Fw190 D-9 "Red 18" I./Erg. KG (J) Plzeň, Czechoslovakia

[Kahunaminor]

Nick you are doing really well. The details you have incorporated will go to make your effort all the better. I wish I had taken more time with my build. Maybe next time! Keep up the good work

[nmayhew]

hi guys

 

sorry for lack of updates - i've been plugging away here and there but only just got round to uploading all the pics - you know how it is!

 

anyway, first use of Alclad (over their own primer, but only the grey one as i'm not hat fussed about NMF here)

i was very pleased - it sprays direct from teh bottle better than any paints i have used (and this is limited to tamiya acrylic and pollyscale acrylic, but hey ho)

 

 

then used a Mig dark wash to weather a bit - you can "pin wash" staright away with no need for gloss coat, the alclad finish is THAT smooth

 

 

 

no gloss coat either here, where i should have done, but this is the top of the engine plug and will be tucked away!

 

 

the bottle is painted using my old humbrol enamels which all work perfectly despite not having been opened in anger for quite literally 10 years!

 

 

i am pleased i bothered with the bottle (whatever it actually is) as you can see it quite clearly even through all the pipes and what not!

 

 

more in a bit...

[nmayhew]

here is a quick dry fit to give you a better idea of what will be visible

 

 

while i was there, i also had a look at what would be needed for the ammo ejection chutes (they do not reach in the kit, and also need increasing in "profile"

 

 

i had a spare moment so removed the backing from the inside of the wheel well cover to hollow out the chute

 

i used small sprue cutters and then a bit of sanding - it was very simple

 

 

 

i then (having another spare moment!) gave the instrument panels and cockpit a coat of future (brushed on - waay easier than fiddling with airbrush, and the finsh turned out fine for small parts)

 

 

back to the engine plug next...

[nmayhew]

after craning my neck through many more degrees than it is supposed to move i realised that to accurately replicate the engine plug area was pretty much impossible for me

 

however, i could make it look a whole lot better with some additional plumbing, even if might not have been 100% spot on

 

i do however note with thanks all the help i received from LSPers who sent pics for me - chers guys!

 

i started to use 0.5mm lead wire from PlusModel, drilling the holes with a 0.8mm bit (should have used a smaller one - oh well)

 

 

 

i then stared at the top of the plug area and realised that hasegawa have moulded what should be a pipe into the one of the "boxes", so from the side it will look a bit shabby if everything else is wired and hosed etc

 

so it had to go!

 

 

Spitfire at this time was distinctly unmoved...

 

 

pics of (almost) finished engine plug next...

[Out2gtcha]

Very nice looking!

I do like the little colorful details that stand out on builds like this. I always tend to paint things like that bottle as bright a color as is allowed in documentation (and sometimes even brighter! ) As I think even in 1/32 vs 1:1 details like that leap out at you more easily on a model when they have high(er) contrasting color like that.

 

Cant see it from the last angle, but it looks like ull be able to see the bottle even with the belly/gear cutout plate on and the fuse buttoned up.

 

Im not 190 expert but it looks really good to me so far! Cheers -

 

(In typical cat fashion I noticed Spitfire sleeping in the only sliver of sunlight in the pic! )

 

Brian

[nmayhew]

so here is the same bit after the repair

 

 

and the engine plug doing a passable impression of Emmental cheese!

 

 

and then once everything is connected / glued and wires painted black

 

 

 

 

 

i am quite pleased with how it looks

i used a few bits of spare photo etch strip to simulate the ties which keep bundles of wires together

lead foil would have been much better but i don't have any

[nmayhew]

i was wondering how i would make the ejection chutes from little strips of plasticard, and then realised i could bend the sheets just like phot etch

 

 

so at least i know how i will go about that; i will only do it once the plug is in place and i know exactly the dimensions required

 

i then took the plunge and chopped the kit fuselage part of the instrument panel cover

i did this because ddepsite the MDC part looking like it is from 1/48, a numbe rof LSPers said put the resin in boiling water and give it a squish and a bend!

i did that and it seemed to work!

 

first cut using small razor saw

 

 

clipped rest with small sprue cutters - careful here, they have to be small ones as large cutters sould tear a=or warp the fuselage

 

 

and then sanded the rest off - it was quite simple actually!

 

 

that's it for now...

 

cheers

 

Nick

[Wurzacher]

Awesome work! How could you paint all these lines black when glued in place? There is no way for a paint brush...

Or did Spitfire help with its little paws?

 

Thomas

[nmayhew]

ok, i'm back again!

 

@Brian

yes i think the bottle will be visible so i'm pleased i spiced it up a bit!

as for Spitfire, yup cats definitely have a knack for things like that; whenever we have the heated floor on in the bathroom, that suddenly becomes his spot for the night!

 

@Thomas

well actually it WASN'T that hard - if you look closely, most of the wires are on the top, or at least accessible from the side

trying to paint this once in the fuselage would be quite simply impossible though

 

anyway, i started to look at the wheel well (Aires set) area today, and have a question for the 190 / resin experten in a moment...

 

so, you get a piece like this for each wheel well, so i set about sawing off the casting block, which went quite well for the first one

 

 

 

i actually managed to remove the entire block in one go, even though it is a slight compound curve at the back, and not just flat

so well done me

 

 

here is what you get:

 

compared to the kit well, which i have to say is actually pretty good, and a decent point from which to detail yourself further (not sure about drilling extra holes in the bracing sections though, but that is for another day)

 

the other side i somehow got my angles wrong and cut into the well a little - luckily i realised quite quickly

i pasted superglue on the back to reinforce the area i messed up, so no real harm done - thank God!

 

 

some test fitting next...

[nmayhew]

here;s another shot of the kit wells, which have a brace attached which ensures a correct dihedral to the wings (nice touch)

 

i plan to use this bit

 

 

as you can see i just chopped off the actual well bit and kept the brace. here it is dry-fitted on the wing

 

 

you can see why it will be useful for aligning everything

 

 

and from the other side

 

 

sanded down a bit more, the resin wells fit nicely on the wing, and should not be too thick (i test fitted and the wing "clammed up" ok - not pictured)

 

 

this tiny bit of tab will have to be snipped for the resin back plate to fit nice and snug but that's no problem at all

 

 

my real question / problem is this:

 

i taped both wells in place - here they are tightly against the outer edge of the kit parts

 

 

BUT the back plate is rather loose in the middle when i slotted that in!!!

 

 

so you either have a gap where the back plate joins the wells, or if they are tight together, you have a gap here. where the rein well meet the kit part where the landing gear oleo goes in (crappy description i know - sorry!)

 

 

any ideas??

 

i'm especially hoping some guys with experience of this set can chime in please

 

cheers

 

Nick

[dodgem37]

Can you show us what the sunny side looks like?

 

Sincerely,

Mark

[nmayhew]

Can you show us what the sunny side looks like?

 

Sincerely,

Mark

 

err, not sure what you mean?

 

i noticed that JamesH in his build using the same resin set glued all 3 bits together before fitting to the wing as far as i can make out...

[Tudor Gh]

Your work is amazing!! I admire the effort you're putting in this project!

 

Looking forward to new pictures!!

[Kagemusha]

I think Mark means posting pics of what the gaps look like from the other side looking into the wells, would sanding down an edge or two of the wells which you'll glue to the wing solve the problem? Maybe compare them to the kit parts? Nice work!

[JRutman]

Good work so far and a very well thought out presentation with the pics and dialogue. If it was me,I would make sure that pesky gap was in a position that was the easiest to fix. Then I would insert the corresponding width of plastic card and sand it off! My Dad said a good carpenter can always hide his mistakes well! LOL

J