PietvWdV Posted March 22, 2006 Share Posted March 22, 2006 Thanx for the tip on how to hold the card still. Simple stoopid (say ME this time hitting MY head!) Any tips on how to cut perfect squares from a flat strip of plastic? By Johnson's' Klear do you mean Future? Also, the MekPak, is it a vulcanising glue (I think this is the right word...) iow, does it "melt" the plastic. And if so, do you sometimes use this quality to "mold" parts together with some pressure? Sorry for all the silly questions, but believe me, your answers are like going to modeling school for me and I am sure a lot of others.I appreciate it all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Pratt Posted March 22, 2006 Share Posted March 22, 2006 Radu-is MDC going to do this canopy part also?I'm sure you have a bunch of us thinking that maybe you can make a mold of this one...cheers...Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Radub Posted March 22, 2006 Author Share Posted March 22, 2006 Thanks Klaus H and Bsarnoffca for the kind words. Piet, It took a lot of attempts until I got the squares right. I simply drew the lines and cut along them. There is no secret other than a lot of practice and a good deal of luck. Yes, by Klear I mean Future. It is quite versatile and strong. I use it regularly to glue clear parts in place. MekPak is a liquid, it literally has the consistency of water and evaporates at a very fast rate. I usually put the parts together and run a litle bit of MekPak along the joint with a fine brush. Capilarity does the rest - it melts the contact areas and joins them, like welding. If you use to much, it will melt or distort the parts with time. It must be used sparingly. It can also etch the surface of the plastic if allowed to pool. It is not a strong glue - I mean if the parts to be glued are under pressure or tension, they will come apart with time. It is perfect for topical, no-load gluing. You will need to experiment and find what works and what does not. I read on other boards (HS or ARC) that some people can get it in gallon size containers - I believe it also has some pharmaceutical uses. The brand I use is Slaters MekPak and I usually buy it from Aeroclub in the UK at the IPMS UK in Telford . I also bought a bottle from Hannants in Colindale two weeks ago. They don' t have it on their website but they definitely have it in that shop. Alternatively, you can use Tenax, but I find it way too "hot." I believe that Tamiya makes an extra thin glue that is similar to MekPak. HTH Radu Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Radub Posted March 22, 2006 Author Share Posted March 22, 2006 Radu-is MDC going to do this canopy part also?I'm sure you have a bunch of us thinking that maybe you can make a mold of this one...cheers...Dave Hi Dave, I doubt very much that this could be cast in resin or even metal. It is extremely flimsy in plastic. It will be even more fragile in resin. The main parts are made of 0.3 mm plasticard - that is as thick as three sheets of printer paper. I think that the ideal medium for this would be photoetch. I may do the drawings for that and see if I can get anyone to etch it for me. Radu Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PietvWdV Posted March 22, 2006 Share Posted March 22, 2006 Thanx Radu. I have the Tamiya Extra Thin cement (with the green top). Can someone who has that and also Mekpak Make a comparison for us? What do you clean your brush with after using glue on it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Radub Posted March 22, 2006 Author Share Posted March 22, 2006 What do you clean your brush with after using glue on it? MekPak leaves no residue. There is nothing left on the brush to clean - it all evaporates. Radu Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeMaben Posted March 22, 2006 Share Posted March 22, 2006 Another question. I see you filled in the antenae lead in on the fuselage rear of the G-4. It moves up and forward for the G-2 right? What will the new lead in point look like? Just a hole, or will it be a little panel or something? Here's a shot Piet. M M ...hth Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattlow Posted March 23, 2006 Share Posted March 23, 2006 Hi Radu Lovely work on the canopy, it adresses something which is often these days the only weak point on otherwise very well detailed builds. It also surpasses the use of vacform canopies (in my view) in that it acurately reflects the actual structure - i.e. thin glazing but often 'chunky' framing. A very useful bit of trailblazing. Can you show how the right side of the canopy lower framing is shaped to allow canopy to open & close? I assume there must be some sort of curvature to lower frame to avoid canopy frame fouling on right hand cockpit sill. Does this make sense? Cheers Matt Low Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Radub Posted March 23, 2006 Author Share Posted March 23, 2006 Thanks Matt, I know exaclty what you mean. The right bottom side is not rounded. The hinge pins are very close to the edge and the holes that they pivot in are a little larger than the pins, which allows for a bit of "play". The canopy is slighlty stiff when moving, but not too much. I do not mind that as I do not plan to flip it open or closed too often. HTh Radu Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alaninaustria Posted March 23, 2006 Share Posted March 23, 2006 Radub.... I have had to visit this work a few times today just to admire the work and to re-confirm to myself that something like this is possible!! I love it! Cheers Alan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattlow Posted March 23, 2006 Share Posted March 23, 2006 Thanks Radu This does help, I'm relieved that you understood what I meant! Do you know if that's how the real thing worked? Rarely see the canopy from the non-opening side. Cheers Matt Low Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Radub Posted March 23, 2006 Author Share Posted March 23, 2006 Hi Matt, The real thing worked slightly differently. The hole for the pins was tight in order to eliminate any chances of play/vibrations. On th ereal thing, there is a slight gap at the bottom of the right side of the canopy that allows it to swing open. That gap is sealed by a rubber gasket. I went for a compromise solution (the slightly larger hole) - often it is hard to replicate real life features in scale. HTH Radu Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Radub Posted March 26, 2006 Author Share Posted March 26, 2006 Here are some photos of the wheel wells after painting and weathering. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Radub Posted March 26, 2006 Author Share Posted March 26, 2006 Another angle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Radub Posted March 26, 2006 Author Share Posted March 26, 2006 Another angle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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