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Tamiya Spitfire Mk XVIe No. 485 (NZ) Squadron RAF, OU-V, Fassberg 1945


Kahunaminor

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Looks really awesome!  Coming together very nicely now, and all the details added really bring things to life.  :)

 

Just a word of caution, remember, that the BMF is effectively tape................and when you put tape over tape, the over tape (masking tape) adhesion has to be less than the adhesion of the under tape (BMF) in order for the BMF not to peel off with the masking layer.

I have found the adhesive on BMF to be quite weak a lot of the time, so be very careful when peeling your masking tape off of the oleos.

 

Looking forward to seeing some paint!

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Looks really awesome!  Coming together very nicely now, and all the details added really bring things to life.  :)

 

Just a word of caution, remember, that the BMF is effectively tape................and when you put tape over tape, the over tape (masking tape) adhesion has to be less than the adhesion of the under tape (BMF) in order for the BMF not to peel off with the masking layer.

I have found the adhesive on BMF to be quite weak a lot of the time, so be very careful when peeling your masking tape off of the oleos.

 

Looking forward to seeing some paint!

Thanks Brian,

 

Firstly, thanks for looking in.

 

The seam of the BMF is at the rear of the gear lug (naturally) and I have carefully and lightly taped the masking in the opposite direction so that in theory, the only chance of pull is at the very end and should work to hold down the BMF in place. There is actually three pieces of masking (yeah overkill) two thin pieces at each end and a slightly larger over the middle, all wrapped in the opposite direction to the BMF to minimise the risk.

 

Regards,

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Kent,

 

I have just caught up...

 

your build has gotten very trilling to watch and your workmanship is EXEMPLARY.. :thumbsup: :yahoo:

 

I like the NEAT , FLAWLESS work on the  cockpit et al... :wow:

 

Very good work ...

it ROCKS :punk: :punk:

Keep it coming Sir. :bow:

 

MARU 5137

Maru, you are too kind!

 

Thanks for stopping by.

 

Regards,

Edited by Kahunaminor
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With the positive news from Matt, I thought I should get back to the bench! A couple of days just preparing seams and sealing up the airframe. The lower cowling  to remove the seams:

 

0650F71B-0F73-4A51-A842-1FC84F8B1F8A_zps

 

E48A0D0A-23F1-4194-AEBF-0AA6B180D0B3_zps

 

The racks for the MC 250lb bombs were fitted:

 

5434EC31-F2FA-4C4B-9787-7FE404148810_zps

 

I had to remove the peg for the kit bombs and in doing so made a little bit of a mess of the apertures. You can also see that I have masked and filled the MG inserts to improve the finish. Perfect Plastic Putty was used and should benefit from a light sanding. Being a water based ingredient you should be wary of wet sanding, not a mustn't do but just very sparing:

 

2353C8CC-43AB-4A62-B3BD-BD3041E01883_zps

 

E771AD70-CCE5-40DA-A6C0-9985B7598E0E_zps

 

The racks will be home to these MDC 250lb bombs. Two part body and tail assembly has been sanded. The PE fins will go on soon and then painting and decals from the kit:

 

F3606C98-4770-45AE-90F6-0D548ED04F17_zps

 

I went back and forth about including the ability to see an open engine. The MkVIII I have will definitely be closed up so I decided to go the operable route:

 

8B680910-CBC9-46C2-AB53-66E86A1A5F8F_zps

 

B51B8B0F-BBAC-432C-B7F0-D1E79BF8FF7A_zps

 

The supercharger is not yet cemented and I have some more detailing (drilling and wiring) to do. Using Dave's build and the build by Aleksandar Pocuc in the excellent "The Modeller's Guide" from ADH books, I hope to end up somewhere between OOB and Wolf Buddee!

 

 

Thanks for looking and regards,

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I unexpectedly found myself with some time so I thought I would start detailing the engine. Thumbing through various references and on line builds yo can really go to town. I thought I would just do a little plumbing. I drilled various diameter holes in the kit parts to accept lead wire and other items. I drilled out the spark plug holes on either side and filled them with 0.05 lead wire. This was then trimmed just proud of the plastic to represent spark plug heads. An indentation into the top of each one and then CA attached 0.03 lead wire and connected to the styrene rod I had added earlier:

 

4A093BB9-3DDA-429E-A611-084224C7B581_zps

 

Same for the other side and some other plumbing bits:

 

FB897DF5-6829-41C5-A748-FE1F4BD11721_zps

 

Ignition cables on the top:

 

71F6D4A8-C6F9-4A46-B230-B876EBC8034B_zps

 

And a start on the firewall:

 

887FECDD-1186-468D-9530-1487628E6362_zps

 

A few more bits then I shall start shooting paint on the engine. The airframe is sort of in limbo until I get the armament inserts back this weekend but I hope to have some colour on there shortly.

 

Regards,

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After the good vibe of the weekend show and getting my gun parts back from my sub contractor Matt Gilks, I decided to put them to the test. Removed all the material from the inner plug and carefully sanded, filed the excess plastic and prayed. Got the shape and position of the MG sorted. It is necessary to remove some material from behind the insert as the base of the MG is round and won't go into a square hole:

 

3DB4C7D6-B86D-4D9D-8E9D-A504D43B1D8F_zps

 

It took a little jockeying into position and then set with CA before gluing the inserts:

 

E4A1617A-4E3D-4B18-A7B6-62ADE6B418D0_zps

 

347A1673-FB08-4E85-8A77-3F8A1B6CF427_zps

 

The cannon are not cemented in as yet and there is some cleaning up to do:

 

72577734-996A-4EA6-8119-3690912126CE_zps

 

98DDE6F1-7B15-4F3C-B3FC-94A706DC8F03_zps

 

I sat the engine in its cradle and just test fitted it to the airframe:

FE3EC3E0-4FF8-4E4D-B13A-74CEF930B033_zps

 

E27CC5DE-7714-413B-943F-AB1F45B82176_zps

 

Some colleagues have indicated the detail work on the spark plugs and cables will interfere with the fit of the braces (parts Q) and they had to remove their work to get it to fit. I have reworked the cables so they are closer to the engine. An initial test fit indicates if I carefully sand down the marked areas on the Q pieces to make it 2 x 45 degree angles rather than 1 x 90 degree (approx) it may fit:

 

2ACF218B-AF90-4425-8DA1-88CB1C1F69B7_zps

 

74FBDFA1-A7A0-40AA-9480-12F850E1E531_zps

 

Speaking of the engine, I finally put some paint on something:

 

EE67E5FF-BD1A-4484-976D-CBAB22AF67C5_zps

 

 

Regards,

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So...I have removed the marked material from the Q pieces and it now appears they will allow the work on the spark plugs to stay (yay):

 

A8EE5D4E-6F05-4A0A-980B-AE8CD7D5B514_zps

 

Both are now complete and have been test fitted with success.

 

I started plumbing the firewall and engine supports using various thickness lead wire. It is not exact and to be honest I don't know where a lot of it actually goes but it appears to correspond to most of the other on line and referenced builds:

 

40EB843A-2B5D-4AAA-90A0-B6A0E17B72BE_zps

 

B5088A7F-A2DD-4080-BB9E-79CC63473AE9_zps

 

67180E91-E34E-45A2-A846-6A28FFFC2D76_zps

 

I then used BMF to form clips for the cables and pirpes where they ran along various structures. There are still some open ended cabling to be completed but I then shot the RAF Interior Green on the assembly:

 

A9773DB9-8A54-41FE-A792-502B63F87A3C_zps

 

DA4CB300-388D-45C6-BF0D-CBABBC314B91_zps

 

B6CE1C7E-3D68-4D50-A293-DACB499136F6_zps

 

The panel supports have had the holes drilled out and painted:

 

C9ECE6AA-0030-40CA-95B3-3CDA19A9E12C_zps

 

I also did the interior of the wing joins and the areas around the engine pod that will probably not be seen but if I left them unpainted you could bet they would be seen!

 

A61592FA-5505-4799-B702-1851B9C2910A_zps

 

I got a bit excited by progress and will have to work out how to paint the details as I have secured the engine bearers, oh well.

Thanks for checking in and regards,

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Terrific progress, Kent. Looking great so far!

 

Kev

Thanks Kev,

 

I have sort of lost momentum on the airframe at the moment, so I will plug onwards with the engine. Waiting on some AK true metal copper for the pipes from BNA which should be here this week.

 

Regards,

Edited by Kahunaminor
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  • 2 weeks later...
Well, it has been a while between updates. I found the building of the engine became obsessive. I would get to a point where I would say. "Okay, that's it." Then I would say, "Maybe just a little more detail....." Anyhow, I got a chance to try out the AK Interactive True Metal line and I am impressed. I still have to "master" working with a wax but it definitely is something to bear in mind. Onto the pictures with the beginning of the engine detailing:

 

7BCC7E2E-56BC-4C90-8AA8-FE43660BBC5A_zps

 

62C8D420-81A0-414B-AF39-F73239E4DBC6_zps

 

Basic plumbing installed with lead wire and BMF for retaining clips. Painted with Tamiya copper and MM Aluminium:

 

E495E7C4-7F8F-4E3F-884E-8CE9F61F31F2_zps

 

3C2CB0D7-5699-4BEA-B0D8-C07022D57CF6_zps

 

Now this is where the AK Interactive True Metal Copper is added. You can hopefully see it is a smoother application than the Tamiya paint:

 

8DCA3862-BF52-4B1B-973E-56B67D5EC0A6_zps

 

21EB3E84-3E65-4613-8653-8A50F6C0B5DB_zps

 

Here is the TM on the aluminium parts and buffed after about 30 minutes:

 

659201FE-3ACA-4C2F-B64E-4052529069B0_zps

 

I have never used a pure metallic "paint" before and it certainly is a very nice finish. I did find, however, that the TM was a little delicate, in that being an unsealed wax, it tended to continue to rub off when handled and sometimes in applying it with a brush, you removed too much and the bare primed plastic showed through. I will go into that in my next post.

 

Regards,

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