Where do we begin?

[BiggTim]

It looks like the Anycubic slicing software has improved a bit. I'm still using the one that came with it 4 years ago!! It is truly terrible, but I'm used to it and it works.

[waxdart]

Having only been printing about a month or so, the thing I have noticed is you really need to increase your swear word vocabulary....

[patricksparks]

1 hour ago, BiggTim said:

It looks like the Anycubic slicing software has improved a bit. I'm still using the one that came with it 4 years ago!! It is truly terrible, but I'm used to it and it works.

What's funny I've had My Anycubic for about 2 1/2 years and I had to go on their website and download their older version of the slicer program to get it to work consistently on the machine.... Go figure...

 

Pat

[Maxim61]

I use Microsoft 3D builder to do basic stuff like split a piece or join multiple pieces together. Take my 1/24 LEM. I combined the the two sides and the rear piece of the ascent stage as one piece and printed it as one item. The descent stage is all one piece but was originally 3 pieces. You can also repair a piece in 3D builder automatically. So basically if you had a wing with top and bottom sections you could join them together in 3D builder and create one single wing.

[Ebf2K]

A little late to the discussion here as I've been working on my own 3D projects.  Have completed a lot of WW1 accessories like bombs, aerial torpedo, gun mounts, and am working on a full airplane kit (in 1/72 to start) so hopefully I will be able to help fellow members out.

 

For printers, get the largest one you can afford and have space for, but keep an eye on the resolution.  Doing hard surface models like aircraft is a different challenge than printing minis.  For really detailed parts and minimizing visible printing voxels I recommend getting a printer that has <30 µm voxel size.   I have a Phrozen Mini 8K, and will probably be getting something bigger like the Mighty 8k soon.

 

Not sure if it has been mentioned but getting a wash and cure machine is a great investment.  

 

Biggest challenges / learning curves

1. Research - getting high quality, scale drawings of the parts you want to make can be difficult especially in the WW 1 era I am working on.  Also get your hands on all reference photos and books that you can, download them and organize them.
2. 3D modelling software.  As with many others, Fusion 360 is my choice.  Tons of videos on YouTube to help you out.  Once you get the hang of how to build a 3D object from a 2D sketch it will start to make sense and become easier.  When designing your own 3D parts keep in mind how it will be sliced and printed, too.  For our parts that have details sticking out from many sides you need to be aware of where supports will need to be when designing your parts to minimize supports you need and potential damage to the model when removing supports.  When I designed the aerial torpedo, I wound up making the nose, tail, and main body as 3 separate pieces so I could design the parts without worrying about damage from supports to the shape of the nose and the propellor & fins at the rear.
3. Slicing software.  I am using Chitubox Pro.  Not too expensive for how much use I get out of it, but it sucks that it is a subscription license.  It has more options and an easier to use GUI than Chitubox Free.  Watch some tutorials and go through a lot through trial and error to learn how to adjust the size, shape, and placement of your supports, and troubleshoot printing errors when they happen.  Also consider your layer hight.  I print at .05mm when i am prototyping and .02 for my final prints.  I mostly print in 1/72 for now and to me the extra time it takes to print the smaller layer height is worth it for the extra clarity and less visible voxels.
4. Resin.   It's frustrating and feels like a time sink but spend the effort to dial in your resin settings for your print.    It took me a while to dial in my resin settings but now that it's done, I don't have to worry about it anymore and I get consistently good results.  

[BiggTim]

On 8/17/2023 at 7:27 AM, Ebf2K said:

A little late to the discussion here as I've been working on my own 3D projects.  Have completed a lot of WW1 accessories like bombs, aerial torpedo, gun mounts, and am working on a full airplane kit (in 1/72 to start) so hopefully I will be able to help fellow members out.

 

For printers, get the largest one you can afford and have space for, but keep an eye on the resolution.  Doing hard surface models like aircraft is a different challenge than printing minis.  For really detailed parts and minimizing visible printing voxels I recommend getting a printer that has <30 µm voxel size.   I have a Phrozen Mini 8K, and will probably be getting something bigger like the Mighty 8k soon.

 

Not sure if it has been mentioned but getting a wash and cure machine is a great investment.  

 

Biggest challenges / learning curves

1. Research - getting high quality, scale drawings of the parts you want to make can be difficult especially in the WW 1 era I am working on.  Also get your hands on all reference photos and books that you can, download them and organize them.
2. 3D modelling software.  As with many others, Fusion 360 is my choice.  Tons of videos on YouTube to help you out.  Once you get the hang of how to build a 3D object from a 2D sketch it will start to make sense and become easier.  When designing your own 3D parts keep in mind how it will be sliced and printed, too.  For our parts that have details sticking out from many sides you need to be aware of where supports will need to be when designing your parts to minimize supports you need and potential damage to the model when removing supports.  When I designed the aerial torpedo, I wound up making the nose, tail, and main body as 3 separate pieces so I could design the parts without worrying about damage from supports to the shape of the nose and the propellor & fins at the rear.
3. Slicing software.  I am using Chitubox Pro.  Not too expensive for how much use I get out of it, but it sucks that it is a subscription license.  It has more options and an easier to use GUI than Chitubox Free.  Watch some tutorials and go through a lot through trial and error to learn how to adjust the size, shape, and placement of your supports, and troubleshoot printing errors when they happen.  Also consider your layer hight.  I print at .05mm when i am prototyping and .02 for my final prints.  I mostly print in 1/72 for now and to me the extra time it takes to print the smaller layer height is worth it for the extra clarity and less visible voxels.
4. Resin.   It's frustrating and feels like a time sink but spend the effort to dial in your resin settings for your print.    It took me a while to dial in my resin settings but now that it's done, I don't have to worry about it anymore and I get consistently good results.  

I'd be interested in trying some of your resin settings if you feel like sharing. I am upgrading to an Anycubic Mono M5s that should ship any day now, and I'd like to see what settings other people are using for them.

 

Tim

[Out2gtcha]

On 8/17/2023 at 9:27 AM, Ebf2K said:

A little late to the discussion here as I've been working on my own 3D projects.  Have completed a lot of WW1 accessories like bombs, aerial torpedo, gun mounts, and am working on a full airplane kit (in 1/72 to start) so hopefully I will be able to help fellow members out.

 

For printers, get the largest one you can afford and have space for, but keep an eye on the resolution.  Doing hard surface models like aircraft is a different challenge than printing minis.  For really detailed parts and minimizing visible printing voxels I recommend getting a printer that has <30 µm voxel size.   I have a Phrozen Mini 8K, and will probably be getting something bigger like the Mighty 8k soon.

 

Not sure if it has been mentioned but getting a wash and cure machine is a great investment.  

 

Biggest challenges / learning curves

1. Research - getting high quality, scale drawings of the parts you want to make can be difficult especially in the WW 1 era I am working on.  Also get your hands on all reference photos and books that you can, download them and organize them.
2. 3D modelling software.  As with many others, Fusion 360 is my choice.  Tons of videos on YouTube to help you out.  Once you get the hang of how to build a 3D object from a 2D sketch it will start to make sense and become easier.  When designing your own 3D parts keep in mind how it will be sliced and printed, too.  For our parts that have details sticking out from many sides you need to be aware of where supports will need to be when designing your parts to minimize supports you need and potential damage to the model when removing supports.  When I designed the aerial torpedo, I wound up making the nose, tail, and main body as 3 separate pieces so I could design the parts without worrying about damage from supports to the shape of the nose and the propellor & fins at the rear.
3. Slicing software.  I am using Chitubox Pro.  Not too expensive for how much use I get out of it, but it sucks that it is a subscription license.  It has more options and an easier to use GUI than Chitubox Free.  Watch some tutorials and go through a lot through trial and error to learn how to adjust the size, shape, and placement of your supports, and troubleshoot printing errors when they happen.  Also consider your layer hight.  I print at .05mm when i am prototyping and .02 for my final prints.  I mostly print in 1/72 for now and to me the extra time it takes to print the smaller layer height is worth it for the extra clarity and less visible voxels.
4. Resin.   It's frustrating and feels like a time sink but spend the effort to dial in your resin settings for your print.    It took me a while to dial in my resin settings but now that it's done, I don't have to worry about it anymore and I get consistently good results.  

 

2 hours ago, BiggTim said:

I'd be interested in trying some of your resin settings if you feel like sharing. I am upgrading to an Anycubic Mono M5s that should ship any day now, and I'd like to see what settings other people are using for them.

 

Tim

 

I'd be interested in that too, as my AnyCubic M5 12k just arrived to me from a pre-order I placed back in May.

[Citadelgrad]

On 8/2/2023 at 5:11 PM, BiggTim said:

Strangely enough, I still bounce back and forth between softwares. Here's my take on them:

 

Fusion 360 - hard to learn, but very, very powerful and able to do almost anything. The free "startup" license is a huge plus, though you have to renew it from time to time. It has most of the functionality of the paid license, with only a very few minor things that I haven't missed. If they ever drop the free license, I will drop Fusion, as it's way too expensive otherwise. My favorite Youtube channel for Fusion tutorials is https://www.youtube.com/@ProductDesignOnline

 

Rhino - I purposely tried to use the Rhino trial for the first time to do a little project without watching any tutorials so I could see how intuitive it was. I was able to jump in and do what I needed without any major help at all. Unfortunately, the STL files I exported had serious issues when I tried to print them, because even though the mesh looked good in Rhino, it was not completely closed. I had to actually open it in Fusion to discover the issue, which was apparent instantly in Fusion. I wound up modeling the same thing in Fusion, and it worked without a hitch. So, maybe it was me, maybe it was Rhino, but that was my experience with it. It does NOT have a free license, but the professional license is reasonably priced and is a lifetime purchase, so it would be my next choice if Fusion is on longer available.

 

Sketchup - yes, I said it. Sketchup is a toy compared to the others, but it's really simple to learn and use, and can do a lot more than most people give it credit for. It's also has a free version that can export to STL, but the difference between the free version and the pro version (which is not horribly priced) are pretty big. For basic shapes, you can crank stuff out wicked fast in SKP and it doesn't require a screaming PC either. I did those revetment walls recently in it just to see if I could, and it worked great. If you're just testing the water, I'd highly suggest giving it a shot.

 

Form-It - This is Autodesk's version of Sketchup. I have it at work just because it comes with our Revit license package, so I tried it. It's not as intuitive as Sketchup or Rhino (which is typical of most Autodesk software) but it can do a lot. However, with lots of better options, I dropped this one pretty quickly.

 

Revit - This one only applies to you if you happen to have it for work (which I do), since it's horrendously expensive. The Revit Architecture version I use is crazy powerful, so I tried modeling a few things in it that were not architecture related, and found that it was surprisingly versatile, and it can export to STL. I have yet to 3D print anything from it, but someday I will. 

 

So, my number 1 is Fusion 360 startup license. Use the tutorials I linked above. If you're really struggling, do the Rhino free trial, but remember it only lasts 90 days. If you just want to tinker with something easy so you can try our your printer, try Sketchup free version. 

 

Good luck!

T

 

Which of these are free versus pay?  I see you mentioned there is a free fusion 360 version.  Ive also heard about Moment of Inspiration, which is a couple hundred bucks. 
 

I know nothing about any of them, and i dont mind paying for a program, id just like to avoid buying 2 or 3 before i find what i need. 
 

thanks

 

Bill

[BiggTim]

On 8/29/2023 at 3:46 PM, Out2gtcha said:

 

 

I'd be interested in that too, as my AnyCubic M5 12k just arrived to me from a pre-order I placed back in May.

Mine just shipped!!!

[BiggTim]

16 hours ago, Citadelgrad said:

Which of these are free versus pay?  I see you mentioned there is a free fusion 360 version.  Ive also heard about Moment of Inspiration, which is a couple hundred bucks. 
 

I know nothing about any of them, and i dont mind paying for a program, id just like to avoid buying 2 or 3 before i find what i need. 
 

thanks

 

Bill

Hi Bill,

Of the ones I've tried, only Fusion 360 and Sketchup have free versions that I am aware of. Of the paid ones, Rhino is the probably the best deal, as it is a buy-it-once-for-life license for around 500 bucks (if I read it correctly - someone please correct me if I'm wrong) and I found it pretty easy to learn. Most of the others are yearly subscriptions, including the paid versions of Fusion and Sketchup. 

 

If you want a taste of 3D modeling that's easy to learn and free, try Sketchup. It stores all your models in the cloud, or you can download them. Here is a project I've been working on using it:

It is surprisingly versatile, but does not handle complex or curvy shapes super well.

 

If you try that and like it, or if you already have 3D modeling experience, then go directly to Fusion. It's much harder to learn, but the Youtube tutorials are excellent. This guy is quite good - https://www.youtube.com/@ProductDesignOnline, as is this guy - https://www.youtube.com/@cadcamstuff.

 

Tim

Edited September 2, 2023 by BiggTim

[Maxim61]

On 8/30/2023 at 6:03 AM, BiggTim said:

I'd be interested in trying some of your resin settings if you feel like sharing. I am upgrading to an Anycubic Mono M5s that should ship any day now, and I'd like to see what settings other people are using for them.

 

Tim

Hey Tim, as long as you have the same printer the resin settings will work. Remember ambient temp will play an important piece as well. Buy the biggest resin printer you can as you will outgrow it.

[Maxim61]

On 8/18/2023 at 12:27 AM, Ebf2K said:

A little late to the discussion here as I've been working on my own 3D projects.  Have completed a lot of WW1 accessories like bombs, aerial torpedo, gun mounts, and am working on a full airplane kit (in 1/72 to start) so hopefully I will be able to help fellow members out.

 

For printers, get the largest one you can afford and have space for, but keep an eye on the resolution.  Doing hard surface models like aircraft is a different challenge than printing minis.  For really detailed parts and minimizing visible printing voxels I recommend getting a printer that has <30 µm voxel size.   I have a Phrozen Mini 8K, and will probably be getting something bigger like the Mighty 8k soon.

 

Not sure if it has been mentioned but getting a wash and cure machine is a great investment.  

 

Biggest challenges / learning curves

1. Research - getting high quality, scale drawings of the parts you want to make can be difficult especially in the WW 1 era I am working on.  Also get your hands on all reference photos and books that you can, download them and organize them.
2. 3D modelling software.  As with many others, Fusion 360 is my choice.  Tons of videos on YouTube to help you out.  Once you get the hang of how to build a 3D object from a 2D sketch it will start to make sense and become easier.  When designing your own 3D parts keep in mind how it will be sliced and printed, too.  For our parts that have details sticking out from many sides you need to be aware of where supports will need to be when designing your parts to minimize supports you need and potential damage to the model when removing supports.  When I designed the aerial torpedo, I wound up making the nose, tail, and main body as 3 separate pieces so I could design the parts without worrying about damage from supports to the shape of the nose and the propellor & fins at the rear.
3. Slicing software.  I am using Chitubox Pro.  Not too expensive for how much use I get out of it, but it sucks that it is a subscription license.  It has more options and an easier to use GUI than Chitubox Free.  Watch some tutorials and go through a lot through trial and error to learn how to adjust the size, shape, and placement of your supports, and troubleshoot printing errors when they happen.  Also consider your layer hight.  I print at .05mm when i am prototyping and .02 for my final prints.  I mostly print in 1/72 for now and to me the extra time it takes to print the smaller layer height is worth it for the extra clarity and less visible voxels.
4. Resin.   It's frustrating and feels like a time sink but spend the effort to dial in your resin settings for your print.    It took me a while to dial in my resin settings but now that it's done, I don't have to worry about it anymore and I get consistently good results.  

Agree with your points. Fusion 360 is the best and if you are only going to learn one piece of software, that's the one to learn. I use Lychee slicer paid version and like it much better than Chitubox but each to his own.  One other thing to mention is room temp, Resin does not like cold environments. You need at least 75F to print or you'll need to heat the resin up. For those in hotter climates, I have printed at 110F and no problems at all. Once you dial in your resin the rest is easy.

[Maxim61]

Since I've been 3D printing for some time and I read many are about to get their first printer, here's a couple of helpful hints when setting the printer up.

• Make sure you use a screen protector under the VAT for any FEP rupture. If you don't use one you could be looking  for a replacement screen pretty quick.
• Spare parts: Spare screen protector and a spare FEP will keep you printing.
• Ensure you level the machine on the bench top. Then level the printing plate to the screen.
• Don't use anything like paper towel to wipe the FEP with, it will scratch it. I use a microfiber cloth when I must.
• I use only IPA to wash the FEP and resin tank.
• If a print sticks to the FEP, drain and strain the resin, fill the tray with IPA and the resin piece will float off overnight. If you use force you'll tear the FEP. Clean and then refill the tray.
• Climate: Resin does not like cold climates and needs to be a t least 75F to print.The hotter the better. If your printing in a cold climate during winter etc you'll have to warm the room or the resin or both. I print in the garage and winter temps get pretty low. I use a home brewing heater belt and temp controller that wraps around the resin tray and warms up the resin. I then throw a  emergency Mylar blanket over it while it's printing to keep the heat in. I've printed at 110F ambient with no issues.
• When dialing in your resin settings the part where most people get it wrong is the burn in rate and lift an retract rates.

The setup will take some time to get it just right.

• Burn in: Are the number of layers and exposure time for the raft that your supports will attach to to hold your part. Heavy parts need more layers and burn in time. For example I use: 5 layers at a 20 second burn it time. I do print big heavy parts. Over 1 kilogram for my 1/24 Service Module.
• Normal layers I test print at 0.05mm and then print at 0.02 which gives much better detail but takes forever to print large pieces.
• Exposure times: This is the time the UV light remains on. I use 2.3 seconds but yours will vary with different resin etc.
• Lift and retract speeds. Each are in two stages. The lifting stage is two parts, first as it pulls away from the FEP as it has just printed a layer. You want to go slow here. The second stage as the build-plate lifts further up. you can speed this up. The Retract stage is opposite, the build-plate is coming back down to the FEP to print another layer. You can go fast here and then you slow it down as it nears the FEP. I use the same setting as the lift speed when close to the FEP. For example my lift speed is 45mm a minute for 5 mm to pull the layer off the FEP  and then 240mm minute. My retract is opposite, 240 mm a minute and then 45mm a minute once it gets within 5 mm of the FEP.
• It's very important you don't rush your lift and retract speeds. This causes many problems  as people try and rush the printing stage. 

 

That's some of the basics and I hope this helps people out. Oh, one more thing, find a resin that does not stink.  I'm not affiliated with Siraya in any way but I found their resin to be some of the best and I don't smell the resin at all. The wife has never complained about the resin stinking the house or garage out. Remember, happy wife, happy life etc. I use their ABS like grey fast cure resin and have had great results with it.

 

May I suggest to the mods that perhaps a dedicated section in the forums for 3D printing may be a good idea so we can all discuss and have once place where all the hints and tips will sit for future reference?

Edited September 3, 2023 by Maxim61

[LSP_Kevin]

1 hour ago, Maxim61 said:

May I suggest to the mods that perhaps a dedicated section in the forums for 3D printing may be a good idea so we can all discuss and have once place where all the hints and tips will sit for future reference?

 

Where is it that you think this thread is?

 

 

Kev

[Maxim61]

18 hours ago, LSP_Kevin said:

 

Where is it that you think this thread is?

 

 

Kev

 Sorry Kev, couldn't see it for looking! Apologizes.