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mhorina

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Everything posted by mhorina

  1. Bald Eagle, Why is that a 'stupid question' ? Mike Horina
  2. Sorry I have no pictures to show how it was done. I did it soon after the Revell 109 kit was released. It would be maybe 10 years ago and I lost my computer that had my hobby stuff on it. At one time I thought I had outlined it on the LSP site. Long time back I did a Croatian 109 using this to make Black 4. I think there was some discussion on this site at the time. Sorry I can't help more. It is really not that hard if you study the 2 kits with the thought of doing it. Mike Horina
  3. I believe I used the complete Revell fuselage . I think ,if I remember correctly , you can use either kits rudders with the Revell fin . Not sure which of the rudders I used' Mike Horina
  4. It can be done. I have done it at least twice. I lost most of my hobby info about 5 months ago .It is really simple. Both kits can be cut on the 1st panel line that that is behind the cockpit and is the 1st line that clears the rear of the wings. There is a panel line that is under the rear of the cockpit that can be also removed that ends at that panel line I just mentioned. Depending on which cockpit you want to use. I used the Hasegawa front and cut the rear cockpit panel from it .That way using the Revell back panel gives you a edge to strengthen the panels. That way you have more holding the fuselage instead of just a vertical line. If you want to use the rear of the cockpit from the Revell kit don't cut it from the fuselage. HTH Mike Horina
  5. Sorry to be late. I got the conversion set from Harold today. I would like a set of your decals also or 2 sets if that. would help .Please let me know if they will be available. I did get the canopy but not the decals I hope you can help.Thank you Mike Horina
  6. Very nice conversion work in this build Thank you for sharing with us. Was there anything more about getting decals for this conversion ? Mike Horina
  7. I'd be interested depending on how much the conversion set costs.Is there an article or works in progress to see the conversion? Is one to contact Harold for this info ? Mike Horina
  8. The stub launchers In the Corsair kit are not the same as those used on the USAAF P-51s. I just looked in the Tamiya 1-D kit box. Mike Horina
  9. Thanks D, and Jennings As far as the Tamiya's call, the canopies I would say to use M for any models you do with out the fillet. N for those with the fillet and use P for models like Mrs Bonnie the poster plane on the Tamiya P-51D/K release. Thanks for the link D, made it very clear as to which Tamiya canopy to use for one's model. Mike
  10. Thanks Mike, The Tamiya instructions for the Pacific Theater release used the M canopy, which was used for the -5 filletless option in the original release. And then uses that for 2 options in the Pacific Theater and doesn't use the P canopy option at all in the PT release. Whereas in the first release it uses all 3 canopies that are in the box. Using the M canopy for the filletless option does that indicate it should not be used in the second release as all 3 options have the fillet tail. Thanks for answering Mike Horina
  11. There are 3 canopies in the Tamiya P-51 Mustang 1st and Late War releases identified as M ,N,and P. M appears to be for the initial Mustang D production , and the P appears to be for the Dallas production . When would you use the Tamiya N style canopy for? If it is a true change what production block or date would that style canopy have come into used? TIA Mike Horina
  12. I agree. This should turn out to be a most welcomed and used new section of the site
  13. That is the scheme of the 2nd P-40F that I just finished. Note the short antenna mast. My research showed that it was correct for that aircraft and at the time of those markings. Those markings were use because the New Zealand P-40s that they were flying and fighting with where mark that way. I know it doesn't exist because there are no pictures. You'll all will have have to trust me. Mike Horina
  14. I believe the large P-38 tanks are included in the Hasegawa P-47 kits and the Trumpeter Razorback P-47 kit also has them and may be in the other Trump 47s also. Mike Horina
  15. Vector made a resin WW II engine series that included the P&W R-2800 type B/C (late) . It contains the bolted crankcase. It is Vector # 32-002 Sorry for the error ,corrected by Dave Williams, in my earlier post' Mike Horina
  16. It probably has to do with the decal sheet in the 'M' boxing. Only thing not in any other boxing. Mike Horina
  17. Kevin, Yes I thin Alclad. I use Sunnyside brand Lacquer Thinner that I buy at Ace Hardware. I use it with all the paint I use. I do not do water based paint to spray. I use a very old Passhe 'H' airbrush spraying with CO2 . After I have shakened up the Alclad till it is clear on the bottom of its bottle and have put it in the jar or cup I'll be using I add the LT. Not a lot but more than a drop or 2. I use it on all the Aluminum flavors but some of the transparent types are way to loose and I wouldn't advice trying to add LT to them. ​ Mike Horina
  18. The black stripes on the tail planes are some of the original markings applied to bare metal P-51s. The black stripe was also applied to the tail fin and rudder. Applied because the tail looked similar to 109 tails. These markings had nothing to do with the 'Invasion' markings Mike Horina
  19. Yeah, I went to facebook and I saw his name. I don't know if he designed the stand but I know he was working at a hobby shop and the owner my have helped. He showed me that stand the last time I heard from him Mike.
  20. Hey Brian, The Facebook page for the Kronos Designs item I'm thinking the person there may have died. I dealt with him before but about 2 years ago he was going to do some masks for me and I have not been able to reach him. He also would send me other non modelling e-mails and I have not recieved anything from him in a while now. Find out if your dealing with Paul Grivas or the owner operator of the hobby shop in the facebook site. Let me know. Paul has my decals to make masks for. Thanks Mike Horina
  21. William, Thank you for that. I have most of the products mention in this thread What I was hoping for was how the canopy would handle the buffing and such. I had a bad experience with canopies cracking while trying to clean them up.I have managed to get rid of the seam and have gotten it back to a shiny can opy with no seam. Thanks to all who helped get me through this problem. Mike
  22. Thanks for that technique, Tom. But that is the manufactures seam while making that part. I was surpriced when I looked at the Revell part because there was no seam. I asked the question becauce I would of thaught Tamiya would not have done the canopy that way. The seam is very thin and not very thick. I was more worried about cracking the Tamiya part. But I quess I'll just try to be very careful Mike
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