1/24 Hawker Fury Biplane

[Jim Barry]

Here are some pics (now at home computer)

 

 

[Guest Peterpools]

JIm

WOW, fantastic progress on the Fury. The foiling looks really good and beyond my abilities.

Keep 'em coming

Peter

[Jim Barry]

Thanks Peter. I should post a little video of my foiling work. 

[Jim Barry]

I followed up on my suggestion. Here's a little video of me laying out a complex panel. 

[Jim Barry]

Here's some more progress. 

 

The spinner. Pretty neat to see how a chrome pen matches the foil on the plane.

 

 

 

And the tail. Here's just taped in position to reality check look and feel. 

 

 

 

Thanks for stopping by! 

[Guyman1]

Very nice Jim this will be one very unique model when done. The method of this build has been very interesting to see unfold.

 

Guy

[Jim Barry]

Thanks, Guy. Means a lot. Any time on that Tony lately?

 

At last, at last, at last. !!! I have found the surface rivets I've been desperate for. Hiroboy.com ! I forget the car guys are working in 1/24 and can be a very good source for my parts. Oh, that reminds me, maybe a 1/24 motorcycle tire would make good tires for me. I've made reasonable solutions sculpting the tires,  but they are lightly flawed and it's bugging me.  

Edited April 5, 2017 by Jim Barry

[Jim Barry]

Welp, my little two week break is over and I'm back at the Fury.  During my project break, I made this scratch Nike Hercules surface to air missile  in 1/72.  Fun little distraction, but it was, at times, not so fun to match up the fins to the surface of the complex missile shape  or the madness of making all 4 pivots work. (it does move and the key part? A Lego hinge I harvested from my personal Legos I've stored  for 40 years somehow. It was kind of legend in my mind and felt good to put it to use) 

 

 

 

 

 

Here's work scribing the spar effect for the  wings of the Fury

 

 

 

And the wheels from the 1/24 Harley are going to work great. Here I am putting the Magic Sculpt in place for the hub. Tricky part now is filling in the tread on the tire to make it smooth. Vinyl is not all that kind to work with. Mr Plastic Putty seems to be the working solution for now. 

 

[LSP_Kevin]

Good to see you back at this one, Jim.

 

Kev

[Jim Barry]

Thanks Kev. It can be easy to be pulled away but a timely break is good.

 

Back at the wings today. Here's the basswood core. Got to now shape it to hold the skin just right. I plan to glue the bottom but let the top skin with extra length "arch" naturally and just touch the wood to get the airfoil shape. After this one piece is complete I'll have to cut it up and re-glue with a little dihedral in the wings. The center sections is flat. That's my thinking for now. Something tells me I'll be learning some lesson ahead but what can you do? This is my learning project. 

 

[Joe66]

Jim,

 

That is pretty much the method I have used in the past as well.....I found that giving the core the proper airfoil shape helped ( top skin is then fully supported ), as did sealing the core before gluing the skin on. After the skin was secure, I have often gone back and cut the tips ( about 5mm along the profile ) and added basswood to then shape them. It helped make the wing tip area accurate and robust, as I always seem to have gotten a bit of distortion in that area. Great looking model and it's always interesting to see how other scratch builders tackle different problems !

 

Cheers,

 

Joe

[Jim Barry]

Joe, Thanks for weighing in! The lack of directions for our "kits" means we have to have help each other when we can. Yes. the airfoil is required (I found out in trial #1). It seems like you do not need it when dry fitting,  but then you go to glue just using a tight contact point where the materials meet  and the plastic surface goes wonky on the contact spot. And yes, the tips are an area of concern. I may well take you up on your advice. 

[Joe66]

If you do that for the tips....get them close to proper shape, then soak them with CA....once dry you can sand and then polish them. This allows for very close shaping and polishing. I usually use those stick type sanding boards ( cheap nailboards in the cosmetics section ) and check the tips often. A quick shot of primer will show imperfections easily.

 

When making the ribs...by way of ballpoint or other stylus impression, I take a scale drawing copy and tape it over a backing...like the dense cardboard from the back of a writing tablet...and by placing .010"-.020" sheet styrene over that and taped in place, I can see the pattern clearly to trace. Another method is to trace the pattern onto the styrene via carbon paper.

 

BTW- if you leave plenty of material at the trailing edge, you will have good clamping area - using a metal bar stock held by clamps, gives a nice even and straight edge. You can cut them out later and do the final trailing edge shaping.

 

It took me a bit of trial and error to figure out where to start the impressions, as the distance over the airfoil curvature is obviously not the same as a flat drawing !

 

Looking forward to seeing more of your progress !

 

Joe

[Joe66]

One other tip that may help for fasteners....besides the scale automotive stuff...have a look at the scale model railroading details...I found some great turnbuckles, and all sorts of nuts n bolts, including wing nuts, from companies like Grandt Line and some of the cast brass parts makers. You will be amazed at the goodies you can find !

 

Joe

[Jim Barry]

We think alike. I live for those sanding sticks for womens nails. They make some amazing multi surface versions that can buff to a serious shine.  My usual plan of attack for the tips would be Magic Sculpt as all my 1/144 scratchbuilds (and the Nike Hercules)  were basically little sculptures.  I'm warming up to basswood being better than MS in some cases. It sands big shapes easier and I guess with the CA dip, you'd be in the same place at the end. 

 

And yes, I'm all over the extended trailing edge. See the picture where the plastic extends past the wooden core? That's my clamping surface. Trial number 1 also suggested to me that a little extra there would be nothing but good. 

 

 

Mmm. Model Railroaders. Good idea. They are a nutty bunch too! 

 

I see you are getting a line of figures going perhaps? I have that idea in the back of my mind. I scratch built this guy (1/16th) a few years ago thinking maybe I'd cast copies and ebay resin copies him (his weapons are add ons). In the end I guessed I needed more experience. It's a start. Another line idea is girls for 1/9th die cast motorcycle collectors.