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Fisher 1/32 Ryan STM-2


LSP_Kevin

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Hi Kev, 

 

How many more rivets would you want unless you were doing a whole model?

 

I have the sheet and although pricey, I have used it on many projects and still have many left.

 

Eric.

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I have the sheet and although pricey, I have used it on many projects and still have many left.

That's true mate, but I still don't think it's great value for money. I'll get to use the rest though for sure, as I've got a couple of the old Hasegawa 1930s biplanes hanging about, and probably other suitable kits besides.

 

Kev

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Have been seeing the references to the Ryan on the Do 335 thread Kevin.  Finally had to look in and see what it was you were working on.

 

As to wood grain, I have usually done a reddish brown acrylic over a light tan enamel.  Lately have been using a lot of Vallejo paints to good effect.  They are such good paints for brush work that I have been able to do things that I have never been able to do before.

 

Nice looking build Kev!

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Yeah come on Kev, what's the hold up!

 

I reckon you should get back into the x-1 whilst you are there.

 

Eric

 

Well mate, in the last week I've written 6 reviews (with one more one to do), published 3 What's New updates, made some headway on the Do 335, did some updates to the website code base, and, hmm, what else? Oh yeah, went to work every day! :P

 

But, here's a photo of the Ryan in primer anyway:

 

hZQv3i.jpg

 

I've still got a small gap to deal with on the underside, where the rear of the wing meets the fuselage, but I don't think I'm all that far away from getting some paint on it. Hopefully something more substantial in the next update.

 

Kev

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That's true mate, but I still don't think it's great value for money. I'll get to use the rest though for sure, as I've got a couple of the old Hasegawa 1930s biplanes hanging about, and probably other suitable kits besides.

 

Kev

 

Agree the size of the sheet is a disapointment. I have not used mine yet, nor the HGW "dry-transfer" ones (I ordered A4 sheets, but you can get A5 as well), but the latter seem better value for money, plus no carrier film ...

 

Good job on the Ryan, Kev !

 

Hubert.

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Just applying the Archer rivets now. They apply just like ordinary decals, as advertised, and perform pretty well. I struggled to follow the curvature of the fuselage though, so I suspect the repairs I did across the top might look a little wonky. We shall see!

 

Agree the size of the sheet is a disapointment. I have not used mine yet, nor the HGW "dry-transfer" ones (I ordered A4 sheets, but you can get A5 as well), but the latter seem better value for money, plus no carrier film ...

 

Good job on the Ryan, Kev !

 

Hubert.

 

Thanks Hubert. The HGW approach is one they have dubbed 'wet transfers', in that the go on like waterslide decals, but ultimately leave no carrier film on the model. I'm highly intrigued by some of the stencil sets they're beginning to come out with!

 

FWIW, I reviewed a set of the HGW rivets a while back:

 

http://www.largescaleplanes.com/reviews/review.php?rid=1181

 

One thing I did notice was that it was possible to accidentally remove some of the rivets along with the carrier film, which could get pretty frustrating if it was happening often.

 

Kev

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OK, I finally found some more time to work on this. The first thing I needed to do was reinstate all the rivets I'd sanded off:

 

uOSO0h.jpg

 

The instructions advise to use Archer set AR88014, so that's what I did:

 

6YAcbG.jpg

 

ghiuEU.jpg

 

Unfortunately I didn't join the dots all that well, but I think it looks OK in the end, and certainly much better than not replacing the rivets at all:

 

ZsJWXe.jpg

 

It'll look fine under camo I reckon.

 

I also got the vertical fin installed:

 

JhS4VM.jpg

 

As you can see, I copped a nasty gap on the port side, which I'll gradually fill with some Vallejo Plastic Putty. I've put on application on already. I like using this putty because you can slop it in and then wipe away the excess with a damp cotton bud - no sanding like traditional putties, and no need to use solvents for clean-up like Mr Surfacer. And it's a lot less hassle than Milliput! It'll just take a few goes to complete the job. There's a much smaller gap on the other side, which I'll treat similarly.

 

Lastly for this update, I applied some Model Master Insignia Yellow (thanks Brent!) to the cowl:

 

uYwqrS.jpg

 

I was mainly aiming to colour in the breather hole for the engine, since I can then fit the engine and mask that area off before proceeding with the rest of the paint job. But since I had plenty of paint left in the airbrush after than, I just kept going. One of the best yellows I've used!

 

That's all for now. Thanks as always for looking in!

 

Kev

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Thanks chaps. I've managed to pooch the tail plane assembly though. I think my bottle of gel CA is going bad, as I had a terrible time trying to get the starboard horizontal stabiliser to stay attached to the fuselage. After much CA, accelerator, swearing and cursing, I was left with gobs of CA everywhere and no starboard horizontal stabiliser on the aircraft. :BANGHEAD2:

 

So I break out the nail polish remover and the cotton buds, and begin the laborious process of removing all that CA. The only problem is there's a heck of a build-up in the concave part of the fairing that mates with the fuselage, so I decided to stand it end-up in a small bath of nail polish remover. Well, who knew that acetone melts resin? :shrug:

 

Luckily (I guess...), there was only a little bit of damage to the shape of the fairing. I've now got the damn thing attached, and am working at repairing the damage and at least making it look acceptable. It wouldn't be one of my builds without at least one incident like this!

 

Kev

 

As always you never fail to disappoint. Lovely workmanship. Its gonna look so pretty on floats  :whistle:

 

Best

 

Geoff

 

Thanks Geoff. No floats for this one I'm afraid, as I promised Paul I'd do an Aussie one. Brent beat me to my preferred all-yellow option, so I'm going with the one with the camouflaged upper surfaces. Not my favourite scheme, but at least it should help hide the damage I've done to the tail section!

 

No time for photos in this update unfortunately, but hopefully there'll be some in the next one.

 

Kev

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Thanks Brent - good to see you're watching! Here's the latest on the tail planes. This side turned out OK:

 

Z8tNeP.jpg

 

But this is the side I messed up:

 

1i3Tpn.jpg

 

I suspect it looks a little worse than it really is, and I reckon a coat of Mr Surfacer will improves things a fair bit. I plan to tape around the edge of the obliterated fairing and spray some Mr Surfacer into it to build it up again, just to give the effect of it being there. The two sides will mostly likely be asymmetrical, but I'll have to live with that.

 

Once I get past this little hurdle - and if I can avoid any more of them - it should be pretty smooth sailing from here on out.

 

Kev

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