bsarnoffca Posted March 27, 2006 Share Posted March 27, 2006 The interior looks just great. Looking forward to the exterior paint. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DMurph Posted March 28, 2006 Share Posted March 28, 2006 Chris can't believe how fast you build! But the stuka is looking great. Cheers Murph... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Haggis Posted March 28, 2006 Share Posted March 28, 2006 Looking really good mate. I think the circuler jobby is a DF (Direction Finding) device. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bcauchi Posted March 28, 2006 Share Posted March 28, 2006 Chris, seems like I've been missing out on this thread. It looks fantastic, simply great. Love the work on the pit. Well done as usual. You have really mastered painting details and weathering. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AngoMango Posted March 28, 2006 Share Posted March 28, 2006 Chris, superb work as usual mate. I'm sure I've asked you this 57 times, but what is your weathering/washing recipe? It always looks so realistic and brings out the detail nicely. Any info would be great! Keep up the great work. Cheers Ango. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Hannover - Germany Posted March 28, 2006 Author Share Posted March 28, 2006 Thanks much mates! Ango,i don't mind, and even if you ask me 67 times... First i painted all in RLM 66. Then i used a darkened RLM 66 (added a few drops of black) and did the shading around the ribs, electric boxes and so on. Mostly i did it under the ribs and boxes. Last airbrush step was, to lighten up all details which are raised with some off white or darkened white. These are my first 3 airbrush steps. This is followed by a drybrush with a light grey. When it is dry, i covered it with FUTURE. This is also dry after 20 minutes and i applyed an il wash with burned umber and burend sienna. This takes the longest drying time. I use to do this as the last step of the session in the evening and it should be dry after 24 houres. So the first step in my next session is, to cover all with a semi gloss varnish. That's all. The very last step was to paint the little knobs and levers.Hope that helps.Cheers mates,Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seanrgb Posted March 28, 2006 Share Posted March 28, 2006 Beautiful work Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Klaus H Posted March 28, 2006 Share Posted March 28, 2006 your combination of quality and speed is stunnning. a pleasure to watch. klaus Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Hannover - Germany Posted March 29, 2006 Author Share Posted March 29, 2006 Thanks Sean & Klaus Cheers, Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Vincent Posted March 29, 2006 Share Posted March 29, 2006 I suppose since it is a preserved aircraft it could have been re-painted, but all of the wiring looks like it is insulated to me, and there are no traces of yellow despite the worn appearance of it all. I hope this doesnt create more questions than they answer! Hi Jay, nice picture. You are right, they are insulated. Those wires are also covered with a protective metal braiding (a bit like a braided airbrush hose, only that it is metal insted of nylon)- you can see that in the picture. That was like an "armour" in order to prevent snagging/ripping in the heat of the battle. The same kind of cables are used on the right side of the Bf109 cockpit - photos of the right side of the 109 in the Aero Detail book or Verlinden Lock On show it in a clearer manner. In my opinion, the use of yellow for all Luftwaffe cables is a bit wrong. Many pictures of the real thing show red, white and blue insulation as well as yellow. One should rely on photos for this - there is no rule. I also saw many pictures of models on the internet where the model builder went "yellow happy" and painted every cable and pipe yellow, including pipes for compressed air (should be blue), oil (should be brown), coolant (should be green) and instrument cables/hoses/conduits (should be black rubber). Nice Stuka Chris - you are doing a great job. I can't wait until Hasegawa release the D and then I will bite too. Radu Hi Radub German wiring was very consistant : Signal wires : yellow Positive 24v wires : Red Ground retun wires : black Radio signals : Blue Use of braided wiring was fairly limited to specific area and signal (on the 109 for instance, the braided wires on the right hand side are protected because of the large number of postive 24v grouped at the same location). In that sense, the yellow wiring was the most common. The yellow color came from the coton coating wire impregnated with fire retardant (yellow). The wire color was actually meaningless (apart from Red, Black and Blue) and each wire was numbered at both end with an embossed lead label. Hope this clarifies a bit Vincent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alaninaustria Posted March 29, 2006 Share Posted March 29, 2006 Wow! Chris you are fast.. and good! This is coming along nicely! I am plugging away at mine so slowly.... Keep up the good work! Cheers Alan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Hannover - Germany Posted March 29, 2006 Author Share Posted March 29, 2006 Thanks Alan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeMaben Posted March 29, 2006 Share Posted March 29, 2006 Hope this clarifies a bit Vincent Thanks Vincent. M M ...does help clarify. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marcel_bcn Posted March 29, 2006 Share Posted March 29, 2006 Chris, Thanks so much, you've been my teacher and you gave me lots of good ideas during these months building the Trumpeter Avenger!! Vielen dank, Marcel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Hannover - Germany Posted March 29, 2006 Author Share Posted March 29, 2006 Hi Marcel,but i've done nothing.. My pleasure, if there are any questions, drop me an e-mail or PM. Will help you if i can.Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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