marauderdriver Posted February 6, 2014 Share Posted February 6, 2014 Mark, I have never used anything to overcoat my foil except Pledge with Future Shine Acrylic (Future) and surely never had a problem. I do not know if this product is available to you locally, but I know it has a different name in Europe. Did this happen on the whole model? hard to tell in the photo's. Please try to strip the Tamiya as you really cannot hurt the foil an NO Shelf of Doom, We'll figure something out. Jack Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Peterpools Posted February 6, 2014 Share Posted February 6, 2014 Thanks Brian. We're both on the same page and just looking how to reproduce the most natural finish we can. I'm glad there are a few really good methods of achieving a NMF and hopefully more will come onto the market. I'm just guessing at what caused Mark's problem. I have found that the smoother the surface, (NMF), some paints and acrylics just won't adhere at all and pillow up, very much like the meniscus effect of water. Soft water helps when applying decals but won't work here (?). I'm also curious as to how much the Tamiya X-22 Clear would dull the finish. Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Out2gtcha Posted February 6, 2014 Share Posted February 6, 2014 Both of you guys are correct. I have not had much luck with clears overall, but seem to get the most flubs on my part with acrylic type clears like Tamiyas. Not sure why, as most of my foil was grained and not really smooth. Jack is right Mark, you cant hurt the foil, and if you want to clear the model, you can easily start over, with the expense of some replacement decals at worst, and a have a new experiment, and no new model on the SOD at best. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark31 Posted February 6, 2014 Author Share Posted February 6, 2014 Mark EGADS! can't believe this happened but why shelve the build? Since it's foil and you used Tamiya X-22 Clear, some rubbing with alcohol should strip the clear coat off and then it's back to the build. I'm not sure if the same applies to foil but with Alclad I never seal the finish for decaling. I ave sealed the fined on certain areas of the aircraft and have used either Alclad Gloss Kote Sealer (Lacquer) and MM Metalizer Sealer (bottle) and the results were excellent. If they work on Alclad, they should work equally well on foil. Hope you give it one last try Peter I agree, removing should work with alcohol, just don't go too hard on decals YIKES! Well that was sorta-kinda what I was afraid of. I know Jack and others have had success and GREAT results clearing foiled models but I seem to have about similar results to you when clearing Mark. If im not flubbing up the clear, I make the foil not look really like foil anymore. HOWEVER............... Peter is 110% correct. Take some 90% alcohol to the wing to remove the clear, if its acrylic. To tell you the truth Mark, its one of the true JOYS of foil..............anything goes over the top of it if you make a boo boo like this! NBD, all you might have to do is replace the USAF decal. If you DO use alcohol, make sure its the 90% variety, and NOT the 70% stuff. Because the foil is so durable, you could use 90% alcohol, Tamiya acrylic thinner, or even Mr Color thinner. Any of it should remove the clear, and restore the foil to its "pre-clear" look. That decal might bite the bullet, but as Peter said, its no cause to SOD a really nice build so far. Peter, you are 100% correct my friend! Each to his own. I think I will also try to experiment more with silver paints and Alclad both. Ok guys thanks for the tips about the alcohol it work fine to remove the clear coat. The decal of the USAF is a bit dammagde but not much i will leav it like it is(wheathering) Mark, I have never used anything to overcoat my foil except Pledge with Future Shine Acrylic (Future) and surely never had a problem. I do not know if this product is available to you locally, but I know it has a different name in Europe. Did this happen on the whole model? hard to tell in the photo's. Please try to strip the Tamiya as you really cannot hurt the foil an NO Shelf of Doom, We'll figure something out. Jack It whas not over the entire model i have just done the wings because i had see i had troubel on the first one. And yes we have sol plus over here thats the same so im going to give it a try tomorow so it so shelf of doom than. Thanks Brian. We're both on the same page and just looking how to reproduce the most natural finish we can. I'm glad there are a few really good methods of achieving a NMF and hopefully more will come onto the market. I'm just guessing at what caused Mark's problem. I have found that the smoother the surface, (NMF), some paints and acrylics just won't adhere at all and pillow up, very much like the meniscus effect of water. Soft water helps when applying decals but won't work here (?). I'm also curious as to how much the Tamiya X-22 Clear would dull the finish. Peter I have no idee what the prolem could be with the tamiya clear on the foil Both of you guys are correct. I have not had much luck with clears overall, but seem to get the most flubs on my part with acrylic type clears like Tamiyas. Not sure why, as most of my foil was grained and not really smooth. Jack is right Mark, you cant hurt the foil, and if you want to clear the model, you can easily start over, with the expense of some replacement decals at worst, and a have a new experiment, and no new model on the SOD at best. Thanks result so far after the alcohol just one decal had a small problem but not to bad im going to let it like it is its wheatering. All of u thanks for the advice and tips Mark. back happy now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GuildAero Posted February 6, 2014 Share Posted February 6, 2014 I've been using a superb clear by Aktifan. I don't know what it is made of, polyurethane maybe? It's a one shot, straight from the tin, usable as is in a Paasche Model H airbrush powered by a small airbrush compressor that I've had for years. It cost me £20 for a litre, which will last me forever. I had a tiny bit of wrinkling on some decals, but I think I'd put it on too thick at that point as it was about to rain! The decals were also very much home made by a Czech guy who makes my client's slot car schemes. I'm sure the Aktifan wouldn't trouble professional silk screened decals and wouldn't affect any if it is put on in very thin coats. The gloss is like glass and as tough as old boots, as befits any finish that can take the knocks of a slot rally car and its complex decal scheme! Best of all it dries in minutes! Cheers, Martin marauderdriver 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marauderdriver Posted February 6, 2014 Share Posted February 6, 2014 Mark, Peter, Brian I think there must be a Tamiya Reaction here, and the clear pooled and did not LEVEL for some reason I say Tamiya Reaction because I live in a state where the humidity is mostly above 80% 9 months out of the year and it causes all kinds of mischief on drying paint...esp clears. I have used Future as my gloss coat since the late 80's and have NEVER had 1 problem that was not my fault. If the Johnson Company knew what they had they would put it in 1oz jars for $4.00. the only Tamiya paint I use are the colored clears. I think that like everything about this hobby, It's an Individual Sport We are all not going to see things the same......Thank God Peter, Brian I have tried for years to produce a NMF to my liking and went through all the paint scenarios as I could. 3 of my Alclad or Metalizer builds are in the 8th AFM or 2nd Bomb Wing Headquarters, Barksdale AFB. and they won several awards at contest. My fellow club members thought I was NUTS for all the polishing and stuff that I had to do to make them come out to MY standard. I have had virtually the exact reaction when I started foiling, the difference was MY reaction to the foil............and the rest is history. So Peter, Yes I will keep trying to LURE you into my "WEB of FOIL" Actually the processes are pretty much the same 'but in a different order. Basically you work to paint the overall aircraft, then work each panel to completion . I work each panel, then work the overall model to completion. MARK I know you can fix this and continue.........It is a CHALLENGE ......Do You LOVE Model Building? GET'M TIGER! Jack mark31 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shepard Posted February 6, 2014 Share Posted February 6, 2014 Hi there...... hope you fix it.... as Jack said.....Its a huge challenge......thats model building.... cheers mate Shep mark31 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark31 Posted February 6, 2014 Author Share Posted February 6, 2014 (edited) Ok here is the second try on the clear coat. The first i have removed with the alcohol therefore many thanks for the tips on that one. Later on i have used sol plus its the same u have like futere. It looks good now here some pics. And this is the damage on the decal. Many thanks for te support to u all. Mark Edited February 6, 2014 by mark31 Rainer Hoffmann 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loic Posted February 6, 2014 Share Posted February 6, 2014 Lovely ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marauderdriver Posted February 6, 2014 Share Posted February 6, 2014 Don't Ya Loveit When a Plan Comes Together? Mark Did you apply the Tamiya clear before or after the decal was put on? I think the clear reacted with the decal,I believe the foil and the Very thin decal made the surface too smooth and it just beaded up. Happy Mark's Happy Ain't it FUN? Jack Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark31 Posted February 6, 2014 Author Share Posted February 6, 2014 Lovely ! Thanks Don't Ya Loveit When a Plan Comes Together? Mark Did you apply the Tamiya clear before or after the decal was put on? I think the clear reacted with the decal,I believe the foil and the Very thin decal made the surface too smooth and it just beaded up. Happy Mark's Happy Ain't it FUN? Jack Yes i like it a lot I have aplyd the clear after the decals where put in place so that can be the problem But now i know this i will use sol for the next ones And yes im very happy now and its a lot of fun. cant wait to foil the next one but must resist and finnish this one first. Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted February 6, 2014 Share Posted February 6, 2014 It's a bit late now I realise, but rather than using alcohol, next time use some Windex if you can find some (ammonia-based glass cleaner in a spray bottle). It strips Tamiya acrylics beautifully and is far less aggressive on things like decals. Kev Out2gtcha 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Out2gtcha Posted February 6, 2014 Share Posted February 6, 2014 It's a bit late now I realise, but rather than using alcohol, next time use some Windex if you can find some (ammonia-based glass cleaner in a spray bottle). It strips Tamiya acrylics beautifully and is far less aggressive on things like decals. Kev Good idea! Good you saved her Mark............awesome! Glad it worked out well for you. Looks great so far. Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ken Stetzenko Posted February 7, 2014 Share Posted February 7, 2014 Excellent work for your fist time and you picked a really nice kit to start with. Great job! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark31 Posted February 7, 2014 Author Share Posted February 7, 2014 Many thanks to you all and the advice. Kevin i will remember that tip. Ok now whe are almost there on the finnish line. At the moment im at thise point. Mark Out2gtcha and Iain 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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