Landrotten Highlander

Lovely work from all involved. on a side note, I can see the pictures in the above post, but not the first one (). Slainte, L.H.

I cannot. Not sue why, but there are a number of threads I see no pictures at all, but for most I have no problem. Not sure if my firewall considers imageshack a problem or if it lies somewhere else.

Sure you don't have a cat? They are Masters in blaming the dog.

Hi All, looks like I am #3 in line to receive this kit - will be another three weeks Anyway, I am in for a group build, and am happy to create blades if that is needed. Can do a master in any material then cast whatever else I will be needing (I think). I recently got mesel a 3D printer, but have no time in the short term to get to grips with it (the repotting season in my Bonsai Hobby has started about 3 weeks ago, and will go on for another 3 weeks - in my collections I have done 3 pyracantha, 2 cotoneaster, 3 maples and a taxus so far, still to do 4 Juniperus, 2 maples another 2 taxus and a pine group). Each repotting is a minimum of 1 hour work, then I need to put the tools down for a day as it takes a lot of energy for me (recently became disabled and learning to get to grips with that).

welcome to the forum. Great work so far, and love to see more here on this forum if possible.

I might be if I can turn it into an AWACS version.

I would think it qualifies, but better let those who know decide. Still love to see what you do to them.

I say: go for it.

yeeeeeehaaaaaa........

so, do we order in bulk, or each individually - and if so, how do we order?

I'd say leave them as is. The details are a very nice touch to the model, and any weathering would make me cringe if I were the one needing the meds.

I think I would like to give it a go at that price. Does this include postage to the UK?

what technique did you use forthe blue? Using a flat brush and apply as if water painting?

I have been using oil paints for figure-painting for a long time an there are a number of things to consider. First: oils tend to need a relatively long period to dry completely - this is heavily dependant on layer thickness (the thicker the layer, the longer the drying time) and colour (some colours are more 'oily' than others). Many of my figures are dry to the touch after one or two days of drying (I am using a drying chamber and paint in very thin layers - as in paint a layer, then using a dry brush remove as much of the paint as possible) so I can paint another layer on top, but that does not mean that the oil is completely dry - which means It may not be wise to 'seal' it in by means of varnish as the oil cannot evaporate anymore and stays within the paint layer. Second: the student version of any brand usually has fewer pigments (that which provides the colour) and a much higher percentage of carrier (in this case natural oil as in plant oil). It is possible to remove as much of the oil as possible by letting it 'leak out' as follows: place a small amount of oil on a piece of cardboard (any cardboard will do, I use pizza boxes - the ones that are frozen, not the ones that come from a pizza delivery company such as Pizza Hut - but cereal boxes will do just as well). Leaving the paint on that surface for at least 15 minutes before using it. - but the longer you leave it, the less oil will be in the paint, the more difficult it will be to paint surfaces as the paint will not 'flow' from your brush. I have used mostly Winsor and Thalens as brands, and have found that colours such as lamp black, titanium white, raw umber, raw sienna, burnt umber and burnt sienna have a low percentage of oil compared with for instance 'Prussian Blue' (very oily stuff, dries with a sheen if not used with care). To use as a wash on plastic kits (non-figures) I mix the oil paint with turpentine substitute (cheaper than the real artist turpentine, which I use for my figures). I do not think this is a major issue with the washes, but for historical subjects in my figure painting I try not to dilute my oils at all, as they tend to show some erratic behaviour - mostly altering the exact colour shade I am after, or drying with a sheen where without thinner I have a completely matt finish. Hope this helps.

Pulling up a chair, as I too have this in my stash.

I too would like to open up one of the engine bays, hence my comment of having this would be a nice addition to the kit.

Would be a nice addition to the kit, no?

I think the quality of work justifies working on it for 3 years. Rushing never brought anything good in exitence.

Me too would like to know

Looks to me based on the B&W picture that the left wing is white, the right wing orange, while the fuselage has a white band at top and bottom and orange sides?

He must be an agent of the dark side........

oooohhhh the suspense...... it is killing me......

Seems like a good place to look at planes up close AND remain dry. Is on the bucket list if I ever decide to visit the States. EDIT: glad I did not fly that drone - got caught in a wire once and bumped into two planes ...... oops

was easier to find than i thought couple of posts down is a discription of the different types of scribes. hope this helps