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Joe Hegedus

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About Joe Hegedus

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    Southern Maryland, USA

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  1. Very nice! Love those Blue Diamond Mustangs!
  2. The BuNo, 25881, is identified in the caption of the photo that was linked.
  3. That one may be the prototype for the -5 and have the windscreen, but the BuNo is solidly in the middle of the -3 blocks. I haven't seen any documentation that it ever was designated anything other than F6F-3. That said, it is a flat-windscreen Hellcat day fighter in tri-color scheme. Good luck making that odd canopy!
  4. The F6F-3 had 3 different cowl configurations. The earliest had the lower cowl flap and exhaust bulge. The middle one had the bulge but no lower cowl flap. The last was essentially the same as the -5, no lower cowl flap and no bulge. The windscreen is definitive; the -3 day fighters had a 4-piece windscreen with curved front panel, 2 side panels and a top panel, and internal armored glass. The -5 (and -3N) had a 3-piece windscreen with flat armored glass front panel and 2 side panels that met at the top.
  5. Personally, wing panel lines are insignificant compared to the windscreen and cowl differences.
  6. The lower cowl flaps and bumps over the exhausts are maybes, it depends on the specific airplane. Both features were deleted during the -3 production, I believe the lower cowl flaps went away first. The big thing that needs to change, other than adding the windows behind the canopy, is the windscreen; the -3 had a 4-piece windscreen with a curved front piece, 2 side panels, and a panel at the top with an armor glass panel inside, whereas the -5 had a 3-piece windscreen with a flat, armored glass front pane and 2 side pieces that met at the top. There are also a few minor adjustments to make to the cockpit consoles to delete some things that the -5 had that the -3 did not. Also, the metal skinning on the underside of the flaps where the rocket exhaust would impinge needs to be backdated to the fabric like on the upper surface. There may be a couple of other things, but those are the really visible ones I can think of.
  7. Only if the kit costs less than a decal sheet. That's normally the only aftermarket I'm interested in.
  8. The extra canopy from the Hasegawa kit will go on the Trumpeter with very little fuss. A bit of plastic card to fill the gap at the front, and some thin strip to shim a couple little places around the rear sides of the windscreen is pretty much all it takes, after trimming a small amount from the front of the locating tabs on the windscreen to clear the instrument panel. Only catch is that either the Hase or the Trumpy will have a closed canopy, if that matters to you. I've done it twice now, once on a Trumpy D-30 that I built as an "M", and on an "N" that I'm currently working on. In all honesty, the fitting of the Hase glass was much less hassle than dealing with the gun bay doors, all the invisible internal stuff that no one will ever see but sort of needs to be there to hold other things in place, or the miserable lack of positive engine attachments.
  9. Why? Because the Trumpeter P-47s are a nightmare to build IMO. At least the fuselage, with all that internal gobeldygook that will never be seen but still mostly needs to be fitted in order to hold other things in place, and the pathetic lack of any positive means to fit the engine. Having built both Trumpeter and Hasegawa bubbletops (fitting a spare Hasegawa canopy on the Trumpter kit to take care of that mess), I like the overall look of the Hasegawa kit better.
  10. Has anyone tried grafting the canopy and spine of the Trumpeter Razorback on a Hasegawa bubbletop P-47? Just wondering if this might be a less frustrating process than building the Trumpeter kit (I've done a couple and can't really say that they are a pleasant kit to build; the Hasegawa is a much less troublesome kit overall).
  11. It also has a lot of extraneous complexity if one is not interested in displaying an exposed engine or the like.
  12. Well, my assumption was that the builder already had basic required tools and supplies. These items are what one might consider "infrastructure", in that they are needed to build kits in general and not something that has to be purchased for each kit - unless, of course, this happens to be one's first kit. But again, one does not "need" an airbrush, oil washes, etc. Yes, an airbrush makes it easier to get a nice finish, and some like the effect that oil washes give, they are by no means a requirement. They are a finishing technique that one may choose to employ or not, depending on their preferences. Not everyone builds exactly the same as anyone else, so what one considers essential ("needed") may be completely irrelevant to someone else. And "spending time not effing and blinding but with pleasure" (sorry I'm not familiar with the meaning of "effing and blinding", please explain) is kind of an individual's preference as well. What you might consider "effing and blinding (making a bit of an assumption as to what you mean), someone else may find very enjoyable.
  13. Actually, no. You don't "need' anything additional past what comes in the kit other than paint and glue. One has, however, the option to add all those other things if one so chooses. They are, however, by no means something that is required to finish the model. Just the view from my little corner of the planet, YMMV.
  14. One thing to note; currently about half of the downtown museum is closed for renovation - everything in the west wing beyond the gift shop and a few galleries in the remainder were blocked off and inaccessible. At least it was a month ago, and it didn't look like it would be opening back up soon. I'd plan on doing the U-H facility at Dulles as primary, and if time permits then you can visit the downtown museum. Doing both in one day is probably not reasonable if you really want to see everything, given the physical distance between the 2 locations. Dulles is something like 20 miles or more from downtown and DC traffic means that this is not a 20-minute drive.
  15. Someone had to have at least tried to build it; otherwise, how would they know what to mark up in the instructions to cut here, or file here, or remove this or that to make it "fit"?
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