Another Hasegawa T bolt Bubbletop, my first LSP. November 12, 2022, It is DONE at last!!!!!!!!

[STM]

A great job on the engine but those are the wrong magnetos. If you look at your reference photo, which is correct for the T-bolt, the R-2800 has the "cow plop" magnetos. These version in the kit were normally seen on Vought F4U Corsairs. Don't feel bad, most manufacturers don't always do their research. I am fighting bad research right now on Trumpeter's 1/32 SBD-5 Dauntless. 

[bdthoresen]

56 minutes ago, Citadelgrad said:

I am going to apply decals, everything on the model is paint at this point.  One large kill marking decal, and hgw transfers, and weathering. 

Ok, then I would wet sand out any other blemishes you find, and ditch the alclad. Get some of the Gunze Aqueous I mentioned, use Mr. Leveling Thinner, and shoot a final gloss clear. Then decal. Then shoot another gloss sealing coat over everything. Then you can apply enamel washes, stains, etc. Then a flat clear or semi-gloss, depending on your taste. I think you will like the results. I ended up doing this on a model I had problems with Alclad clear, and it saved the day. I never turned back after that. Being that the Aqueous clear is water based, it did not react with the Alclad underneath, even using Mr. Color Leveling Thinner. And crank up your air pressure! Good Luck, she will be a great model when you are finished!

 

Thor  

[Woody V]

6 hours ago, Citadelgrad said:

It's an iwata hp cs, .35mm

 

According to the Iwata websiite optimum air pressure should be between 25 to 35 psi which is a lot! 

[Citadelgrad]

11 minutes ago, Archer Fine Transfers said:

 

According to the Iwata websiite optimum air pressure should be between 25 to 35 psi which is a lot! 

As Thor points out, that's a crazy high amount of air pressure.  I don't think ive ever sprayed anything on this plane above 20 psi.  Maybe my swag is off?

 

I'm going to come up with a paint mule.  This is literally my first LSP since the early 1980s.  I have some tanks I built, but they came out well, so I don't have anything sitting around that I can just hit with paint. 

 

I need some unneeded plastic to play with.  I can't develop the proper technique on this plane.  It's too risky.   

Edited August 26, 2021 by Citadelgrad

[bdthoresen]

10 minutes ago, Archer Fine Transfers said:

 

According to the Iwata websiite optimum air pressure should be between 25 to 35 psi which is a lot! 

Wow, that is a lot!

 

Thor    

[Citadelgrad]

I am fortunate enough to live near a large airbrush store, no affiliation, but it's 3 miles from my office. I went in and picked up a pressure regulator, and will plumb that in tonight, see what a real reading on my air pressure gets me.  

[MikeMaben]

8 hours ago, Citadelgrad said:

                 I'm going to come up with a paint mule.

 

Always a good idea ... just don't fall off.

 

 

[Woody V]

9 hours ago, Citadelgrad said:

I need some unneeded plastic to play with.  I can't develop the proper technique on this plane. 

 

Go to the Traders Board and do a LF (Looking For) post. Good luck!

 

[Kaeone57]

On 8/26/2021 at 11:21 AM, STM said:

A great job on the engine but those are the wrong magnetos. If you look at your reference photo, which is correct for the T-bolt, the R-2800 has the "cow plop" magnetos. These version in the kit were normally seen on Vought F4U Corsairs. Don't feel bad, most manufacturers don't always do their research. I am fighting bad research right now on Trumpeter's 1/32 SBD-5 Dauntless. 

Magneto's? I think you mean Distributors! Common mistake, as most people do the same! I'm just an R2800 lover, USN lover, sooo yeah! LoL

 

Alfonso

[Kaeone57]

Well...

 

F4U-1, 1A, Lover and fan as well soooo...yeah!

 

LoL,

Alfonso

 

 

 

 

[Citadelgrad]

More wet sanding tonight.  I hit the whole model, any area that wasnt smooth as a babys butt got the wet sand.  Not much to show. This weekend i will play with clear coats on a paint mule.

re that honked up left wing, there is still a little bit of funk, its all smooth, but looks a little funny, but i am afraid i cant go much deeper, theres a lot of subtle detail there that i want to preserve. 

The remaining funk is around that stars and bars, you can see it here.  Again, feels absolutely smooth, but it looks kind of sparkly from certain angles.  

re the order of operations, clear (or smooth), decals, then panel lines, or seal the decals first, then panels and weather, then seal it all?  
 

its going to be a lightly weathered model. 

Edited August 28, 2021 by Citadelgrad

[MikeMaben]

1 hour ago, Citadelgrad said:

re the order of operations, clear (or smooth), decals, then panel lines, or seal the decals first, then panels and weather, then seal it all? 

 

Either way doable Bill.   Go 

[bdthoresen]

Like Mike said, you can do it either way. I have always applied my decals over a gloss coat, and then sealed them again when they were dry. I tend to use enamel washes though, so the idea would be to protect them from mineral spirits during cleanup. 
 

I have also used Flory Models clay-based washes as well. You would not have to seal the decals with another coat of gloss clear. You could then just give the model a final flat coat after it’s dry to seal them in. They are pretty good.

 

HTH-

 

Thor    

[Citadelgrad]

Ok, i am kind of an analytical guy, so i decided, after getting a proper manifold and regulator, to create a paint mule, using the same sequence and type/colors, and see if i can do something, like paint a lacquer clear over this coat, figure out the acqua and put THAT over it, strip the acqua if i cant safely put something else on top, etc.  

 

so i found a 1/48 Sturmovik, which has nearly a 1/32 jug wing.  I primed it with the same primer, camoed it with the same MRP medium grey and dark green, and then hit it with the acqua.   My spidey sense about my previous pressure was pretty good, it was between 20 and 25 psi, with beautiful finish from the mrp, and the disgusting abomination from the acqua gloss.  
 

heres my mini p47 canvas

 

 

having the new regulator, and seeing that 25 psi wasnt cutting it, i went just above 30 psi, and did this, overlapping by about 1/3, and consciously moving very slowly

There was a trouble spot, it looked like it was orange peel, maybe the tip got dry?

but as it dried it settled down pretty well. 


 

so now im not terrified of acqua gloss any more.  I will continue with this test just for the greater good, what happens if i try to spray lacqer over this, what happens if i try to strip it, etc.  honestly, my preference is to find a safe stripper, and id even give the acqua another go, if i could get rid of the funky look.  Second preferred would be to hit it with another acqua coat just because it will likely hide some of this?

 

here are my chosen first few stripping chemicals

 

i will let this dry overnight, i will spray half with a lacquer clear, and attack the other half with the chemicals and report back. 

Edited August 28, 2021 by Citadelgrad

[Citadelgrad]

Now that its dried, There is a bit of orangepeel in that area, nowhere near as bad as the jug itself, but its there.  So i will shoot another section closer and slower, then bump the pressure up and see which gives better results.  The rest of the wing went on nicely, definitely wetter than i was spraying before.  I will also make a note to hit the nozzle with a q tip in thinners every 30 seconds or so.