HK B-17G

[Stormer]

I like where this is going!

The NMF you have used for the interior, is that Tamiya AS-12 rattle can?

[TimW]

I like where this is going!

The NMF you have used for the interior, is that Tamiya AS-12 rattle can?

Hey--

 

I used the Testors/Model Master Silver, though I noticed doing an online search they don't seem to have it available anymore.  Must have been in my hobby shop for ages!

 

I sprayed some Dull Cote over it and have been weathering it a bit using various shades of aluminum, etc. 

 

Didn't seem worth the hassle to airbrush all that surface area!

 

Regards,

 

Tim W.

[mz826]

Looks excellent Tim! The wood floor especially.

[TimW]

More progress, more death by rattle can metalizer....cough cough.

 

 

 

 

Anybody else besides me have issues with the fit of the nacelles?  I really had to wrestle with them and there were seam issues.  Maybe it was just me.

 

Still a lot of weathering to do; I'll also be breaking out the airbrush to paint different panels with different metallic shades (e.g., that darker bit that you can see in photos behind the engine cowlings, etc).

 

Tim W.

[Silver Dollar]

Nice work, Tim.  I hope you don't mind but I downloaded some of your pictures to "steal some of your detailing that I haven't put into my build yet.  Be careful when you mask off that Modelmaster metalizer.  It's not supposed to mask off too well.  Some of it tends to come off with the tape.  I ran into that problem because I used the aluminum plate metalizer to spray the fabric rudder.  I'm foiling the rest of it.  I'll have to get a hold of some AS 12 paint for the other control surfaces.  

[Showtime 100]

Nice progress !

 

 

With the B-17 as a size gauge, that's a mighty large table it's sitting on. Or is that the floor ?

[Azgaron]

Looking very good so far, Tim!

 

Nice with so many B-17 builds!

 

HÃ¥kan

[Guest Peterpools]

Tim

Awesome progress on the Fortress. The As12 rattle can finish sure lookks good to these old eyes.

Keep 'em coming

Peter

:popcorn:

[TimW]

Nice work, Tim.  I hope you don't mind but I downloaded some of your pictures to "steal some of your detailing that I haven't put into my build yet.  Be careful when you mask off that Modelmaster metalizer.  It's not supposed to mask off too well.  Some of it tends to come off with the tape.  I ran into that problem because I used the aluminum plate metalizer to spray the fabric rudder.  I'm foiling the rest of it.  I'll have to get a hold of some AS 12 paint for the other control surfaces. 

Thanks for the tip--I gloss coated the a/c after buffing and before masking again and so far, no problems.  I used the Tamiya aluminium for the control surfaces.  It is just a bit different from the rest of the a/c, though you can't really see it in the pix.

 

And steal away!  Glad to hear some of these postings are actually proving helpful to somebody!

 

Cheers,

 

Tim W.

[TimW]

Nice progress !

 

 

With the B-17 as a size gauge, that's a mighty large table it's sitting on. Or is that the floor ?

That's a section of 5' x 4' table.  I have two of them on trestles in the "War Room."  I use them for modeling, wargaming, firearm cleaning, etc.

 

Managed to get the landing gear finished and attached.   I hope to start on the various shades of NMF next, along with decals and weathering.

 

Tim W.

[Silver Dollar]

Thanks for the tip--I gloss coated the a/c after buffing and before masking again and so far, no problems.  I used the Tamiya aluminium for the control surfaces.  It is just a bit different from the rest of the a/c, though you can't really see it in the pix.

 

And steal away!  Glad to hear some of these postings are actually proving helpful to somebody!

 

Cheers,

 

Tim W.

Thanks for the tip and thanks for letting me use the pics.  

 

I should have sprayed the clear coat over my own parts.  I can still go back and do that and do a little respray of the silver first.  I started the foiling process and noticed it's not as easy as it looks.  I'm using the thinnest foil I could find since the heavy stuff (which I wanted to use in the first place) didn't allow the the panel lines and rivet holes to show. After I set the foil down, I burnished the hell out of it, described the panel lines with a scalpel blade and re did the rivets with a ponce (spelling?) wheel.  After a while, it started to look convincing.  One good thing about the pool is that if you mess up a panel section, you can peel it and redo it.  

 

I also tried to use Bare Metal Foil but the way they sprayed the adhesive on makes the final surface very grainy and plastic looking even after a little smoothing with 0000 steel wool.  

[TimW]

Thanks for the tip and thanks for letting me use the pics.  

 

I should have sprayed the clear coat over my own parts.  I can still go back and do that and do a little respray of the silver first.  I started the foiling process and noticed it's not as easy as it looks.  I'm using the thinnest foil I could find since the heavy stuff (which I wanted to use in the first place) didn't allow the the panel lines and rivet holes to show. After I set the foil down, I burnished the hell out of it, described the panel lines with a scalpel blade and re did the rivets with a ponce (spelling?) wheel.  After a while, it started to look convincing.  One good thing about the pool is that if you mess up a panel section, you can peel it and redo it.  

 

I also tried to use Bare Metal Foil but the way they sprayed the adhesive on makes the final surface very grainy and plastic looking even after a little smoothing with 0000 steel wool.  

Wow...you've pretty much scared me away from trying to use foil  ...

 

But seriously, if you can get it to work it'd be interesting to see some details.  I tried it once many moons ago with an F-86 and things didn't work out so well.

 

I think you mean a pounce wheel?  One of those things used in sewing or tailoring?  A Ponce-Wheel sounds like something you'd find in the UK....:

 

The gloss coat really works well--You can also do washes over it if you're careful.  I have some pastels as well that I'm thinking of trying to do the dirty wing/exhaust effects.  I also have some sort of exhaust color for buffing airbrush stuff that I may try.    With an NMF aircraft, those oil leaks/stains really stand out.

 

Tim W.

[marauderdriver]

Wow...you've pretty much scared me away from trying to use foil  ...

 

But seriously, if you can get it to work it'd be interesting to see some details.  I tried it once many moons ago with an F-86 and things didn't work out so well.

 

I think you mean a pounce wheel?  One of those things used in sewing or tailoring?  A Ponce-Wheel sounds like something you'd find in the UK....:

 

The gloss coat really works well--You can also do washes over it if you're careful.  I have some pastels as well that I'm thinking of trying to do the dirty wing/exhaust effects.  I also have some sort of exhaust color for buffing airbrush stuff that I may try.    With an NMF aircraft, those oil leaks/stains really stand out.

 

Tim W.

       Nice build Tim

Foiling is not that hard to do it is like anything in modeling.... the more you do it the better the results. I've been foiling about 3 years on 7 models from 1/72 to several 1/32.

I'am also buildimg this kit on another posting and will foil it,but it's going to be awhile before I can start the foiling, If I can transfer some pictures to fotobucket I post some

Practice practice..............I started on a 21st century P-47 and got hooked

   Jack

[Out2gtcha]

Foiling CAN be tricky. Ive been at it all of my "second coming" modeling career since 2004 under the tutelage of master foiler Ken Friend (AKA "foiler" here @ LSP)

 

 

ONE of the many secrets of foiling (besides prep, prep prep of the surface to be foiled) is the use of varying thickness of foil. Imperative to getting the foil around complex compound curves is to use the absolute thickest and strongest foil you can get. The thicker foil will actually stretch, and even sand, unlike the thin stuff just rips.

 

I too have some BMF in my stash but basically the stuff IMHO is practically useless for foiling. I actually use it more for masking and seeing if I have all of the lumps and bumps sanded enough, as apposed to actually foiling with it.

 

One of the other secrets to getting a realistic look out of the foil (IMHO even the stock off the roll foil...........dull side & especially shiny side really doesnt look realistic at ALL) is graining.

 

I use anything from X, XX, XXX steel wool, to varying grades of sandpaper, to toothpaste to a chemical cocktail of bleach and lead/copper to egg shell water. It really does give the foil a realistic look. Off the roll foil just has way to much sheen to it for most any NM finish aircraft.

 

I have also found with the right process I have come up with, foil takes VERY well to paint..............even going as far as using NO primer and even paint masks.

 

The world is your foil oyster!

[LSP_Kevin]

Brian's advice on foiling is always worth listening to!

 

[...] as apposed to actually foiling with it.

 

I'll chime in here though and let my inner grammarian out for a sec: you want opposed here Brian, as there's no such word as 'apposed'. It comes from the family of words that includes oppose, opposite, opposition, etc. (Sorry, can't help myself!)

 

Kev