Soviet MiG-23M

[RedStar]

I've been promising to get this build on-line for some time now, and have finally taken the time to get the photos uploaded.

 

This project is to build a MiG-23M (Soviet MiG-23MF) out of the Trumpeter kit. There's very little modification required to backdate the MiG-23MF to a MiG-23M (I'll go over that in the appropriate spot).

 

Here's what's going into the project:

 

Trumpeter MiG-23MF kit

Aires MiG-23MF Cockpit

Aires MiG-23 Wheel Wells

Aires MiG-23 Engine/Afterburner (Open)

Selected bits of Eduard etched

Profimodeler MiG-23 Exterior

Profimodeler MiG-23 Intakes

Zactomodels MiG-23 Pylons

Zactomodels MiG-23 Intake Update

Zactomodels Dual R-60 Launcher

Zactomodels R-60 Missiles

Zactomodels R-23R Missiles (because Zactoman promised )

Linden Hill Decals

 

And probably some other stuff that I'm forgetting...

 

This is an interesting project as there's a lot of sub-assemblies that you have to build before you can get the whole thing together. I'll cover those things as I go through the build.

 

But to kick things off, how about a primer on how I paint cockpits. Some of you won't care, but I get asked about this all the time.

Edited February 29, 2012 by pcotcher

[RedStar]

First thing required for a good cockpit, especially for anything large scale is good reference - the size and scale of detail available, especially when you use aftermarket is just staggering and is only getting better.

 

 

 

It also doesn't hurt to have more than one available just to see subtle differences, particularly in variants. Even after having good references available, I found that I had to do some on-line searches to find full coverage of the details of the cockpit. While the references I had were good, there was no coverage of the aft portion of the port console/sidewall.

 

A brief google search and voila:

 

 

So with those references in hand, I have all the detail I need to paint the magnificent Aires cockpit!

[RedStar]

I start by removing the parts from the carrier:

 

 

Good old Floquil NYC Jade is a great starting point for "that color" - of course remember, this color really only applies to late MiG-21s, MiG-23s, 25s, 27s and 31s. It's not used across the board for Soviet cockpits.

 

 

The other thing to note about this color is that it's good as long as you don't have any pre-painted photo-etch that you're going to use in the project. Since I'm using the Aires set, I can start wherever I want for the base color. If you use the Eduard pre-painted etch, you have to start with a much deeper shade of green.

 

Base coat the parts:

 

 

The next step is to use a fine detail brush - I use anything from a #1 down to a 20/0:

 

 

To pick out the major color areas of the cockpit, things like red switches, switch covers, cables, cable ducts, etc. Anything that's radically different from the base color of the cockpit:

 

 

 

 

Looks good, but it still doesn't look right, or like a finished cockpit...

 

Next step is to lay down a clear gloss layer over your base work. Doesn't really show well in the photos, but since I use oils and enamels for my wash work, I use Future/Kleer as my gloss. You always want to use the opposite medium from your wash (most of you know this, but for those that don't - important safety tip!). If you use acryllics for your wash work, use an enamel/oil/lacquer based gloss.

 

At this point, I think I lost some photos (I'll post them if I find them). But after your gloss has had a chance to dry. You then put a wash over the details of the cockpit. Model Master Burnt Umber works very well with this Soviet cockpit green. Try to be sparing as you put it on. The gloss coat will cause it to run into all the cracks and crevices. This effectively brings out the shadows in your detail.

 

I always strip some of the wash back out, particularly on low use areas of the cockpit, but then on the tub part, I leave it be, as that's the part that gets dirty with ongoing use.

 

Next I flat coat over the wash to blend the finish. And at this point, I use a filbert (sp?) brush to dry brush and pick out details. I make sure 90% of the paint is off the brush before I start, as I DON'T want to over do it. Test before you put it on the model. The tracing paper that I use as a work surface when I'm painting is an excellent surface to wipe the paint off - it's fiberless and won't put a bunch of garbage on your brush like paper towel or similar.

[RedStar]

The end result looks like this:

 

 

 

 

 

I'll review bits of the technique when I get to the wheel wells, as the process is very similar.

[mark31]

you hae my attention on these one.

 

Very nice work on the pit.

 

Mark

[Loic]

Mine too !

[LSP_Kevin]

Nice work Paul!

 

Kev

[LSP_K2]

Looks good to me so far.

[dodgem37]

Love that!

 

Sincerely,

Mark

[flankers]

One of my favorite planes

[scvrobeson]

This looks awesome! Those Migs did sure get dirty, and you're doing a great job with the cockpit. Looks nice and used. Keep up the great work!

 

 

Matt

[Youngtiger1]

Nice subject Paul. I like what you have for reference.

[RedStar]

Okay, since Hagar asked about the intakes I'll go ahead and post what I did here.

 

The issue with the intake is that the upper outside corner is too square. It should match the curvature of the lower outside corner. This is an easy correction to do. Zactoman shows one method on his site, I tried that but wasn't satisfied that I got the "curve" right, so I started over.

 

The first thing I did was remove the corner of the intake that needs to be "curved" and insert a chunk of evergreen stock that can be sanded to shape:

 

 

Now, to determine what needs to be removed:

 

1) Mark the spot on the intake lip where the curve should start and finish - these should be the borders of what needs to be removed.

2) Mark the rear of where the curve should end (about 3/4" back from the LE)

 

These three points make a sort of triangle that should be removed.

 

Once you have this removed. Insert your evergreen stock, don't worry about it being precise, just make sure it matches with the sides. Once that's firmly glued in place and set, sand the front of the part to be flush with the LE of the intake.

 

Next, make a wire template to match the lower curve of the intake. I used a piece of paper clip to make the "template:"

 

 

Put your template over the corner to be shaped, and tape it in place, matching the OUTSIDE of the straight edges just inside of the lip of the intake. This will put the outside of the curve in the correct spot to mark the new corner that needs to be shaped from the evergreen plug:

 

 

Trace the curve with a marker:

 

 

And sand to that shape:

 

 

Pretty simple really, it only took me about 30 minutes net to do both intakes (excluding drying time on the glue).

 

Once you're done with gross shaping a little bit of sanding/filing will be required to blend everything together. I then coated with Mr. Surfacer and polished everything out and was ready to move on to the inside details.

[RedStar]

While we're on the intakes, I might as well show the photoetched bits that I added to the insides. These are from the Profimodeler sets, and from what I can see, they best represent the early intake that I'm trying to duplicate for my MiG-23M.

 

 

I think I even still have a couple of those sets available if anyone's interested. The brackets for the blow-in doors are a nice touch. No other detail set has offered that detail. It'll provide just enough relief inside the intake to help break up the monotony.

[A.Wolf Grant]

<< where's the like button?? >>

 

Terrific stuff - very clever way of determining the curve radius of the intake. Am going to enjoy this one.

 

Grant.