SCRATCH BUILDER Posted May 13, 2017 Share Posted May 13, 2017 (edited) Looks great so far Jim, as for the cylinder heads, did you try to scratch build one and then cast the others yet? If you get to the point where you not 100% happy with them, I would consider pitching in on the heads as far as making you a master. I also saw some comments on 3D printing cost, Just to let you know that 1/24 scale ME262 in my other post cost me just over $7.80 to print. Edited May 13, 2017 by SCRATCH BUILDER Jim Barry 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Barry Posted May 13, 2017 Author Share Posted May 13, 2017 Rick, Thanks for dropping in and the nice comment. Yes, I did try to scratch one cylinder (with its head and valve covers) and cast the rest. It was sort of a hasty proof of concept that worked OK but left me thinking I should perhaps explore a 3D solution just to learn, if nothing else. Thanks for the offer on making me a master. One more option to consider. Very kind of you. $7.80? Wow, that's really good. A few tests I did suggested otherwise (like ~$60) but perhaps they were not good tests. That was Shapeways. What service did you use? Here's another shot of the resolution I got. It's kind of amazing (to me anyway) Joe66, JayW, MikeMaben and 4 others 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe66 Posted May 13, 2017 Share Posted May 13, 2017 Jim, Looking good ! You might try making the body of the cylinder 'fuller' and reducing the fin distance to reduce overhang. You probably really need only enough depth to get a good dark wash in there along with strong highlights on the edges of the fins. I think the test shot in Ultra detail went very well. The Stong flexible is rough and a real bear to paint as it is so porous and will suck up a ton of paint, and does not provide a crisp edge for good highlighting ( just my experience with it so far ) Another point for working with Shapeways....group all the cylinders as tight as you can and connect them with a sprue and the per cylinder price will go down. E-mail me and I will show you a sample file that will boggle your mind...lol Either way though, by the time you add the other engine parts and wiring, it should look quite nice ! Nice work on the whole....looking forward to the next update !! Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SCRATCH BUILDER Posted May 13, 2017 Share Posted May 13, 2017 Hey Jim, That head looks good!, Like Joe said once you get it wired up, primed and painted it should look great. As far as the cost i don't use a service i print my own, I have a Lulzbot Taz 6 and Lulzbot Mini FDM printers, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClumsyDude Posted May 13, 2017 Share Posted May 13, 2017 Jim ... wow. Amazing work, I'm truly impressed. Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Barry Posted May 17, 2017 Author Share Posted May 17, 2017 (edited) Joe, Thanks for the compliment and tips there. I do plan on a revision before I send out for all the work to be completed. The strong flexible does soak the paint! Rick, Thanks. WOW those are some nice printers you have there. Jim, Thanks. I always like your comments. Keeps me going. Which I needed... Working on struts now and it's one of those moments where it all gets tied together. It's also a moment I do not think I've been in since the last time I build a biplane, a 1/48 Fury to be exact...in 1976 when I was 10. Seems like all your errors are summed up and laid out to you as you go to fit the two wings together using the fuselage for a key join. That said, I'm actually pretty happy with how it's going. I made these struts from aluminum tube that I pressed flat in a vice. They hold aluminum wire in them nicely and can be glued in small sockets and then moved easily enough for exact fit. I had, at first tried some rectangular rod that I sanded to oval, but it was a pain to do that and it does not really host wire very easily. Further, I researched what the real Fury's struts were made of and when I discovered they were metal I knew I had the right solution. It's tough to tell if they were then painted silver but I'm leaning toward not poking too hard on that question as they look really good in this natural metal finish, Edited May 17, 2017 by Jim Barry fozzy 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzas Posted May 17, 2017 Share Posted May 17, 2017 NIce work and great lesson on strut mfg. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe66 Posted May 18, 2017 Share Posted May 18, 2017 THose struts look good...nice to see it all coming together ! Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guyman1 Posted May 18, 2017 Share Posted May 18, 2017 Very nice Jim she really is coming together now. Guy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Barry Posted May 23, 2017 Author Share Posted May 23, 2017 Hi guys. Small intermission to go do a bike race over the weekend. 75 miles w/6000 feet of climbing in a region east of Saratoga Springs, NY. Not my best race (31st of 43 in my age group 50-59). I sort of ran out of gas at 50 miles and slowed considerably. I blame the Fury for some of this as there were way too many afternoons I should have been on the bike training but was, instead, working on the baby. And I'm fine with that. Perhaps a life balance is in order. Work on the Fury is not exactly exciting. The prop has been bothering me and I came to realize it's just not thin enough on the back side, and so sanding that down has been my task lately. Such a bizarre shape to make. Off in the near future, I'm getting concerned about markings. Part of me says stencils and paint and that's not a crazy stretch for me having done that in the past with delight. It's just a lot of work in this case so another part of me says "Decals". Perhaps decals for smaller numbers/letters, else paint. JayW and Joe66 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Barry Posted May 25, 2017 Author Share Posted May 25, 2017 The side project learning 3D printing had a refreshing update this week. On one front, the pricing for the resin material and the start up cost came way down on Shapeways yesterday and on another front I determined (as Joe66 suggested) that one order with many parts is much better than many orders of one part. So...what was something like a show stopping $120 for 18 separate cylinders became just $25 for two rows of 9. I am psyched! Note this version has a more realistic head design with the unfinned intake side. In reality there is a bit more sweeping lines to it all, but that's sort of beyond me now and so I'm going to say "good enough" for a closed cowl model. The rest of the engine will be hand made and placed in this summer's project : a 1/24 F8F Bearcat. 109, Joe66, Hubert Boillot and 1 other 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe66 Posted May 26, 2017 Share Posted May 26, 2017 Looking good !....I knew you'd jump right into this with a running start !! Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Barry Posted May 29, 2017 Author Share Posted May 29, 2017 Ok, Back to the Fury in progress. My attempts at masks were sort of weak (sad because it was very time consuming and ended up in the trash) so I'm going full decals and not risk a struggle. The lower wing callsign (large fonts below) took careful creation and sadly much of my free time over our long holiday weekend. I just used Keynote (Apple's PowerPoint) on my Mac to make small black segments and there is a reasonable editing function in there to give the custom slants and all. Such an odd font. Joe66, JayW and MikeMaben 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SirBlueHenry Posted May 30, 2017 Share Posted May 30, 2017 What an inspirational build !! Hats off ! Jim Barry 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe66 Posted May 30, 2017 Share Posted May 30, 2017 Those look great ! - Worth the effort. Joe Jim Barry 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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