... personally, I don't think it will be possible to get the optical clarity as high as it should be. I know you will give it your best shot and i do hope I am proven wrong, but I just can't see it being possible given the materials at work and the inherent distortion in creation by layers
 
I think you have fab master, and get the God of vacforming (Tigger) to pull you a couple - he does amazing work and has just done my P39 which has come out better than I could have hoped for
 
As I say, I hope I am wrong
 
Peter

Today was a day that I have been waiting for, and it had me on edge.  Today was the day where I finally would 3D print my first transparency for the P-51 - the Malcolm hood.  Recall the test part in grey resin turned out OK, and I learned a bit from it:
 

 
So I incorporated what I had learned, and I thought I was ready a couple days ago, but then OBG informed me that I might have the forward edge configured wrongly - it isn't supposed to butt up against the windshield frame as I have it; rather it slips into a slot on that frame.  What???  This picture gives a clue:
 

 
The clue is that the aft frame of the windshield looks wider than normal.   Look at the drawing:
 
 
 
So, it appears that part of the Malcolm hood modification includes a widened retainer strip over the aft frame, like this:
 
 
 
That is a cross-section through the windshield aft frame.  The red is the extension of the retainer strip.  It and the existing aft pointing flange on the extruded section that is the aft frame creates a slot for the Malcolm hood's front lip to slide into when closed.  The blue is the hood lip. 
 
I am sorry if I lost some of you with my less than excellent description, but suffice it to say it was back to the drawing board with the Malcolm Hood.  I deleted the heavy bead on the forward edge, and replaced it with a thinner extension that fits into the slot as shown above.  Here:
 
    
 
A close-up:
 

 
Actually there is a bulb seal that is crammed in there as well, but I am not going to go that far.  What you see there, I am pretty certain, is pretty much how it really is.  You can see that I have had to resort to a good bit of educated guesswork to produce a Malcolm hood.  Glad I have LSP friends who supplied so many great photos!  And thanks OBG for noticing that error.
 
And with that change accomplished, it was time to see if I could print up a hood detail in clear resin.  Results after nearly 6 hours (exposure time for the clear resin is more than for the grey resin):
 

 
I did two - one right side up, one upside down.  The one on the left turned out a bit better, but both are pretty rough.  Not real "transparent".  However, the shape is good.  I used the one on the right as a test part, post curing it and then sanding the devil out of it, and applying a car headlight glass restorer kit to it to try to get it transparent.  After a fair amount of work, I got this:
 

 
Before/after:
 
 

 
That is after a dip in Future.  You can see that it still needs a bit of work on the texture.  But folks - this appears to be a major victory.  Shape is good.  Almost no cloudiness.  No discoloration.  So now I get to really do a first class sanding and buffing job on the other (better) part.  And hopefully have a clearer more smooth end product.  If I am disappointed with it, I think I will tweak a couple of dials on the Elegoo, redo it, and see if it doesn't improve the print.  I would much rather 3D print my transparencies than vac form them, if I can get good quality.  I hope you all agree; tell me if you do not.
 
Now I have some confidence that I can create 3D printed transparencies for every window in the cockpit, and other parts too (like the landing light). 
 
SH!! 
 
Stay tuned for more coming soon.             

Engine and cockpit is ready. Added cables, some bigger/smaller containers, brown oil tank, gun belts to make ammo compartment more busy. Provided 3D decal has weak glue so I used CA on edges to prevent slipping. Part 5 was missing in instruction it should be placed under right side of instrument panel.





I used different washes - brown, black, engine grease on engine. Koh I Noor crayons for small scratches.

Lately I'm using two types of glue for canopies.
One is Gorilla Glue Clear.  It is very strong and has a lot of working time.  It dries to the hardness of hard rubber.  It is very strong and can etch plastic so I make sure to wipe off excess but like I said you have plenty of working time for this.
 
Another one I'm using is a UV cure glue I got on Amazon...some off-brand.  It is expensive but you don't need a lot for each model application in general.
I it also strong and  you don't have to worry about fogging like superglue.

The Cockpit will be painted all in black 

 
 
The future is 3D Printing 
 

 

Good morning Gents 
 
 
thanks for the friendly comment , 
here some Pics of the Seat and Cockpit to show the details 
 
Mr. Surfacer 1200 for Priming 
 

Fits perfect…
 
 
both guys together….l
 

 
Best Regards 
 
Bekim 
 
 
 

The Seat is a modified Aces II seat from Aires ….

She's a beauty already!

Taking some shape ...
 

 
Got the canopy masks vectorized and resized. Fit is very good.
Shouldn't be too long now.

Hi there,
brief update for the weekend, wheel bays have been primed, base coated, weathered and detail painted.
Not the most exciting update but well, you know, the fact that the build is still going on is already a victory to me 
 
 
 
 
I will be on busyness trip most of next week so I do not expect much progress unfortunatly 
Thanks again for following and for your interest