Bill_S

Ken, I'm good friends with my dentist, too. That lead from x-ray film can come in mighty handy!

I use "bead wire" - it's available at most craft stores. It comes in varying diameters, down to 34 AWG (.006 in, 0.16 mm); I generally go with solid copper - it's easy to cut, and holds it's shape pretty well. I wrap it around drill shanks to get close to any ID I want. It's inexpensive, too.

A great thread to be sure! Quite possibly the rarest of the rare... And some Revell AM decals, too.

I didn't manage to get my hands on the Stuka or Aleutian Tiger until I was an adult. How many sent in that dime? I still have those "Man in Space" booklets around here somewhere, though the Mercury capsule is long gone.

The decals you're after were included with the Takara boxing of Revell's Raiden... In addition to the six "NO STEP" stencils, there are two "STEP" stencils as well.

I don't weigh either, but I do like to cast a single piece of lead instead of dealing with the mess of glue and BBs. It becomes an issue of both weight and shape. The CAD model was only to get a ballpark estimate of how many lead balls to melt. The weight just came along for the ride.

I made a trapezoid from about 100 6mm diameter lead balls that fits nicely between the cockpit floor and the top of the nose gear bay. According to my CAD program, its about 150 grams - a bit over 5 ounces.

I've made custom mixes with these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-x-2-ml-GLASS-STERILISED-REUSABLE-SYRINGE-HYPODERMIC-INTERCHANGEABLE-LABORATORY-/360797091888?_trksid=p2054897.l4276

An intercooler is used between a supercharger and carburetor intake, or between stages of a multi-stage supercharging system. I found this diagram for the Corsair... http://www.enginehistory.org/Installations/F4U.gif

RLM - Cross reference... http://www.rlm.at/download/rlmpdf_e.pdf

Stephen, The Scratchbuilders REX conversion is resin. I picked up mine on auction a few years back; I have no idea how difficult they are to find. The Revell George is the only N1K1 kit, as well. Swallow/Tomy/Doyusha put out a kit of the N1K2 - nice recessed panel lines, with the terrible cockpit. Bill

Kevin, No way will I finish my Tamiya P-51 in time - Please move it to WIP

Future is great stuff; they have changed the packaging - it's now "Pledge Floor Care - with Future Shine". It should be available at your local WalMart.

If only my wallet could keep up with new releases!

Any guesses on how much weight it will take to keep it from sitting on its tail?

Wings nearly finished, too. That middle MG is absent for a reason - I forgot to drill the holes to locate the external fuel tank pylons! [/url]">http:// Somewhere, I picked up this fiber optic attachment for my Mag Light... [/url]">http:// One locating hole is better than none! [/url]">http://

Finally got the fuselage together - some minor filling and sanding of the seams to come. [/url]">http:// [/url]">http:// [/url]">http://

A minor setback this week... I wanted to spray the aluminum framework in the nose before I slapped the fuselage halves together. I figured it would be a good opportunity to try some liquid mask; it was a mistake! Luckily a couple of coats of clear laquer took care of the discoloration. The next set of photos will have the fuselage together...

Alan, Check your email...

Wolf, Your painting skills inspire and amaze...

I've been packing for an impending move, and I came across Finescale Modeler's January 2000 issue. In the "New Products" announcements, there was nothing in 1/32 scale. It's a great time to be a modeler! Bring on that bent winged bird!

Yes...

This is a flow regulator; you can regulate either flow or pressure, but not both. It's no problem putting an additional regulator on the line - just remember that the maximum pressure downstream can be no higher than that set with the regulator closest to the tank.

She's looking great, Aircav!

More progress... Need to finish up the seat and PE belts, then I'll be ready to button up the fuselage... [/url]">http:// [/url]">http:// [/url]">http://