preditor Posted March 20, 2012 Share Posted March 20, 2012 Hi everyone i am building the very large he111 and was wondering what is the best way of glueing the clear parts, roy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaneBramage Posted March 20, 2012 Share Posted March 20, 2012 I too am interested. I have been using this G-S Hypo cement supposedly used in gluing watch crystals. It's very viscous and even with the needle delivery you have to be careful and it strings when you pull away. I found it behaves best if i warm it wrapped in a paper towel and place it under my arm for 15 min. (I know it sounds gross but I don't know a better way to do this- warm water doesn't seem to last as long....) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Juggernut Posted March 20, 2012 Share Posted March 20, 2012 (edited) Well, the answer depends a lot on which clear parts you're referring to and the time of installation. If you're installing clear parts such as protruding light lenses and whatnot you can use a tacky glue (brand name as well but Elmer's makes one too) or Testor's cement for clear parts. The Testors stuff isn't bad and holds fairly well. If you're installing windows from the inside of the fuselage and need them to be bonded strongly, I'd suggest using liquid cement and being very careful to just touch an applicator (such as a fine paintbrush) to only the edge of the joint between the window and the fuselage and let capilliary action do its thing. I also use super glue to install "in wing" position/landing light lenses on aircraft which also has the additional bonus that you can sand and polish the lens so it absolutely conforms to the curvature of the wing. Edited March 20, 2012 by TimC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Out2gtcha Posted March 20, 2012 Share Posted March 20, 2012 Well, the answer depends a lot on which clear parts you're referring to and the time of installation. If you're installing clear parts such as protruding light lenses and whatnot you can use a tacky glue (brand name as well but Elmer's makes one too) or Testor's cement for clear parts. The Testors stuff isn't bad and holds fairly well. If you're installing windows from the inside of the fuselage and need them to be bonded strongly, I'd suggest using liquid cement and being very careful to just touch an applicator (such as a fine paintbrush) to only the edge of the joint between the window and the fuselage and let capilliary action do its thing. I also use super glue to install "in wing" position/landing light lenses on aircraft which also has the additional bonus that you can sand and polish the lens so it absolutely conforms to the curvature of the wing. Id agree with that.......................I have also used a tiny applicator with very THIN CA in the same manor for canopies. As long as the clear plastic is coated in Future, and it fits well, you can use the tiny applicator to go round the seam and just touch it using capillary action to wick the thin CA around the joint. Brian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Colvin Posted March 21, 2012 Share Posted March 21, 2012 Depends on how you do it.......You may laugh but I have found future to work well in attaching clear parts (assuming that they fit very well). It takes a little time to set up but once it is dry it holds very well. It does not bond so do not hit it with any pressure/force. No mess easy to clean up. Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry Posted March 21, 2012 Share Posted March 21, 2012 For small parts I normally use Future or something similar, for canopies I use the Revell glue for clear parts, because it is on the thicker side, without thinner and holds well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaneBramage Posted March 21, 2012 Share Posted March 21, 2012 Does anyone here use that GS Hypo stuff? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fred Jack Posted March 21, 2012 Share Posted March 21, 2012 Hi everyone i am building the very large he111 and was wondering what is the best way of glueing the clear parts, roy. Are you talking about that huge Glass Nose? Glasnos if your Russian. That thing is probably big enough to rivet. White glue will certainly not be strong enough. I once read an article, I think it was FSM about gluing canopies with 'Super Glue.' By using very small amounts and building up the layers, you avoid the fume etching that usually occurs. I haven't tried it, but it sound okay. Try it on a few pieces of sprue, first to test it out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Out2gtcha Posted March 21, 2012 Share Posted March 21, 2012 I once read an article, I think it was FSM about gluing canopies with 'Super Glue.' By using very small amounts and building up the layers, you avoid the fume etching that usually occurs. I haven't tried it, but it sound okay. Try it on a few pieces of sprue, first to test it out. As stated above, I use CA all the time with almost ALL my clear parts. The issue is CA fumes will etch the clear parts.................unless you soak them in Future first. Then the CA fumes have 0 effect on the clear parts. Super thin CA works awesome for this purpose, as using capillary action, it wicks into the space between the clear and plastic parts. As with any joint and in particular clear part joints, the fit has to be very good for this process to work correctly. Brian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted March 21, 2012 Share Posted March 21, 2012 The issue is CA fumes will etch the clear parts [...] Actually, from what I understand this isn't strictly accurate (*). What the fumes from the curing CA do is settle on the clear parts, thus clouding them. There's no etching involved, per se. The coating of floor polish simply discourages the fumes from settling, and as long as they can vent out somewhere, CA is perfectly safe to use. (* Of course, if someone has some technical or scientific proof that etching actually occurs, I'm happy to stand corrected.) Kev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KOTR Posted March 21, 2012 Share Posted March 21, 2012 From my experience, when using CA, try to use a bottle that hasn't been open for to long. Older bottles tend to fog more. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Ray Posted March 22, 2012 Share Posted March 22, 2012 Does anyone here use that GS Hypo stuff? I have used it. And like you said, the worst part is the strings it creates. You have to be really careful. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Out2gtcha Posted March 22, 2012 Share Posted March 22, 2012 (edited) Actually, from what I understand this isn't strictly accurate (*). What the fumes from the curing CA do is settle on the clear parts, thus clouding them. There's no etching involved, per se. The coating of floor polish simply discourages the fumes from settling, and as long as they can vent out somewhere, CA is perfectly safe to use. (* Of course, if someone has some technical or scientific proof that etching actually occurs, I'm happy to stand corrected.) Kev What I meant was actually the end result, which is the plastic being etched ( referring to my own definition of etched, being anything permanently scribed, scratched or put into the surface that does/will not come off) or marred in the end by the CA. Brian Edited March 22, 2012 by Out2gtcha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted March 22, 2012 Share Posted March 22, 2012 What I meant was actually the end result, which is the plastic being etched ( referring to my own definition of etched, being anything permanently scribed, scratched or put into the surface that does/will not come off) or marred in the end by the CA. Brian Yeah, I figured you were using the term loosely Brian. I was just being pedantic. Ironically, modelling is about the only one of life's pursuits where I'm not totally anal. I'm especially anal about language (and the other way around). Kev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HL-10 Posted March 22, 2012 Share Posted March 22, 2012 With My Heinkel, once I ensured I had as perfect a fit as possible, I used Humbrol liquid poly applied with a fine brush for all the transparent parts. No problems at all, and a nice strong fit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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