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dodgem37

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Everything posted by dodgem37

  1. Take the picture from 32 feet. Then determine if you can see the rivets. Sincerely, Mark
  2. I have a product manufactured by Mega Tool, of Switzerland. It contains 23 different sized pointed concave ended shafts, and a handle. The product is the same as the MDC product but with more shaft options. I've searched the web for a link to Mega Tool of Switzerland but could not find one. If you'd like, I could take a picture of it and post it so you could see what it looks like. Unfortunately, for the life of me, I don't remember from whom I bought it. Sincerely, Mark
  3. YOW!! Jerry, you are a monster! Super job. Thanks for sharing. Sincerely, Mark
  4. Love those clipped wing fast backs!! Great job. Impressively thin exhausts too. Sincerely, Mark
  5. Micro Mark http://www.micromark.com/MICRO-MARK-PRO-ET...YSTEM,8346.html It has a manual. It should explain the process thoroughly. Otherwise, 'how can I get the PE parts to look like the ones from Eduard. Like they are all seperated already ' To separate the pieces you do not have an image on the negative that connects each part. This means that each part is a stand-alone part. When you resist (put the image area on) the metal, the part with the resist will not be etched by the acid. The part without the resist will be etched. So, if you don't connect the parts, there will be no connecting part to remove. The reason for the connecting part is so the parts aren't loose. Can you image if you are Eduard and you're etching a zillion different parts and they're not connected? Pandamonium! I summise the adhesive backing they use is not effected by the etching solution. So they can etch away the connecting pieces. Now for the hard one: 'My second question is, how do you get color on a PE part like the ones from Eduard.' I've thought about this since I've seen them, having worked with the printing industry, and all. I can only summize that the color is applied through a stencil. I haven't quite figured out how. It may be printed, or it may be mechanically airbrushed. I guess I can bring one to a printer and they may know. Anyway, hope this is helpful Sincerely, Mark
  6. I gotta say I groove on this clipped winged fast back. Great job. Sincerely, Mark
  7. A picture is worth a thousand words. Not only are the results of your efforts in building the aircraft truly excellent, but your diarama setting enhances what you have done even more so. Good job Brian. Thanks for sharing this build. Sincerely, Mark
  8. Crash, My bad. I gave you a link to a 1/24th decal. Here is the 1/32nd. http://www.nexternal.com/SBM/images/sky32029.jpg Sincerely, Mark
  9. Charles, My apologies for responding so late to you question. I opened the link from the thumbnail. I right clicked and went to properties at the bottom of the drop-down menu. I copied the URL and pasted it into my response, making it a direct link. Sincerely, Mark
  10. IDF http://www.spruebrothers.com/Nexternal/132...stang-32029.htm Sincerely, Mark
  11. Nothing wrong with that show. Good going. Sincerely, Mark
  12. I saw your bird on another site. I loved it there and I love it here. Great job. Thanks for sharing. Sincerely, Mark
  13. That! is too groovy for words. Great job. Sincerely, Mark
  14. Brother, You are the bomb. Sincerely, Mark
  15. Vasko, Your work has been and will continue to be a true contribution to the growth of the hobby. Many thanks for your lifes' work. Sincerely, Mark
  16. YOW!! To cool for school! Fantastico! Sincerely, Mark
  17. That is one groovey scheme! I sure like those yellow wings. Maybe I can incorporate that into my next build. Thanks for sharing. Sincerely, Mark
  18. 'A unique and colorful scheme for sure, although entirely ficticious.' Who knew? Sincerely, Mark
  19. This is something I started working on after that Dragon P-51D. It's gloss coated. I stopped working on it because I am disappointed with the top wing to fusalage connection and the traps between the colors. Right now I'm working on a tank for a build on another site. I'd like to think I'll get back to it and refinish it, but I don't know. The paint job was really a bear. To think I need to repaint it is a daunting thought to me. The Instrument Panel. I sanded down the rudder pedals and then removed the 'plastic film'. I tried to paint the white in the IP dials and failed. So I use a white prismacolor pencil. Way back on the wing root you may be able to notice I scribed that panel line that is missing on the top wing but is on the lower wing. I made round rivets with some rivet tool I bought. The tool is similar to the one MDC sells but has about a jillion shafts with different sized indents. Right side cockpit. I painted the wrong area of the gas line. I'll have to correct this. I threw in some extra tubing and stuff for the oxygen regulator to make it look a little more busy. Left side cockpit. The throttle and stuff is made with lead foil I think. It's bent out of position. I have to correct the angle. 3/4 front left view. The hole in the back deck is so I can pop out the door from the inside before I attached the wings. The door was too thick so I needed to sand it down. The hole allowed me to pop the door out while I was checking the fit. I wonder where the door is? 3/4 left rear. Figuring out the re-juxtapositioning of the national colors on a dropped flap was a challenge. Whether rightly or wrongly, I don't know, but I blanked off the wing root at the radiator flaps. 3/4 right rear. 3/4 front left view. It's barely noticeable but I cut out the panel under near the gun tube and located a half rounded piece of metal under the gun. The gun is drilled out. A landing gear. I painted tape to represent a leather boot on the oleo. I saw that somewhere. The door will cover the seam. The brake line has a leather flex hose. I saw that somewhere too. The tire and wheel will cover up the fact that it is not connected to anything. The door will hide the rest. I opened up the scissor. A wild spiral. A drawing I made to figure out how I needed to mask the spiral. The little tick marks with numbers are the locations of the propeller blades. I did 2 sets. Marked with 1's and 2's. That way I would know the color onto which the blades fell. I don't think it mattered in the end. I don't remember. Thanks for looking. Sincerely, Mark
  20. Thanks everyone, you're very generous. And the BEST! Alberto-I will work on my lighting! Sincerely, Mark
  21. I don't usually show my work, except at local meetings, but I thought I'd throw caution to the wind and show the world a project I did for my wife. My wife asked me to build her an airplane, so when I found these Green Nosed Mustang decals with her name (Janet), it was only a matter of time before I sat down and labored through the process of building an airplane once again. So, after over 20 some odd years of armor building, I managed to finish this: Painted checker board, fitted windshield. A littles silvering to 'Janet'. Oh well. Stenciled codes and serial number. Codes are my wifes' initials. Serial number is her birthdate (April 7, 1958). I goofed and didn't cover the fuselage star when I did some invasion stripe touch up, or something, and removed some of the decal. So I painted the spot aluminum. The canopy is futured. The kit national markings were from hunger. No amount of Sol would settle them down. Painted fuel caps and canopy latches. I painted the flaps laquer aluminum. When I removed the tape some paint pulled off. You can see where the .50's don't have covers on this wing. The other wing they do. I didn't like the seam running thru so I sanded off the covers. I rounded some tube and fit it to the other wing. That wing was able to accept the covers because I did not finish the opening by sanding it 'to scale thickness', as it were, like I did this wing. The rockets don't fit to their base and the aux. fuel tank brace area needs work The struts gave me a fit. For those of you who have built this kit, you'll know. I built two of the same strut. The tires flop around on the rims so I had to shim them so the tires would fit. I absolutely hated the way the struts fit into the wing. Some detail painting. This was probably the most fun I had with the kit. The bottom of the wing has a pebble texture. I sanded some of it off before I quit. I think this is the cause for the light scratchy spots in the central grey area. But maybe not. Anyway, what's done is done. I hope you like it. Thanks for looking. Sincerely, Mark
  22. 'The only time I know of red borders, was with the change to 4 tone camouflage and star and bar with the short lived red border late 1943-early 1944 Do you have any aditional info on this?' Thanks Alan. I don't know anything about this. I usually build armor, from which I'm taking a sabbatical, and building a few aircraft. Sincerely, Mark
  23. Folks, Don't Marine Corps aircraft have red borders on the national insignia? Thanks, Mark
  24. Lothar, Great job! Super duper! Love the shading, the highlights, and the demarcation line accents. Thanks for sharing. Sincerely, Mark
  25. Champher the inside edge. Sincerely, Mark
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