CyberGolem

I don’t see the idea of 1/32 armor as sacrilegious, some vehicles in 1/32 would make a whole lot of sense especially if they were seen around airfields.  The armor world is just so deeply rooted in 1/35 that I don’t see 1/32 going anywhere.  I personally don’t care, I don’t plan on mixing a Panther into the same scene as a Mustang or 109 so it just does not matter to me.  I am not into diorama to begin with.  So what I build are stand alone pieces subject to adding a figure now and then.  I don’t care about 1/72, I build some 1/48 planes and some armor and 1/32 planes.  I don’t care if they interrelate in any particular way.  
 
I do look foreword to a Tamiya P-38 but if the poster above is right that it is 1/72, I doubt I would buy one.  I would be interest at 1/48 or 1/32 but I just don’t care much about 1/72.  I tried it in the past and unless the subject is particularly suited to 1/72 I am not into it.  I did build the Bandai 1/72 MIllenium Falcon though, that was a fabulous build.  Star Wars is really the only subject area that I am interested in 1/72.  With aircraft for me it renders the personal markings, cockpit detail and camouflage too small so all the stuff I really like starts to become invisible.  My perfect scale in aviation is 1/32 but I can live with 1/48.  

Its maybe sacrilegious to admit and it won't happen, and people will get red in the face for me even mentioning it, but I'd love to see some armor in 32. Decent kits too, not rubberband tracked snap-togethers. If Tamiya—or anyone else for that fact—did this I'd buy whatever they'd be willing to press out.
 
At the least, I'd like to see the Hind-D in 32. Actually any of the giant or killer choppers for that fact.

Its maybe sacrilegious to admit and it won't happen, and people will get red in the face for me even mentioning it, but I'd love to see some armor in 32. Decent kits too, not rubberband tracked snap-togethers. If Tamiya—or anyone else for that fact—did this I'd buy whatever they'd be willing to press out.
 
At the least, I'd like to see the Hind-D in 32. Actually any of the giant or killer choppers for that fact.

Very nice!

Yuppers! Cycling is like a cocaine habit, just a lot more expensive. My skinny bike is a mid-range frame and though $tupid expensive still nowhere near the price for some of the bikes that show up at local group rides.
 
Anyhow, my stash and guilt is growing at an unreasonable rate but I'm still stoked a Gotha landed in my collection. Especially before the remaining Earth's inventory retreats into that heart-wrenching area of the Amazon titled, "Available from these sellers".

And chocolate!!!

Here is an early B-17's waist positions:
 
http://www.gstatic.com/hostedimg/8a56edcc5a8aa700_large   http://www.gstatic.com/hostedimg/fa11c8ebeb2d412f_large   from here:   http://images.google.com/hosted/life/8a56edcc5a8aa700.html   Jari

As Patrick explained shortly, the block is a production batch of planes sharing identical features. Each time a major component was updated, a new production block was created. Commonly, in US production, block numbers are incremented by a 5 value. So, as the external features of the kit correspond to blocks 85 to 105, this means four successive production batches covering Boeing-made planes 43-38274 to 43-39073.
 
Milk Run is the single B-17 decal scheme included in the HK kit.
 
Thierry

Little Patches was B-17G-25-BO serial no. 42-31678; an earlier G in OD/NG.  In order to model her, you'll need to combine the B-17F kit with the B-17G kit (mostly the nose of the 17G) and then do the UAL Mod Center waist windows (3 panel glass, enclosed with K-5/K-6 gun mounts) and quite possibly the B-17F style radio room gun installation.  You'll probably be better off waiting until HK decides to release an early B-17G unless you've got lots of spare cash lying about.  Anyway, the Little Patches decals from Kits Worlds are somewhat less than accurate outside of the 1st AD Triangles and squadron/plane in squadron codes.  The nose art (minus the "Little Patches") is wrong for her as she wore two distinctly different (to me anyway) cheesecakes, neither of which is accurately portrayed on the Kits World decal sheet.  I don't even know if it was done correctly on any decal sheet in 1/48 or 1/72 either.    Granted, not many will know the difference but as a decal manufacturer with access to this information, they should've presented options and better research.  If you're looking to get as accurate as possible, you could retouch the nose art decal or have another one made (an option I would choose) or if it isn't that important, you could just use the decal as is.  Given the the B-17 is one of my "passion" aircraft and the G's are the favorite among the various subtypes AND seeing as how the 91st BG is my favorite bomber group (I have the entire USAAF official combat history of the 91st BG on 16mm microfilm) you can imagine I am somewhat biased in my opinions of markings as far as the 91st is concerned.  You'll have to forgive me for my "long-winded" post on this. 
 
From Ray Bowden's USAAF Nose Art Research Site accessed 11/02/2016:  http://www.usaaf-noseart.co.uk/plane.php?plane=little-patches#.WBp3YskoF7E
 
Starcer's original pin-up painting portayed a blonde wearing an Air Force cap. His artwork was probably based on the popular Gil Elvgren illustration entitled 'Net Results' painted in 1941 -- which was based on his earlier rendering called 'Forced Landing'.
  The fire damage affected the nose section of the plane and Tony Starcer repainted the pin-up girl at this time and made some slight amendments to his original imagery. The girl became slightly slimmer as well as a brunette, the Air Force cap was omitted and the dress received a different pattern. The title lettering however remained identical and untouched.

with many blocks and variations it gets difficult (here is where Jennings jumps in to say this is why they will never do a B-24 )
 
Yes you would be correct on the interpretation of "blocks." I believe Milk Run is a specific B-17 (like that was the name painted on the nose)
 
I personally would like to do "Little Patches" someday but have not even got that far to figure out what block it is and what all would need to be changed on the HK kit to make it accurate to that ship...

I am surprised it seems nobody ever mentioned the main problem of the kit: the fact it only depicts a very small production block from an external perspective! And no aftermarket company is solving that.
 
Indeed, if you consider Boeing production, the only planes built with the fixed .50 in the radio compartment top window were the blocks 85 to 105! Milk Run was a block 70 and except two schemes in the OOP Zotz sheet (Super Mouse & 5£ with Breakfast) I don't think anyone has released appropriate decals. I could not check the situation for Vega and Douglas blocks but the production was similar.
 
So, most schemes (earlier or later ones) would ask for replacing that window by a new plain one. However, this is not so easy as HK did not give such an option... Personally, as I am interested in a block 65, I think I will use the kit part without the machine gun and with a plug in the hole. Not the best solution but currently I do not see a better one as I seriously doubt I can make a vacformed window with the same clarity. Hopefully, this will be in the E/F kit or future G releases...
 
Too bad as this is the most visible area of a nice kit...!

Thanks for the info.
 
Here is the Trumpeter chisel/scraper tool I was mentioning:
 
http://www.trumpeter-china.com/index.php?g=home&m=product&a=show&id=2589&l=en
 
Thierry

Have fun with this one Kev, I loved backdating the Trump Kit when I did mine. a lot of work but at least you are using AM parts, let me know how the Kit works out for you. I had used the Lone Star Kit for mine next time it will be the Tamiya for me.
But there is just something about scratch building that makes it better.
 

 
Cheers Murph

Thanks for the kind words, very much appreciated.
 
Here it is with the prop. I have to glue it on yet. I'll take some proper pics in the photo booth when I get back from Dubai
 
Cheers
 
Ron
 

 

The head should be straigth and perpendicular to the handle to remove thin flat slices of plastic. All other heads will create more damage than solving anything! You should use the scraper in a vertical motion when you look at the fuselage: from top to bottom or vice- versa. Never horizontally! Even if you are very cautious, this will leave some small vertical scratches. This is why you need the pen in a second step. Using it horizontally (essentially but not only!) will blur and remove such scratches up to a sufficiently smooth status to paint it to replicate a natural metal finish.
 
Note I used that technique on kits not only for protruding ejection marks but also for recessed ones. The final difference is just the resulting rectangle between the stringers and bulkheads is a little bit deeper in the second case. This is not noticeable. However, for those that may be worried by that, simply add a disk of plastic before all the scraping operations.
 
Hth
 
Thierry

Thank you mates! Y'all have given me much to think about. BTW I don't plan on doing any contests so I'll be good for über-fragile-detailing.
 
I took Thierry's list, with a few other gleaned items and attached links and respective MSRP (localized) as a benchmark for pricing. No doubt some deals are to be had, but at least a comparison to the original prices can be done. I didn't find any Oxygen Hoses from MDC (at least not specifically for 1:32 scale) so the info there is missing. Anyway, hopefully this helps anyone else wanting to find these parts.
 
 
+++++ The list has been moved to the opening entry of this thread, so ya need to back it up +++++

If I had two recommend two additional items for B-17 builders, this would be two tools:
 
- a scraper such as the Mission models tool or the medium one of the straigth tip type from Trumpeter
- a fiberglass tip scraping pen (the one with the small diameter tip)
 
The combination of such tools is the easiest way to clean all the mold ejection marks located on the fuselages halves interior, bomb bay doors and between the intricate details of the bulkheads. Eduard is solving part of the problem. But even if you use the photoetched sets, you still have to find a solution for more than half of them...
 
This gives a clean and reasonably quick result.
 
Hth
 
Thierry

Well, I just see a clear difference.
 
However, I need first to find the correct dimensions and compare the HK, Resin2detail and Master Detail O2 bottles. My eyes are telling me that shapewise the most accurate ones are probably the Resin2detail ones but this requires confirmation. I also think that the Master oxygen tubes are on the thin side and I will probably use the MDC ones. However, this is just a visual feeling again. Note I do not think the possible bottle discrepancy is a major problem as most of the big bottles are barely visible.
 
In any case, the Master Detail O2 is really recommended as it gives a lot of nice parts with decals for a reasonable price. Combined with Eduard parts and some scratchbuilt parts here and there, this is a good way to get a very accurate replica, more particularly in the most visible areas.
 
Thierry

ooh those belts look good...

Holy Bombers Batman! That's amazing. Nice work Scott, but I have to hate you—just a little—for raising the bar so friggin' high

Take a look at my build. I used every PE set except the flaps. I also used the Profimodeller LG and the Brassin wheels. I don't think the engines are necessary as the kit engines build up really nice, especially with the added PE. When I build the new F model, I will use all of the same sets. In addition to the fun that is PE, I think they really add a lot to the model.
 
http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=53093&hl=
 
http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=55650&hl=

Thank you mates! Y'all have given me much to think about. BTW I don't plan on doing any contests so I'll be good for über-fragile-detailing.
 
I took Thierry's list, with a few other gleaned items and attached links and respective MSRP (localized) as a benchmark for pricing. No doubt some deals are to be had, but at least a comparison to the original prices can be done. I didn't find any Oxygen Hoses from MDC (at least not specifically for 1:32 scale) so the info there is missing. Anyway, hopefully this helps anyone else wanting to find these parts.
 
 
+++++ The list has been moved to the opening entry of this thread, so ya need to back it up +++++

Here is a link showing them:
 
https://www.scalemates.com/kits/260396-live-resin-lre-35147-50-caliber-feed-chutes
 
A set costs between 10 and 12$.
 
Thierry

And here is the missing link: MDC oxygen hoses 3.95£
 
http://www.modeldesignconstruction.co.uk/mall/productpage.cfm/ModelDesignConstruction/_mdcdt08/%2D/Oxygen%20Hose%201%2E5mm%2F2mm
 
There is another option for the souple resin ammo belts. The Russian company Live resin does the most detailed ones by far. They are 1/35th ones but the 9% difference is not noticeable as David Parker build showed it.

I couldn't agree more ... best philosophy with any AM is to limit purchases to what is going to be seen ...
I haven't gone anywhere near my 'G' yet ... It's sitting firmly on the stash shelf!!
BUT ... I did have a quick look into possible AM purchases when I first bought it.
 
Are you planning on putting it into any contests? If not ... The following might help you "moderate" your expenses.
The cockpit on a B-17 is viewed through the canopy (unlike most fighter aircraft, where the canopy is open while the aircraft is parked up - so you can get a good look at what is going on inside)
Although the canopy is large and clear (vision is not overly distorted) - it is framed ... personally I'm likely to go with Eduard coloured sticky IP's ... mainly because I can't be ar$ed fiddling around with decals and such.
The bombsight is a idea worth considering as it sits at the front of the perspex nose and can probably be quite easily seen ... for me - the jury is still out until I actually crack open the box and get going on the kit.
I grabbed some HK Models branded AM metal landing gear from Pacific Coast Models when the kit first came out. The only purpose was for the extra strength ... which Thierry points out, isn't really needed.
There was no extra detail ... neither was the detail any sharper. If you are going to go for metal AM landing gear ... make sure the detail is better than the plastic supplied in the kit - i.e. read the reviews first!
For me - metal gun barrels are pretty much a must on any kit (unless they are hidden away) ... the B-17 is called a Flying Fortress for good reason! ... There are some resin options which are better than the plastic - but I definitely prefer metal.
If I recall, the IM barrels supplied in the kit are not all the correct lengths (or are under-scale) ... make sure that any AM gear you buy isn't a direct copy off the kit items!
 
Unless you're standing the kit on a mirror (so you can view the bottom) or suspending the kit from above ... detailing the bomb bay would seem like a bit of a waste ...
I'd probably prefer the going down the route of a vehicle towing an ordinance trolley parked up next to, or in front of, the model.
Eduard make an "exterior" detail kit ... which includes flaps ... It looks extremely complex to my eye, but nets some fantastic looking results.
Again ... the jury is still out for me on that one ... it seems like overkill - especially for the price, but I won't know for myself until I start digging through the assemblies.
 
The engines ... Eduard Brassin (for the individuals - numbered 1-4 incidentally!) or BigSin for the entire set ...
The quality of Eduards resin is awesome and these things will really pop if you're going to display your model in parts!
But ... if you're closing everything up - kit parts are fine and the resin would be a wasted expense in my opinion.
 
That's all I have ... just think it through, assembly by assembly, before hitting the shops.
 
Rog