Bill_S Posted January 2, 2016 Author Share Posted January 2, 2016 I went back to the drawing board on the ammo chutes. A little artistic license is involved; one disadvantage of the tub style cockpit module is that it significantly shrinks available side-to-side space. Version 2.0 is much simpler than the first attempt. It fits, and it also provides some surface area for eventual attachment of the instrument panel. As yet, they're still about 0.020" (.5 mm) too thick; I'll give the glue a few more hours to dry before sanding them down. N1K2-J pit is in the middle. Next for these bad boys will be a coat of primer. Seats still need pulleys and bungee cords. I still have work on the sidewalls to do, as well as finishing up the port side consoles. Zero77 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill_S Posted January 5, 2016 Author Share Posted January 5, 2016 (edited) To date there has been nothing in the Revell cockpit that I have deemed usable. I thought maybe I might be able to use to control column... From what I can tell, there was no difference between the N1K1 and N1K2. Hasegawa on the left, Revell on the right. It's such fun drilling a centered hole into the end of a plastic rod. I'm getting a bit of practice, though. The hard part is done! While I was drilling, I thought I'd knock off the tail wheel for the N1K1. The detail on the kit part is pretty poor. I substituted copper tube for plastic on the support strut. There's a plastic ring CA'd at the top of the copper tube; the tube swivels in the housing. Holes in the wheel yoke... A little cleanup, and I'll be able to cement the fuselage halves and rescribe! Edited January 5, 2016 by Bill_S tomv87 and Zero77 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted January 5, 2016 Share Posted January 5, 2016 Very nice work, Bill! You're a man after my own heart. Kev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill_S Posted January 5, 2016 Author Share Posted January 5, 2016 Very nice work, Bill! You're a man after my own heart. Kev Many thanks, Kevin! I'm trying to update this build on a regular basis, so I don't lose momentum. In case you haven't noticed, I skip around a bit, too... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill_S Posted January 14, 2016 Author Share Posted January 14, 2016 Has it really been ten days since my last update? I've not been completely idle... Some color on the cockpits; a pin wash is next, then a flat coat - and I'll be able to add the floor mounted consoles. I've also been doing some work on the engines. The crossover tubes (in black) are from the Brengun PE set. All spark plug holes are drilled, too. LOTS of tiny holes. Ignition harness for the Hasegawa kit. I drilled 0.010" (.25 mm) holes in the ends of the lugs. The Revell kits don't have nearly the detail of the Hasegawa kit. In the case of the Rex, most of it is well hidden by the prop spinner. I've started to drill into the edge for plug wires. More soon! Zero77 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alaninaustria Posted January 14, 2016 Share Posted January 14, 2016 Outstanding work bro!! I love the multiple builds!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shawn M Posted January 14, 2016 Share Posted January 14, 2016 great work on these builds! I will use your thread when I start my 1/24 build this year. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomv87 Posted January 14, 2016 Share Posted January 14, 2016 Onward and Upward! Great work Bill! Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill_S Posted January 20, 2016 Author Share Posted January 20, 2016 (edited) It doesn't look like much, but it was a lot of work. Wrapping wire... The red is wire insulation cut to length. Mid-wing George And the Rex: Some touch-up and dry brushing once I get the wires cut to length and installed... Not too bad for a 70's vintage kit. Nowhere near the detail of the Hasegawa, though. For the N1K2, I thought I'd try something new... A first cut; I'll have to play with it a little. That's copper de-soldering braid. Cockpits are coming along, too. Lots of tiny detail still to add to the port side consoles... Edited January 21, 2016 by Bill_S Out2gtcha, Zero77 and kkarlsen 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shawn M Posted January 20, 2016 Share Posted January 20, 2016 looking good, been going down the research rabbit hole for mine. Yours looks right on! Bill_S 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill_S Posted March 5, 2016 Author Share Posted March 5, 2016 Work continues, but at my usual slow pace. Engines are all wired... Hasegawa N1K2 Revell N1k1-J N1K Rex I cut out the back of the intakes and installed mesh. Revell N1K1-J primed, and ready for scribing Hasegawa N1K2 Revell N1K1 IP, I used Airscale bezels on this one. It's close to getting a coat of black. I can't wait to get these cockpits finished! Zero77, Fooesboy and sax003 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted March 5, 2016 Share Posted March 5, 2016 Fantastic work, Bill! I'm seriously impressed. Kev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill_S Posted March 5, 2016 Author Share Posted March 5, 2016 Fantastic work, Bill! I'm seriously impressed. Kev Thanks, Kevin. I've been putting off cockpit work. It's painstaking work, and once done I'll be that much closer to my Achilles heel - overall painting! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shawn M Posted March 5, 2016 Share Posted March 5, 2016 lovely work on the IP, Im facing that challenge as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill_S Posted March 6, 2016 Author Share Posted March 6, 2016 A very short update tonight. I own a high speed precision drill press. It has an x-y table with 0.01 mm resolution in each direction. It comes in very handy for IP blanks. I use my CAD drawing to determine hole locations, then drill the appropriate holes in a rectangular styrene blank. Next step is to print out an actual size drawing. I use white glue to temporarily attach the paper to the drilled IP blank, usine the holes for alignment. It's then fairly straightforward to trim the IP to its final shape. Tonight, though I used the drill press for something different. I sprayed Tamiya primer on a small piece of 0.01" clear styrene, and taped it to the top of the machinist's vise (paint side up). I mounted a very sharp scriber in the press, and proceeded to scribe lines through the primer and into the plastic. The long lines are 0.06" (1.5mm) apart. It's difficult to see in the photo, but there are a series of lines running perpendicular to those at .25 mm intervals. The primer was then sanded off the back, and black laid down into the grooves (Tamiya x-18) Once dry, I overcoated with MM white enamel. Then masked the finish side with a very small piece of Tamiya tape. Trimmed the thing to size, then painted the top. Just a tiny detail to go on the IP... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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