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  1. What an incredible fantastic build! Hats of to you Sir!
  2. Fantastic work. Comming together really nice. The extra detail you add to the Ju 388 conversion really brings it to life imho. Looking, learning and taking notes!
  3. wow, just incredible scratch building going on here... I just can't get over the superb work done on the pilot and co-pilot seats...Simply amazing... The ribbing detail on the fuselage is really fantastic. What do you use for glue on the rib detail? I found when using "Tamiya extra thin cement" for purposes like these, they tend to come loose and do't have enough bounding strenght (Mostly using Evergreen plastic card). My prefered glue is "Revell's Contacta", but it's application is much more difficult then the tamiya glue.
  4. Flaps look very good... I gather these are from the Eduard set? I found a Tamiya Lanc BI/III (original 70's Issue) + a Paragon etch Detail set for a very reasonable price a short while back, so I'm keen to follow your progress on this one..
  5. Late to the party, but what a fantastic result! And looking at your nect project, I'm sure we're in for more of this great stuff! Thanks for posting this!
  6. Sensational! I like your Sketches/drawings a lot! I'm already hooked!
  7. Indeed Exellent! The wear looks spot on. Fantastic looking model.
  8. What a great topic! I love your aproach and as stated here before, a great way to deal with AMS... My 8 year old son decided he too wants "Den Fighters". We had lot of fun making a old 1/72nd scale spit together and next will be a Bf 109... He even made me make a "scale correct" parachute for a pilot figure as he wants the Bf 109 pilot to escape from his crashing aeroplane... :-)
  9. Wow, That's an impressive model. Looks really good.
  10. Ah, Yes!!! Just what I was looking for. The Tamiya vs. the Eduard 109 G! Keen to follow...
  11. I'd suggest some clear plexi (cutoffs) for the wingtip lights. I have used these in the past to create them and although a bit harder to sand, very easy to polish out and also easy to drill. Since plexi is much harder then clear sprue, it's also easier to saw and grind without loosing shape. I'm not too familiar with inch measurement, but a plexi plate with a thickness of 1cm (a bit less then half an inch) is more then thick enough to create most wingtip lights. Perhaps it's easy to find cutoffs of plexi plates at a DIY store that also cuts these plates for it's customers (that's where I usually get these). Most cutoffs have a green or blue shade in them, but once sawed, grinded, sanded and polished, they apear clear as glass.
  12. Thanks for (re) posting this! I like it a lot. Very nice to take us through every step of the build. I always find Japanese aircraft the most daunting to do/get right, as been said in a previous post,it's difficult. I usually end up with over- or underdone weathering. But this Rufe is a splendid example of how it's done just right! And a great trick to get the Tamiya decals down to the pannel lines, never thaught of that.
  13. Brilliant! This is going to be epic! I'm hooked already. The pilot and co-pilot seats are simply amazing, as are the rest of your scratch build items...
  14. Stunning Finish! one of the best beat, worn down WW2 Japanese aircraft I've ever seen. I love the detail on the prop hub, the flaking paint there is fantasticly done!
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