BiggTim

I am not well versed in the manliest of aircraft scales, so I am only aware of the 1/24 Stuka wheels that AMS produced. Which, of course, I can now supply you with if you should need them! Tim

Odd. How about now? https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Mm4jB1q3pwksECSnktIumYPct_wSkMMq/view?usp=sharing

I'm always willing to take a look at any prospective projects. The worst that could happen is that it either exceeds my abilities, or my spare time, and I pass on it. Feel free to send me what you have, and I will look into it. Tim bnbresindesign@gmail.com

Thanks for the kind words, Dennis! These are available at 10 USD per set of 5 (though as Dennis can attest, I will include some spares in case of breakage). I also have the larger 100 round style available at 13 USD per set of 5. I will include some photos when I get home from the regular job today or tomorrow. Tim bnbresindesign@gmail.com

Boy that is some nice work!!

Nice one!!! Great looking finish!!

Small block Chevys rule!!!!

I detect a theme here - "I USED TO own". I've had mine since I was 16, and I will have it when I die. At the rate I'm going, I may not get it drivable before that, but I'll still own it.

Nice!

Someday, I will actually build a model of my car. Maybe after I finish building the real car, which will look roughly like this when done: I have a resin body waiting in the stash....

For landing gear, I would definitely suggest epoxy very carefully, and sparingly, applied.

Brass to brass? Solder, hands down. I know that's not what you asked! In both cases, if you want it to be tough, then fast-cure epoxy, such as J-B quick or standard 5-minute epoxy (like the type made by Bob Smith). Cons: it's messy and hard to control, and it's a bit slower. Truth is, I tend to use thin or thick CA more than anything, with pretty decent results. The trick is to sand the surfaces of the PE slightly with some fine sandpaper first, and spray them with accelerator before applying the CA. It seems to do a pretty good job in most situations, providing the parts will not have to hold a lot of weight, or withstand much force. Just my 2 cents. T

Well I learned something new last evening. I've been printing my tiny high-detail stuff (ammo cans, antennas, etc.) using either standard or the new high-speed resin made for this printer, with excellent results. Those resins are pretty tough, but tend to be bit on the brittle side when used for very thin parts. So I tried using a tougher "ABS-Like" resin last night to print some small stuff. Total failure. It apparently just isn't suitable for that kind of thing, so I'll be going back to the other stuff for production printing, though I will continue to experiment with other types as time and money permit. Tim

Like I said, I have had no issues with anything not sticking to resin thus far, including different types of paint. That said, I do typically use lacquer primers and enamels paints, so my others may have more experience with it.

Good question. I've never tried acrylic filler on resin, but stuff like Tamiya putty and most other types adhere to it quite well, so I'd be interested to hear your results. Tim

Looking really good, my friend!!

The little filters help a LOT, but I also keep the printer close to (or IN) my paint booth and run the exhaust fan. The grey resins don't stink too bad, but the translucent ones stink a lot more.

It already has....

Jumpei is an awesome guy! I've been in contact with him and I'm using his files to upgrade the AMS F4U-5N conversion, which is about 50% done. Tim

Looking good buddy! As you know, I can't show off the stuff I've been printing very easily, since it's so damn small I can't even photograph it well!! The ammo cans for Dennis turned out great, but I need to tweak the model a bit and print some samples for him. I did buy the Jeep model files, so I'll be printing that as soon as a I get them all scaled properly. It's about 50 parts, so that could take a bit of doing. The model designer has given me permission to sell them if it prints at 1/32 well. I'm gonna be unable to work on anything this weekend, and I kind of regret making plans now. I want to stay home and play with the printer some more!!

Hi Bill, Of the ones I've tried, only Fusion 360 and Sketchup have free versions that I am aware of. Of the paid ones, Rhino is the probably the best deal, as it is a buy-it-once-for-life license for around 500 bucks (if I read it correctly - someone please correct me if I'm wrong) and I found it pretty easy to learn. Most of the others are yearly subscriptions, including the paid versions of Fusion and Sketchup. If you want a taste of 3D modeling that's easy to learn and free, try Sketchup. It stores all your models in the cloud, or you can download them. Here is a project I've been working on using it: It is surprisingly versatile, but does not handle complex or curvy shapes super well. If you try that and like it, or if you already have 3D modeling experience, then go directly to Fusion. It's much harder to learn, but the Youtube tutorials are excellent. This guy is quite good - https://www.youtube.com/@ProductDesignOnline, as is this guy - https://www.youtube.com/@cadcamstuff. Tim

Mine just shipped!!!

I am also a subscriber to Aircorps Library because of Peter, and it is incredibly cool! I would agree that Peter's work with them is probably a huge reason for this new shift toward people like us! Tim

I'd be interested in trying some of your resin settings if you feel like sharing. I am upgrading to an Anycubic Mono M5s that should ship any day now, and I'd like to see what settings other people are using for them. Tim

I stand corrected, thank you. But I don't think I like that practice very much.