Sparzanza Posted November 11, 2016 Author Share Posted November 11, 2016 Yeah I've used T-röd to remove enamel paint before. Can't really use a needle for riveting as I do not have a needle thick enough to simulate any. The ones I have are way too small. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndersN Posted November 11, 2016 Share Posted November 11, 2016 Is that fat milk or laktosfri mini milk? Sparzanza and BGB 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dodgem37 Posted November 11, 2016 Share Posted November 11, 2016 (edited) Press the point into the location you want the rivet, angle the needle, then rotate it around that axis. The point will stay in its' location but by angling the needle shaft it will move the plastic making a hole larger than the point or shaft.Sincerely,Mark Edited November 11, 2016 by dodgem37 Mal_Belford, LSP_K2 and Sparzanza 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mal_Belford Posted November 11, 2016 Share Posted November 11, 2016 (edited) But you can take a small woodnail...and sharpen it....or thick guitar (i mean the fsn nowound), and if short it is stiff and hard...there are many things that csn be used as an owl to create simple rivets Build some of youre own owls... Ive even sharpened brass tube ends to recreate some round small ringish rivets. There are many options...just some enginering thinking needed..... And some pointed out nice tips of ways of doin it... Edited November 11, 2016 by Mal_Belford Sparzanza 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sparzanza Posted November 11, 2016 Author Share Posted November 11, 2016 I'll post again once this dark cloud has passed. BGB, LSP_K2, 109 and 2 others 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeMaben Posted November 12, 2016 Share Posted November 12, 2016 ...and save the riveting til after all the sanding. You can do it Sparzy ! Sparzanza, Mal_Belford and BGB 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Peterpools Posted November 12, 2016 Share Posted November 12, 2016 Sparz Been there, done that. Over the years I've pretty much sorted out my thinning problems by keeping a small note book with the thinning ratios I use for different paints and even colors, as I do tend to forget things these days. Most import of all, I like to keep things simple and repeatable. I note in my book: Paint - Brand, type of paint and number of drops Color if needed Thinner - type and number of drops. Air Brush ( I have a few) Working Air Pressure The thinning ratio is always the same for each paint and color, so there isn't any guessing ... the results are always the same. My thinning mixes are very different for each type of paint .. I just refer to the book and all is good. Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sparzanza Posted November 12, 2016 Author Share Posted November 12, 2016 Press the point into the location you want the rivet, angle the needle, then rotate it around that axis. The point will stay in its' location but by angling the needle shaft it will move the plastic making a hole larger than the point or shaft. Sincerely, Mark I will give this a shot, thanks. But you can take a small woodnail...and sharpen it....or thick guitar (i mean the fsn nowound), and if short it is stiff and hard...there are many things that csn be used as an owl to create simple rivets Build some of youre own owls... Ive even sharpened brass tube ends to recreate some round small ringish rivets. There are many options...just some enginering thinking needed..... And some pointed out nice tips of ways of doin it... Thanks, but I don't have access to any of those things, and even if I did, I'd have no way of sharpening them anyway. Haha, I'm hopeless... I will give the needle technique another go. ...and save the riveting til after all the sanding. You can do it Sparzy ! But of course! Thank you! Sparz Been there, done that. Over the years I've pretty much sorted out my thinning problems by keeping a small note book with the thinning ratios I use for different paints and even colors, as I do tend to forget things these days. Most import of all, I like to keep things simple and repeatable. I note in my book: Paint - Brand, type of paint and number of drops Color if needed Thinner - type and number of drops. Air Brush ( I have a few) Working Air Pressure The thinning ratio is always the same for each paint and color, so there isn't any guessing ... the results are always the same. My thinning mixes are very different for each type of paint .. I just refer to the book and all is good. Peter Thanks for the tip Peter, though I'm afraid this does not apply to Humbrol. Almost every single paint I have vary in thickness. Some need no thinning at all, while others are like thick mud. The RLM76 I opened yesterday was extremely thick. That's why I mixed it 50/50 with thinner to achieve the consistency that usually works when I shoot Humbrol. This is the first time it backfired on me. Still don't know why it did. I have rubbed off about 70% of the paint now with T-röd alcohol and q-tips. Just a couple of tricky spots remaining. LSP_K2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BGB Posted November 12, 2016 Share Posted November 12, 2016 Hello Björn, Keep ut the good work don't do like me and give up :frantic: !! Cheers Boris Sparzanza 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sparzanza Posted November 12, 2016 Author Share Posted November 12, 2016 Hello Björn, Keep ut the good work don't do like me and give up :frantic: !! Cheers Boris Thank you Boris. Don't worry - it will take a lot more than this for me to give up! This was just a minor setback, and I've got a comeback at the ready! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_K2 Posted November 12, 2016 Share Posted November 12, 2016 Thanks for the tip Peter, though I'm afraid this does not apply to Humbrol. Almost every single paint I have vary in thickness. Some need no thinning at all, while others are like thick mud. The RLM76 I opened yesterday was extremely thick. That's why I mixed it 50/50 with thinner to achieve the consistency that usually works when I shoot Humbrol. This is the first time it backfired on me. Still don't know why it did. I used to be a big fan of Humbrol, but only for hand painting details. I never did care for it much for airbrushing, and have opened tins that were as thick as toothpaste. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sparzanza Posted November 12, 2016 Author Share Posted November 12, 2016 I used to be a big fan of Humbrol, but only for hand painting details. I never did care for it much for airbrushing, and have opened tins that were as thick as toothpaste. I know new Humbrol's are very bad compared to how they used to be, but apparently they're changing that? Anyway, I quite like how they airbrush, I just don't like the tins. They have to be cleaned thoroughly each time paint is poured out of them. I have yet to figure out a painless technique for this. I tried straws and everything. Mneh. And... eh. Another setback. Painting will have to be put on hold - I ran out of cottonbuds! I don't only use them to rub paint off, but they're an essential tool in cleaning up my airbrushes as well! Bah! Shaka HI 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mal_Belford Posted November 12, 2016 Share Posted November 12, 2016 (edited) Sparz.... When i sharpen my owls..i use sandpaper or needle file just for info..and you got sand paper...well what the hell are you waiting for...also a nail.....in the wall somewhere...or painting frame (you get the pic)... Edited November 12, 2016 by Mal_Belford Sparzanza 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martinnfb Posted November 13, 2016 Share Posted November 13, 2016 one motivational Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sparzanza Posted November 13, 2016 Author Share Posted November 13, 2016 (edited) Thanks Martin & Mal! Well, got my hands on some more cottonbuds! Cleaned up the remainder of the messed up right wing, sprayed another coat of RLM76, and it turned out better than expected. Not a trace of any mishaps. I also took this opportunity to give the engine covers, droptank, nose, and tail (a peculiar looking bird, yes indeed) a second coat of the stuff. The 200 sprays beautifully. Once this is dry, I will mask off the left wing and shoot some aluminium - as apparently it wasn't entirely luftwaffe egg green underneath. Edited November 13, 2016 by Sparzanza Azgaron and 109 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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