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VintageEagle

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  1. Like
    VintageEagle got a reaction from John1 in 1/32 Revell Fw 190 F-8 & A-8: Working on the wheel wells!   
    Hi John, I have continued to work on Vol 2 and have just finished another article. I think I have completed all longer articles that required considerable amount of research and will just have shorter descriptions for the remaining photos. There is still a lot of work with layout etc., but the closer it gets the more motivated I get to finish it. I sometimes think it would have been much easier and faster to publish it without text and that most people are mainly interested in the photos anyways, but it's also a personal interest to find out as much as I can about a particular aircraft. Knowing the story makes the photo much more interesting to me. Regards, Roger
     
     
    Thank you Mike. I also think that RLM 02 was the standard factory callout in Fw 190s, but I have never seen a proof (wartime document). Still, photos of earlier Fw 190 in the production line seem to confirm that the whole wheel bay was painted in RLM 02. But I have seen photos of later production aircraft with at least a bare metal backwall (= main wing spar). I don't know when they started doing this, but the aircraft I plan to build left the factory in summer 1944 (July to August 1944). There is an excellent photo of Fw 190 F-8 Yellow 14 W.Nr. 584592 that seem to show bare metal wheel bays. It is a b/w photo and you cannot be sure, however, but it somehow looks to be more shiny than I would expect from a painted wheel bay and comparing it with the landing flap interior (which was most likely bare metal), it has a very similar shade of grey. W.Nr. 584592 was built only in November 1944 and had lower wing surfaces that were only half painted. I am still debating how I should paint the wheel bay. Cheers, Roger
     
    In general, I'll started to assemble the Eduard landing flaps, which went quite well. I will not use their P/E parts for the interior surface of the landing flap bay as the ribs don't have the proper distance compared to the rivet lines on the top of the wing. I'll build them from scratch using plastic sheet. I also rescribed a part of the lower wing surface that Revell got wrong. Once the landing flaps are complete, I can install the landing gear bay and join the wing halves. I'll post photos soon in a bigger update.
     
    Cheers,
    Roger
     

  2. Like
    VintageEagle reacted to John1 in 1/32 Revell Fw 190 F-8 & A-8: Working on the wheel wells!   
    First off - amazing work!   I’m really enjoying this build.   Secondly - just wondering if Vol 2 is getting any closer?
     
    Regards,
     
    John
  3. Like
    VintageEagle reacted to Thunnus in 1/32 Hasegawa Bf 109G-14 Hartmann Double Chevron   
    With the Shiden Kai in wait mode as the HGW seatbelts are en route from the Czech Republic, I finally pushed myself to put the white wash finish on the G-14.  I decided to apply chipping fluid (MIG Heavy Chipping) to all of the upper surfaces to try and create wear on the white and that was a mistake.  For some reason the fluid decided to pool into little balls as if I had waxed parts of the 74/75 finish.  I tried dispersing it with water and MIG Scratches Effect fluid but I couldn't get it to level out.  Hairspray and the various chipping fluids tends to evaporate without leaving a physical trace but I now knew that the treated areas were not completely covered.  So after the chipping fluid dried, I pressed on with the white.
     


     
    As feared, the chipping didn't work out very well.  Because the white coat is in blotches and not uniform, the chipping aggregated in the dark areas where the white paint is the thinnest.  And so I started to develop a pattern of chipping that followed the edges of the blotches... not a good look. So... avoiding the dark areas and concentrating on just the wing roots, I did as much chipping as I could and then started repairing the other areas.  After the originally chipped areas were repaired, I tested out applying chips with a sponge and got acceptable results.  So that's the direction I'm heading in right now.
     




     
    Not what I had envisioned when starting this project but modeling is often an exercise in adaptation.  The chipping will be developed slowly so I'm not worried about the haphazard and incomplete look of it now.
  4. Like
    VintageEagle got a reaction from D.B. Andrus in 1/32 Revell Fw 190 F-8 & A-8: Working on the wheel wells!   
    Small update: I applied the same process to the elevators. Designing the vector graphic artwork for the Cricut cutter took most of the time. The elevators were also sanded to have a thin trailing edge. Next, I'll apply a clear coat to seal the decals. Then the trim tabs will be fabricated with thin plastic sheet.
     
    I'll then probably return to the wheel bay. I'll do the ailerons later. 
     
    First a look at the original:
     

     
    Then the different steps and results in 32 times smaller:
     
    (1) Masks and Mr Surfacer 500 applied:

     
    (2) Masks removed and surface polished:

     
    (3) Decal stripes added:

     

     

     
  5. Like
    VintageEagle got a reaction from scvrobeson in 1/32 Revell Fw 190 F-8 & A-8: Working on the wheel wells!   
    Small update: I applied the same process to the elevators. Designing the vector graphic artwork for the Cricut cutter took most of the time. The elevators were also sanded to have a thin trailing edge. Next, I'll apply a clear coat to seal the decals. Then the trim tabs will be fabricated with thin plastic sheet.
     
    I'll then probably return to the wheel bay. I'll do the ailerons later. 
     
    First a look at the original:
     

     
    Then the different steps and results in 32 times smaller:
     
    (1) Masks and Mr Surfacer 500 applied:

     
    (2) Masks removed and surface polished:

     
    (3) Decal stripes added:

     

     

     
  6. Like
    VintageEagle reacted to Antonio Argudo in 1/32 Revell Fw 190 F-8 & A-8: Working on the wheel wells!   
    this picture is also interesting, not sure if that is 02 or just a weathered  aluminium 

  7. Like
    VintageEagle got a reaction from Antonio Argudo in 1/32 Revell Fw 190 F-8 & A-8: Working on the wheel wells!   
    Thank you Antonio! Great photos. I believe that the landing flap interior was actually bare aluminum. It is just oxydized so that it looks grey. The gear bay covers indeed look to be painted RLM 02. In color footage of the Fw 190s at Ansbach just after the war it looks as if the rear wall of the landing gear bay was left bare metal. I am considering a combination of covers in RLM 02 and back wall in bare metal. If only there was still an unrestored Fw 190 around. I have been trying to find color photos of the unrestored NASM Fw 190, but couldn't find any.
     
    Cheers,
     
    Roger
  8. Like
    VintageEagle reacted to Antonio Argudo in 1/32 Revell Fw 190 F-8 & A-8: Working on the wheel wells!   
    I would go for  02,  some unrestored   parts, cheers 


  9. Like
    VintageEagle got a reaction from Antonio Argudo in 1/32 Revell Fw 190 F-8 & A-8: Working on the wheel wells!   
    I have been working on the ailerons and have applied a primer coat to the elevators and rudder. I am happy with the effect. It looks much better than the Revell raised details. I'll post photos soon.
     
    Next will be the installation of the wheel bay and work on the Eduard landing flap. However, I am not sure about the colors. I have seen a few wartime color shots that suggest that at least some aircraft did not have the wheel bay and interior of the landing flaps painted in RLM 02. For the landing gear wheel bay it may well be that there was a mix of painted parts and unpainted parts. Does anybody have some more reliable information (i.e. based on wartime color photos and or unrestored parts)?
     
    Here is a good view of the landing flap interior that seems to be bare metal (or RLM 76?):

     
    In the same series of still images there is also a front view where the back wall of the landing gear bay seems to be bare metal too. 
     
    Of course the colors also depend on the manufacturer and production year.
     
    Cheers,
    Roger
  10. Like
    VintageEagle got a reaction from turbo in 1/32 Revell Fw 190 F-8 & A-8: Working on the wheel wells!   
    Small update: I applied the same process to the elevators. Designing the vector graphic artwork for the Cricut cutter took most of the time. The elevators were also sanded to have a thin trailing edge. Next, I'll apply a clear coat to seal the decals. Then the trim tabs will be fabricated with thin plastic sheet.
     
    I'll then probably return to the wheel bay. I'll do the ailerons later. 
     
    First a look at the original:
     

     
    Then the different steps and results in 32 times smaller:
     
    (1) Masks and Mr Surfacer 500 applied:

     
    (2) Masks removed and surface polished:

     
    (3) Decal stripes added:

     

     

     
  11. Like
    VintageEagle reacted to Gelerth in [W] F-16C/CJ Block 50 - Tamiya 1:32   
    Starting preshading:

    .

     

    And few hours later done:

    .

     
     
  12. Like
    VintageEagle reacted to Thunnus in 1/32 Hasegawa N1K2-J Shiden Kai 343-45   
    Hi Tom... I found these on EBay.  Do a search on Galaxy Rivet Tools and you'll find a number of vendors.  The vendors are all from China so shipping may take a bit of time.  Mine took a little over two months between purchase and delivery.
     
    After the black base coat, I use the Mr Hobby Kawanishi Cockpit Green C-384 as my primary cockpit color. The cockpit floor and seat have been pre-treated with a metallic color and MIG Scratches Effect fluid so those areas are chipped.  And then it is time to start painting the details by hand.  This part of the build gets very un-structured.  It takes a lot of motivation for me to paint the cockpit details and I'll usually do it in non-sequential order... just attacking whatever piece or part that grabs my attention.  Because of this, I usually don't have lots of in-progress shots until towards the end.



     
    Slowly but surely, the cockpit gets painted and after that the big parts are given a clear coat and a dark wash is applied.  Since there are a lot of delicate parts, I have to be very careful during the wash process.  After the wash, a flat coat is put on and final weathering effects are applied like dry-brushing edges and some oil staining.



    The cockpit is then partially assembled to see how the various painted components look together.  This dry-fitting exercise has a few missing components, most notably the seat harnesses, which should be arriving this week.  The starboard side...




     
    The port side...



     
    We can't forget the reality of what happens when both cockpit sidewalls are put into place.

  13. Like
    VintageEagle got a reaction from Thunnus in 1/32 Hasegawa N1K2-J Shiden Kai 343-45   
    Absolutely gorgeous engine! 
  14. Like
    VintageEagle reacted to Alex in A6M2b Zero - Attack on Pearl Harbor - 1/32 Tamiya   
    This is the cockpit "module", almost completely assembled and ready to install into the fuselage.  The one small holdup is the one fit that I didn't pre-check three times, and a word to the wise if you are planning on building this kit.  The interface between the tabs on the top of the ammo magazine and the recesses on the bottoms of the MGs is too tight, and does not let the MGs sit level.  Since these protrude out of the cowl their alignment is obviously critical.  This would have been easier to solve if I had known about it before getting to this stage.  Going to fix it tomorrow when I'm fresh (another lesson I've learned).
     

     

     

     

  15. Like
    VintageEagle reacted to Thunnus in 1/32 Hasegawa N1K2-J Shiden Kai 343-45   
    Interesting to hear the time frames involved.  I'm very worried about the abrasive nature of the hairspray technique so I tend to wait longer for the paint to fully cure.  Sometimes I get decent results and sometimes, that topcoat just doesn't want to come off.  24 hours has been on the quick side of things when it comes to chipping so I probably need to make adjustments to my work flow.
     
    Since I've started on the engine work, I've decided to complete this stage before I jump back over to the cockpit.  I've kept the components separate to make painting details easier.  Since the restored Shiden Kai's have nice shiny engines that are uniformly metallic, I've taken some liberty with my color choices.  For example the crankcase and ignition ring have been painted in a Green Gray (Tamiya XF-14), which may or may not be a match for the instruction call out of Mitsubishi Green, and the ignition wires in Brown.

     
    Once the engine components have been painted, I started gluing the components together.


     
    Here is a view of the engine banks from behind. You can see that they are hollow and not represented fully.

     
    Once the crankcase assembly is glued onto the engine cylinders, I can complete the wiring attachment.

     
    Each of the painted wires is bent and guided into place gently, trying not to put kinks into the wires or scratching off the paint.  A few more wires are added to the top and bottom of the crankcase.  This is not meant to be an accurate representation of the Homare engine but simply trying to create some plausible detail that will look good lurking behind the prop.

     
    Here is the engine temporarily mounted on the fuselage.  I'll probably leave the engine detached until the very end so that I won't have to deal with masking off the exhaust tips.

     
    The view into the engine compartment with the engine cowling in place.  Although much of the detail is lost, you still get a sense of busy complexity within, which was the goal.

     
    A view of the exhaust tips without the engine cowling flaps in place.

     
    Some views of the complete engine from my lightbox.  I played around with weathering the engine, especially the crankcase, being the most prominent.  Some of things I did besides the dark pastel wash were chipping with a sponge and flicking AK Engine Grime enamel using a stiff paint brush.  I actually had to dial back some of that splatter by going over the crankcase in the base Grey/Green.


     
    The exhaust piping was sprayed using Alclad Steel and Exhaust Manifold and then dry-brushing the ends with a rust color.  As a last touch, the hollow ends were lightly darkened with a thin mixture of Flat Black through the airbrush.




     
    The completed radial engine is not quite as hefty as the P&W R2800 from the Tamiya Corsair build but it is a nicely detailed powerplant that Hasegawa has provided.

  16. Like
    VintageEagle reacted to Thunnus in 1/32 Hasegawa N1K2-J Shiden Kai 343-45   
    Thanks guys!
     
    Instead of a metallic finish, I elected to paint my landing gear legs a light grey. I don't know why... I just like the look better than what I was getting with a dull aluminum finish.

     
    The wheels were painted in a mixture of black and brown and then the contact areas were lightened with a sandy color.  I'll weather these more with pastels.

     
    Here's what the gear looks like after the details have been painted and given a dark wash.



     
    I filled the joints of the wing inserts with black rubberized CA glue.  I like this as a filler because it is easy to see and it sands a little easier than regular CA glue. You can see where the filler gets really close to some of the raised details.  I'll have be very careful when sanding not to lose this detail.


     
    I'm pretty frugal and like to re-use my sandpaper.  I keep the pieces in a small cup.  But when dealing with CA glue that's close to details that you want to avoid, it's essential to use fresh pieces of sandpaper.  The bite of fresh sandpaper is needed to cut down the ridge of CA glue without wearing down the surrounding surface.  Plus it is stiff enough to be able to be made into a narrow sanding tool when folded.  After the CA glue is sanded down, I treat the joints with Mr Surfacer 1000, sand that down and then give it a spray of primer to check my work.


     
    It looks ok from this perspective but from certain angles you can see where putty has not been blended in perfectly.  There are also some slight elevation differences between the insert and surrounding wing areas as well a few slightly jagged panel lines.

     
    I have the time and inclination to fix these issues so one more round of Mr Surfacer 1000 to see if we can make those imperfections go away.


  17. Like
    VintageEagle got a reaction from Thunnus in 1/32 Zoukei-Mura Ta152H-0 White 7   
    Outstanding work! Looks fabulous. I wish my 190A will look only half as good when finished. 
  18. Like
    VintageEagle got a reaction from Kais in 1/32 Revell Fw 190 F-8 & A-8: Working on the wheel wells!   
    Small update: I applied the same process to the elevators. Designing the vector graphic artwork for the Cricut cutter took most of the time. The elevators were also sanded to have a thin trailing edge. Next, I'll apply a clear coat to seal the decals. Then the trim tabs will be fabricated with thin plastic sheet.
     
    I'll then probably return to the wheel bay. I'll do the ailerons later. 
     
    First a look at the original:
     

     
    Then the different steps and results in 32 times smaller:
     
    (1) Masks and Mr Surfacer 500 applied:

     
    (2) Masks removed and surface polished:

     
    (3) Decal stripes added:

     

     

     
  19. Like
    VintageEagle got a reaction from Lothar in 1/32 Revell Fw 190 F-8 & A-8: Working on the wheel wells!   
    Small update: I applied the same process to the elevators. Designing the vector graphic artwork for the Cricut cutter took most of the time. The elevators were also sanded to have a thin trailing edge. Next, I'll apply a clear coat to seal the decals. Then the trim tabs will be fabricated with thin plastic sheet.
     
    I'll then probably return to the wheel bay. I'll do the ailerons later. 
     
    First a look at the original:
     

     
    Then the different steps and results in 32 times smaller:
     
    (1) Masks and Mr Surfacer 500 applied:

     
    (2) Masks removed and surface polished:

     
    (3) Decal stripes added:

     

     

     
  20. Like
    VintageEagle got a reaction from Brett M in 1/32 Revell Fw 190 F-8 & A-8: Working on the wheel wells!   
    Small update: I applied the same process to the elevators. Designing the vector graphic artwork for the Cricut cutter took most of the time. The elevators were also sanded to have a thin trailing edge. Next, I'll apply a clear coat to seal the decals. Then the trim tabs will be fabricated with thin plastic sheet.
     
    I'll then probably return to the wheel bay. I'll do the ailerons later. 
     
    First a look at the original:
     

     
    Then the different steps and results in 32 times smaller:
     
    (1) Masks and Mr Surfacer 500 applied:

     
    (2) Masks removed and surface polished:

     
    (3) Decal stripes added:

     

     

     
  21. Like
    VintageEagle got a reaction from LSP_Kevin in 1/32 Revell Fw 190 F-8 & A-8: Working on the wheel wells!   
    Small update: I applied the same process to the elevators. Designing the vector graphic artwork for the Cricut cutter took most of the time. The elevators were also sanded to have a thin trailing edge. Next, I'll apply a clear coat to seal the decals. Then the trim tabs will be fabricated with thin plastic sheet.
     
    I'll then probably return to the wheel bay. I'll do the ailerons later. 
     
    First a look at the original:
     

     
    Then the different steps and results in 32 times smaller:
     
    (1) Masks and Mr Surfacer 500 applied:

     
    (2) Masks removed and surface polished:

     
    (3) Decal stripes added:

     

     

     
  22. Like
    VintageEagle got a reaction from Landrotten Highlander in 1/32 Revell Fw 190 F-8 & A-8: Working on the wheel wells!   
    Small update: I applied the same process to the elevators. Designing the vector graphic artwork for the Cricut cutter took most of the time. The elevators were also sanded to have a thin trailing edge. Next, I'll apply a clear coat to seal the decals. Then the trim tabs will be fabricated with thin plastic sheet.
     
    I'll then probably return to the wheel bay. I'll do the ailerons later. 
     
    First a look at the original:
     

     
    Then the different steps and results in 32 times smaller:
     
    (1) Masks and Mr Surfacer 500 applied:

     
    (2) Masks removed and surface polished:

     
    (3) Decal stripes added:

     

     

     
  23. Like
    VintageEagle reacted to Thunnus in 1/32 Zoukei-Mura Ta152H-0 White 7   
    Thanks guys!  It's been a struggle but here at the finish line, there isn't much evidence of the battles, which is a good thing.
     
     
    Or I'll just show it in the stowed position.  That's probably how the fighter looked on the ground at most times anyway.
     
    The last bits and pieces are being added.  The flaps are glued into place.  The attachment tabs had to be trimmed to account for the brass part that was used for the upper wings.  I chickened out on the brass flaps... I categorized the required folding as humanly impossible.

     
    The landing lights were tiny bits of clear plastic that were painted transparent red and blue.  Also added at this stage were the delicate aileron/tab actuating arms.


     
    Removal of the canopy masks is always a nervous time.  Didn't know what to expect, especially the way this model has fought me.  Outside of a little bit of overspray that was cleaned up with a wooden toothpick dipped in iso alcohol, the clear parts turned out ok.  In my effort to douse some of the frosty white that was starting to creep into the finish, the salt fading effects were greatly reduced.  You can just make out remnants of the technique in these photos.  You can also see some of the chipping I've added with a silver pencil.


     
    The next time I show the entire airframe, I think it will be of the finished model.
  24. Like
    VintageEagle reacted to Piero in 1/32 MiG-23BN Trumpeter with HpH conversion set   
    ok, here we have the canopy, KM-1 ejection seat and the control stick.
    Pitot tubes are already glued on the model.
     
     
    Tomorrow the 23BN should be finished... i hope.
     
    CIAO!
    Piero
  25. Like
    VintageEagle reacted to Piero in 1/32 MiG-23BN Trumpeter with HpH conversion set   
    Hello,
     
    I'm getting close to the end with my 23BN.
    Still missing the KM-1 ejection seat, the canopy and pitot tubes... but almost there.
     
     
    CIAO!
    Piero
     
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