dodgem37

What drawing program do you have, if any? Sincerely, Mark

Thank you for your really nice compliment, Kevin. It was a bummer. I've already tracked down what I need to make the changes. I don't like to leave projects hanging. In the meantime I'll mosey back over to the K-4 build. Thanks for looking in. Sincerely, Mark

That is a beautiful airplane. Sincerely, Mark

I don't know of a tutorial, but I did it this way to enlarge scanned drawings to help me build the 21cm rocket launchers: Scan the drawing. Measure an aspect of the model. I measured a fuselage panel. Open in Photoshop. Turn on ruler. Draw an object with a dimension (length, width, or height - in my case I drew a rectangle - I only needed the length) of the size you need (measured from an aspect of the model). Enlarge that aspect of the drawing to match the size of the drawn object. Save. Print. I hope this is helpful Sincerely, Mark

That is one nice piece of work. Sincerely, Mark

Well, the rockets showed up in the mail while I was away, and it would have been real nice if they had fit into what I had done. But they didn't. The rocket is 7mm in diameter, which is the outside diameter of my tube. So I guess the 21cm means rocket, and not tube! Dog me. I've looked thru my stash of brass tubing and found something that looks to scale diameter-wise and that they will fit into, but there isn't room to include rails, which means there won't be room for the internal wiring and junction box. The next tube up allows the other tube to telescope within, but it appears to have just a bit too big of a diameter for scale. I'll double check. I have a stash of 9/32" plastic tube, but I'd do better with an 8mm or 5/16" outside diameter. So before I start drilling and hacking brass, I'll see if I can track down some 8mm-5/16" O.D. plastic tube. I also need a drill bit to match. Oh well. Back to the drawing board. Thanks for looking in. Sincerely, Mark

. . . 'I will do some parts for the new Tamiya kit and I also am doing some parts for the 1/24 trumpy and airfix P-51 kits' . . . Jerry, I've lost track. Who's going to be do your casting? Many thanks. Sincerely, Mark

Don, Great stuff. The ads will accompany the kit nicely. As an avid fan of PT's, and artist John Steel, I've picked up the following, also from eBay: Lindberg, 1/64 Elco PT 109, art by John Steel Revell, 1/72(?) Higgins PT 212, art by John Steel Revell, 1/72 Elco PT 109, art by John Steel Found them here: http://shop.ebay.com/ykostudio/m.html?_nkw=pt&_sacat=0&_odkw=&_osacat=0&_trksid=p3911.c0.m270.l1313 Sincerely, Mark

Most excellent. Sincerely, Mark

What an absolutely champion conversion. Sincerely, Mark

http://109lair.hobbyvista.com/index1024.htm The belt is mounted to the outside face of the seat opposite the location of the fastener. Sincerely, Mark

Side of the seat. This is the MDC Bf109G seat. To the right, on the side, within the indent, you will see a fastener. This is the fastener for the lap belt. Sincerely, Mark

http://www.starduststudios.com/da.htm This painting may be accurate enough. Sincerely, Mark

Kagemusha, Thank you! I think. Kevin, I'm good with that. Thank you. Imagery is few and far between on this subject. Especially the side facing inward. The best illustrations I just happen (truly quite by accident) to have is from this pub: There are two sets of pages with really good drawings. It does have a few photos, but the illustrations are more informative. It just doesn't make sense to me that a Nebelwerfer would have the firing hardware on the outside and an aircraft werfer would have the same hardware on the inside. I'll make the second one with the hardware on the outside and compare. If I have to make a third to make a pair that's no big deal to me. Thanks for looking in. Sincerely, Mark

Damn! Up to your usual superlative standards. Good job. Did you turn these parts on a lathe? If so, what materials did you use? What type of wire is that? I recognize the reflective quality, but I can't place it. And the color bands, what material is that? They look continuous, not as if it is wrapped tape. Thanks in advance. Sincerely, Mark

'any chance you can go into the mastering business??' I don't know, Nick. If a Vender happens to peruse this thread and likes what they see and contacts me then I'll do it. But I just don't have the initiative to begin the process. 'I think I may have some nice illustrations around here for these, but it looks like you don't need any help.' Kevin, If you have imagery I'd be happy to receive it. It could only help fill in the spaces. A few more pics. I wasn't happy with the way things were going when I was working on the kit. Things just weren't working out like I had hoped. I had drilled the holes thru on the aircraft during construction so the arm base was always moving. So I drew things up on a G-6 wing to find out what part of the problem was. As you can see, the outlying holes are not square to each other. Knowing that solved a big alignment problem. So I drew everything up on an index card, and when set on my desk gave me a secure base. I had read that the optimum mounting angle was 7 degrees, but it varied due to field installation and what-not. So I drew up a 7 degree angle and measured the front and rear end HOFF, height-off-finished-floor, as we used to say in the trade. And made this. I used .020 rod for the arm, as the wire without the insulation is .020 in diameter. The rod allowed me to easily find the end angle cuts I needed to make for a snug fit. Arms sit on a punched disc. Ignition wire is .010 lead wire. 1 arm assembled and glued in place. Here I just wanted to show how the ignition wire was worked out. This condition is speculative. The drawing I have shows the outside, and opposite, face and the ignition wire on the opposite side as a hidden line. Photos seem to indicate the wire enters the body at the top and the drawings show a travel line down the side and then straight back to a junction box. I ran the wire along the guide rail. The 'igniter' wire, the curved wire, is not shown in the illustration. That is shown on a 21cm Nebelwerfer. But on a 21cm Nebelwerfer all ignition stuff is on the outside of the tube. So maybe I interpreted the drawing wrong. I don't know. I had read that there is a base-plate as well. I need to do some sanding to get it in the round. A 21cm Nebelwerfer. Notice the igniter wire can be rotated out of position, and the latch that I suppose is the stop. Gotta go pack. Thanks for looking in. Sincerely, Mark

Good God, Ralph. You are one of the most gifted illusionists I have ever seen. And on top of that, your preliminary building is so clean! Sincerely, Mark

OMG! I wish you a speedy recovery and Gods' further blessings of life. Sincerely, Mark

That circuit breaker tells the tale. If I remember correctly, this is a pre-production K-4. A test bed for cockpit layout. The closed circuit breaker was changed for the production run to one with buttons, as seen in the Hasegawa kit. I'll have to track that down tho and confirm it. Sincerely, Mark Oh, my apologies, the English part of the caption tells the story.

A lovely build, Nick. Not quite worth the aggrivation during the process at times, but once completed, quite an accomplishment. Cheers! Sincerely, Mark

That is some dang nice work, Mike. Welcome aboard. Sincerely, Mark

Beautiful work and a smart tip on paint build-up removal. Thanks for sharing. Sincerely, Mark

Daniel Zamarbide ain't got nothing on you. Dang good work on a major effort. Sincerely, Mark

Thank you, Matt. Thank you, Troy. I hope to finish at least one and have everything posted before I run off Sunday for a week of holiday. Parts for a rear arm. The left piece is insulation that represents the base which is welded to the tube. The 1mm hex, I suppose, is attached to the lower arm. It is rotated into or out of the top tube to shorten or and lengthen the bottom spacing. The .5mm nut, I believe, is a tension nut. Then the arm, which represents both top and bottom arms, is bent at the base to enter the wing, and finishing it off is a base washer. A little big, I think. I mostly wanted to show the base and the location of the arms as they relate to the tube in this photo. The hole will receive the electrical conduit, rightly or wrongly. I punched out a disc and drilled a hole in its center, cut an access, rounded the lower lip then cut the top square to the top lip and applied it to .010 x .060 strip. I also punched a couple of hex bolts. I think from the bottom of the wing to the top of the tube is 6mm. Rear arm is 11mm. Front arm is 10mm. The at-the-tube location of the arms is based on drawings and photographs. The rear is mid way between bolt heads 2 & 3, fairly in alignment with the bolts. The angle of the rear arm allows for a square enough attachment point. The front still needs work, tho. I've got to sand the face at an angle, which I'll do later. My apologies for the poor focus. The three guide rails are in. The rear arm is assembled. The hanger ring is 2mm deep with a 2mm stem which inserts into the 2mm base (drilled .040 maybe?) which is attached to the tube. I don't recall the hanger ring rod diameter. I measured 2mm and squeezed the rod in a smooth faced plier, sanded the sides square, round sanded the top, drilled 2 holes, carefully scribed between the holes and scraped out that which I wanted removed. Luckily it fit the hook. Thanks for looking in. Sincerely, Mark

I marvel at how delicately you finish your builds. Sincerely, Mark