Hagar

I ordered this last weekend. Seeing these pics has got me all fired up. I can hardly wait for it to arrive
James

One recommendation for the tail: cautiously remove as much as possible the resin in the tail with drills. I succeeded in removing close to one third of the total weight. If you don't do that you have to add a lot of weight in the nose to compensate and this is generally a problem for the LG legs. 
 
Work slowly as even without the conversion the fit of the large part is not really good on some kits. It is probably linked to plastic distorsion. If your kit has such a problem, take a lot of care to align and glue the parts to avoid damaging the very fine rivet engraving with sanding. 
 
Hth 
 
Thierry 

Hi James,
 
I built the F8 a few years ago here:
 
https://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?/topic/52641-raaf-gloster-meteor-f8-finished/

The kit itself is pretty much vice-free, and Paul Fisher's stuff is second to none.

This  is rather unlikely at the moment. First - to play fair - I would need a professional licence, as everything is designed with a free non-commercial software. Then there is our bureaucracy. In my country, we have a strange masochistic proclivity for excessive bureaucracy
Though I appreciate all your kind words, the printed parts are far way from perfect. And I can't do some details like engines, guns or reasonable wheel on my own.  And the experts out there would - justifiably - demand my stoning due to the endless list of inaccuracies    I don't like stoning
Finally there ist time - after several started but unfinshed projects, I would be happy to acutually finish on model. Since my holidays  are ending today, I'm already afraid that progress could again slow down.
 
But there is hope. As mentioned above, there are rumors about a Resin Marauder kit from Resin2detail.
 
Cheers
Alex

Gorgeous.
James

My favorite lozenge decals are made by Aviattic. They also have some neat upgrades and figures for your WWI a/c. Well now they have announced their first kit. A 1/32 Ansaldo Balilla A1 - Italian Fighter of 1918 in multimedia and resin. Here is the box top painted by Ron Cole.


 
Couple more shots.







Spring release with pre-order and "Collectors Editions" announced before that.

http://www.aviattic.co.uk/aviattic.co.uk/Welcome.html
 
James

I paint the base coat using Tamiya Dark yellow usually. Sometimes I'll use flesh. Big thing is experiment a bit with colours.
Then I paint on an oil paint. Burnt Sienna and Burnt Umber are my favorites. I then drag a clean brush along in the direction of wood grain. I also use the foam from AM products to drag along as it leaves some very nice grain marks. Then I add dabs of Yellow ochre or brown or some other contrasting oil paint and drag that along. It adds depth to the wood and gives you different shades.
When all dry I spray on either Tamiya clear yellow or orange or a mixture depending on what I want to achieve.
Some hints. Put the oil paints on some card stock, I use the presentation cards or recipe cards. This will wick out some of the lindseed oil and usually my paint will dry over night.
 
Here is the Hannover CL.II I am working on and having used these techniques.
 

 

 

 

 
Hope that helps some.
James

I paint the base coat using Tamiya Dark yellow usually. Sometimes I'll use flesh. Big thing is experiment a bit with colours.
Then I paint on an oil paint. Burnt Sienna and Burnt Umber are my favorites. I then drag a clean brush along in the direction of wood grain. I also use the foam from AM products to drag along as it leaves some very nice grain marks. Then I add dabs of Yellow ochre or brown or some other contrasting oil paint and drag that along. It adds depth to the wood and gives you different shades.
When all dry I spray on either Tamiya clear yellow or orange or a mixture depending on what I want to achieve.
Some hints. Put the oil paints on some card stock, I use the presentation cards or recipe cards. This will wick out some of the lindseed oil and usually my paint will dry over night.
 
Here is the Hannover CL.II I am working on and having used these techniques.
 

 

 

 

 
Hope that helps some.
James

I paint the base coat using Tamiya Dark yellow usually. Sometimes I'll use flesh. Big thing is experiment a bit with colours.
Then I paint on an oil paint. Burnt Sienna and Burnt Umber are my favorites. I then drag a clean brush along in the direction of wood grain. I also use the foam from AM products to drag along as it leaves some very nice grain marks. Then I add dabs of Yellow ochre or brown or some other contrasting oil paint and drag that along. It adds depth to the wood and gives you different shades.
When all dry I spray on either Tamiya clear yellow or orange or a mixture depending on what I want to achieve.
Some hints. Put the oil paints on some card stock, I use the presentation cards or recipe cards. This will wick out some of the lindseed oil and usually my paint will dry over night.
 
Here is the Hannover CL.II I am working on and having used these techniques.
 

 

 

 

 
Hope that helps some.
James

I paint the base coat using Tamiya Dark yellow usually. Sometimes I'll use flesh. Big thing is experiment a bit with colours.
Then I paint on an oil paint. Burnt Sienna and Burnt Umber are my favorites. I then drag a clean brush along in the direction of wood grain. I also use the foam from AM products to drag along as it leaves some very nice grain marks. Then I add dabs of Yellow ochre or brown or some other contrasting oil paint and drag that along. It adds depth to the wood and gives you different shades.
When all dry I spray on either Tamiya clear yellow or orange or a mixture depending on what I want to achieve.
Some hints. Put the oil paints on some card stock, I use the presentation cards or recipe cards. This will wick out some of the lindseed oil and usually my paint will dry over night.
 
Here is the Hannover CL.II I am working on and having used these techniques.
 

 

 

 

 
Hope that helps some.
James

I'm watching the build with interest. I'm not quite seeing how your going to convert all that grey plastic into a cute furball though. Will keep watching and maybe it will make more sense as more stuff is glued together  
 
lol
James

My favorite lozenge decals are made by Aviattic. They also have some neat upgrades and figures for your WWI a/c. Well now they have announced their first kit. A 1/32 Ansaldo Balilla A1 - Italian Fighter of 1918 in multimedia and resin. Here is the box top painted by Ron Cole.


 
Couple more shots.







Spring release with pre-order and "Collectors Editions" announced before that.

http://www.aviattic.co.uk/aviattic.co.uk/Welcome.html
 
James

My favorite lozenge decals are made by Aviattic. They also have some neat upgrades and figures for your WWI a/c. Well now they have announced their first kit. A 1/32 Ansaldo Balilla A1 - Italian Fighter of 1918 in multimedia and resin. Here is the box top painted by Ron Cole.


 
Couple more shots.







Spring release with pre-order and "Collectors Editions" announced before that.

http://www.aviattic.co.uk/aviattic.co.uk/Welcome.html
 
James

My favorite lozenge decals are made by Aviattic. They also have some neat upgrades and figures for your WWI a/c. Well now they have announced their first kit. A 1/32 Ansaldo Balilla A1 - Italian Fighter of 1918 in multimedia and resin. Here is the box top painted by Ron Cole.


 
Couple more shots.







Spring release with pre-order and "Collectors Editions" announced before that.

http://www.aviattic.co.uk/aviattic.co.uk/Welcome.html
 
James

My favorite lozenge decals are made by Aviattic. They also have some neat upgrades and figures for your WWI a/c. Well now they have announced their first kit. A 1/32 Ansaldo Balilla A1 - Italian Fighter of 1918 in multimedia and resin. Here is the box top painted by Ron Cole.


 
Couple more shots.







Spring release with pre-order and "Collectors Editions" announced before that.

http://www.aviattic.co.uk/aviattic.co.uk/Welcome.html
 
James

My favorite lozenge decals are made by Aviattic. They also have some neat upgrades and figures for your WWI a/c. Well now they have announced their first kit. A 1/32 Ansaldo Balilla A1 - Italian Fighter of 1918 in multimedia and resin. Here is the box top painted by Ron Cole.


 
Couple more shots.







Spring release with pre-order and "Collectors Editions" announced before that.

http://www.aviattic.co.uk/aviattic.co.uk/Welcome.html
 
James

My favorite lozenge decals are made by Aviattic. They also have some neat upgrades and figures for your WWI a/c. Well now they have announced their first kit. A 1/32 Ansaldo Balilla A1 - Italian Fighter of 1918 in multimedia and resin. Here is the box top painted by Ron Cole.


 
Couple more shots.







Spring release with pre-order and "Collectors Editions" announced before that.

http://www.aviattic.co.uk/aviattic.co.uk/Welcome.html
 
James

My favorite lozenge decals are made by Aviattic. They also have some neat upgrades and figures for your WWI a/c. Well now they have announced their first kit. A 1/32 Ansaldo Balilla A1 - Italian Fighter of 1918 in multimedia and resin. Here is the box top painted by Ron Cole.


 
Couple more shots.







Spring release with pre-order and "Collectors Editions" announced before that.

http://www.aviattic.co.uk/aviattic.co.uk/Welcome.html
 
James

Hi all. I've sent in a review for a new book on Gerhard Barkhorn and hopefully it will be of interest to the admins and members. I just received an email from the publisher that they have a special custom made set of decals in 1/48th scale for this book. Of interest to everyone here though (I hope) they are taking pre orders for a 1/32 sheet if there is enough interest. I'll post a link and if you are interested then give them an email asking about the 1/32 sheet.
 
http://www.luftfahrtverlag-start.de/decals.en.html
 

 
James

The Aviattic lozenge is really easy to use. I would recommend a new set, with tapes, otherwise you have to apply the WNW rib tapes.
 

Actually Tim hit the nail on the head.
 
This thread is going in circles and full of non-constructive negative and confrontational vibe that just doesn't need to be here.  As I've mentioned before, staff are perplexed on how to handle what appears to be an increasingly negative tone here at LSP without becoming censors. It's a bit a of a do damn in moderating, some members are sick of this tone, some get really upset when you try to curb it. Overall, I don't think we want it here, we want open discussion that respects all members opinions and is not confrontational and is constructive.
 
I am locking this thread. If anyone wants to comment here with some actual constructive opinions of fact regarding this kit and is actually holding it while doing so,  please PM one of us staff members and we will gladly open the thread up again.
 
Ron

I have found that I get the best results for white and yellow when I use Tamiya flat white, or Tamiya flat yellow. I can then spray the appropriate gloss colour over top or future. The colour is more vibrant than the gloss colour. I dont remember if I did that before with MM flats.
James

Calling it done. Barracuda cal Bf 109K wheels on and they look sharp. Touch ups done. A fun little kit and interesting colour scheme.
Build here







Now onwards.

My overseer and QA. He has to check everything I do.




James

Calling it done. Barracuda cal Bf 109K wheels on and they look sharp. Touch ups done. A fun little kit and interesting colour scheme.
Build here







Now onwards.

My overseer and QA. He has to check everything I do.




James