Rick K Posted February 9, 2014 Author Share Posted February 9, 2014 Working on the prop hub base required some modification in order to fit the Hasegawa components. First task is to drill the prop hub plate in order to work with the Hasegawa mount. A hole has to be drilled through. After centering the drill point a 1.10mm bit is used to make the starting hole. After starter hole completed a 5/64 inch (sorry to my metric chaps) bit is hand twisted all the way through. Then a 5/32 inch bit is hand twisted from the rear to a depth of 3mm to accept the Hasegawa rubber plug. Rubber plug ready for insert. Plug nests well into prop hub plate. Test fit to Hasegawa component. Next up will be prop adjustment. I will be using props from Hasegawa FW190 kits as the Planet supplied props are too small when compared to photos of the 190C. The Hasegawa props are more beefy. Jamme, Wurzacher and Lars Befring 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick K Posted February 9, 2014 Author Share Posted February 9, 2014 Cool start,I'll follow with interest. You may as well find interesting this build http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=32182&page=7 That's a beautiful build. Too bad there are no WIP pics. Would love to see pics of the engine, turbo and pit detail. Thanks for sharing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seiran01 Posted February 9, 2014 Share Posted February 9, 2014 Holy cow, that is a nice build! Looking forward to seeing yours reach that point of completion too, Rick, so far it's looking superb. Rick K 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maurice Posted February 9, 2014 Share Posted February 9, 2014 This is great stuff, of a unusual subject and a beautiful aircraft. I'll follow this one. Rick K 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted February 10, 2014 Share Posted February 10, 2014 Championship modelling Rick. Kev Rick K 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BGB Posted February 10, 2014 Share Posted February 10, 2014 Hello Rick, Really good craftsmanship. Cheers Boris Rick K 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scvrobeson Posted February 10, 2014 Share Posted February 10, 2014 This looks like a great start so far Rick! The kit-bashing should get you the best parts to make it a top-notch build. Will be following this one Matt Rick K 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick K Posted March 10, 2014 Author Share Posted March 10, 2014 Thanks for the positive posts guys. Been out of pocket for a while and have not been mining my posts like I should. Hope to be back on the bench very soon. Almost able to sit for more than 30 minutes. And yes! I am going stir crazy! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mal_Belford Posted March 10, 2014 Share Posted March 10, 2014 This looks great Rick. And youre handeling them broken pieces like nothing happened, shure know how to fixem, also love that cocpit of yours, oh dear and that tank and tubing section the one that can be seen from the wheel bay wow, just lovit. This one got to stand on a mirror so all that eyecandy can be seen. Keep em coming. /Mal Rick K 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zero77 Posted March 12, 2014 Share Posted March 12, 2014 (edited) Thanks a lot for that WIP ! I have this conversion in the stash, so every good idea is nice to learn and forsee any problem. And i love the lines of the Kangaroo ! Regarding the radiator, i dont know if it is really a mistake or a lack of detail from Planet models, but maybe a different radiator to fit with the DB603? Edited March 12, 2014 by Zero77 Rick K 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick K Posted March 13, 2014 Author Share Posted March 13, 2014 Thanks a lot for that WIP ! I have this conversion in the stash, so every good idea is nice to learn and forsee any problem. And i love the lines of the Kangaroo ! Regarding the radiator, i dont know if it is really a mistake or a lack of detail from Planet models, but maybe a different radiator to fit with the DB603? Good to know my WIP will be of value. Be sure the donor kit is a 190D. If you use an 190A8 for donor you will not have the options for the engine, engine cowling/radiator. Planet Models show the 190C with guns (MG131 ?) on cowling. All photos I have of the 190C do not show guns. As far as the radiator, the Hasegawa shows more detail and I like the detail with cowling flaps open. Again, my reference photos do not show detail. That said, I take the FICE approach. 100% accurate, most likely not. I'm ok with that. Hope to hit the bench next week and start cranking on this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zero77 Posted March 13, 2014 Share Posted March 13, 2014 I agree, that's impossible to be 100% accurate on a subject with only a very few pictures of poor quality, and no picture at all for the details. For me, this build will be a full freestyle, with just an intent to render what i can see on the pictures. My doner kit is a A8 (or A5, i have both), but i dont care as i think i will use the cowling/radiator straight from the box : it will give me something different beside the other line engine FW. Regarding the engine one can see by the gear door opening, i think i will make the tubing mess from scratch. Anyway it wont be accurate, as the D-9 has a Junker Jumo whereas the C-V18 has a DB603. So that's not a big deal for me. Anyway i keep on watching your build ! Rick K 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick K Posted March 13, 2014 Author Share Posted March 13, 2014 If you go with the A8 or A5 the landing gear bay will be buttoned up and you will not see engine. Unless, you plan some surgery to open up. I'm banking on no one can tell the difference from a Jumo vs DB. This will be our secret, yes? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zero77 Posted March 13, 2014 Share Posted March 13, 2014 For sur e ! And even moreif half hidden deep inside the gear bay ! For the A gear bay, i have an Aires resin D-9 gear bay that i will use my D-9 kit (that i keep to build it as a D-9), so i'll be able to steal her injected open gear bay to use in the C-V18. A kind of three-cards trick ! Rick K 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick K Posted March 21, 2014 Author Share Posted March 21, 2014 Back on the bench after 5 weeks of gnawing at the bit. TKR recovery is going very well and I can finally sit on a chair with knee bent. Time to add some plumbing for the Turbo Super Charger. I am using a D9 as donor kit. The rear of engine will be visible so I need to add plumbing from the turbo charger. Illustration shows a DB engine and the Hasegwa FW190 D9 donor kit offers a Jumo engine. Since only the rear portion of engine will be visible through landing gear bay I can get away with my FICE approach. Illustration credit: Focke-Wulf FW 190, Vol. 1: 1938-1943, Smith/Creek My plan is to soften some plastic tubing via boiling water and bend to fit into engine compartment, Boiling water did not work so I nuked the tube in my microwave for about 2 minutes. Carefully hand bending with tool yielded satisfactory results. Then using a round file I shaped the end to fit on kit plumbing. 1.3mm plastic rod will be used for locator pin. Hole is drilled through firewall and kit plumbing. Locator pin now in position. Test fit looks good. Will enhance part with straps, paint and weather with rest of engine. Yup, close enough. dutik, Wurzacher and Mal_Belford 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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