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Juggernut

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Everything posted by Juggernut

  1. I used Alclad grey primer...probably since it's a very high sheen primer, it may be that in and of itself why I could scrape the paint off of the primed surface. The Ki-44 I did was natural metal so I just batched everything and painted the prop (again) with the Alclad primer.
  2. Amazing! You certainly aren't any stranger to major surgery as far as plastic is concerned. I however, am not that "dedicated" so I chose to do my B-17 in 1/48 starting with the old Monogram G kit. At least I'm certain that it's fairly close to being correct...it looks a lot more "in-proportion" than does the HK kit (any of their B-17's); not to mention considerably smaller. Having said that, the only thing I've managed to do to mine is relocate the right waist window forward three fuselage frames. There is a build in the Non LSP works forum but there's not much there as I'm frightfully slow. Right now, I'm reinstalling all the fuselage form and stringer detail that was lost when I ground it all off because of the window relocation. I've got a LOT more to do though....
  3. It has been told to me that the LeRhone engine was a prized item and many a German aircraft were retrofitted with it when the could get them.
  4. If this is of importance and just as a tidbit of information from an aircraft mechanic, and my apologies if you already know this...the fuel cap (the "T" portion of it) should open into the wind (to prevent it from opening because of the wind)....in other words, aft (wing trailing edge) should be to the right in zacto's photo and your photo showing the layout of the fuel cap and what may be a fuel quantity probe right next to it. If aft isn't to the right, the fuel cap is installed incorrectly (which is entirely possible).
  5. Thanks for the advice Woody, I'll give it a try on my next project and we'll see what happens. Most likely, it's some sort of a ID10T error and I'll be right as rain on the next try.
  6. Not that I'm aware of. I doused the prop in rubbing alcohol to clean it off just in case there might have been some mold release on it or something. On my second attempt, the primer stayed put while the Mr. Color scratched off... Never had that happen to me before. I had never used a Mr. Color paint before even though I've had them for a few years now. Maybe it's gone bad but it didn't appear that way when I was preparing it.
  7. Yes, the acrylic lacquer... I thought it was strange as well. I've never had any issues with the aqueous stuff.
  8. Here's a question about something that happened to me while using Mr. Color on my last build (Ki-44). I mixed up a batch of color using Mr. Color leveling thinner, a tiny bit of Mr. Color thinner and Mr. Color prop color (Japanese). I did not prime the plastic before spraying. I sprayed the kit prop with it and let it dry. A week or so later, I was able to scrape it off the prop with my fingernail; it hadn't adhered well to the plastic. I thought to myself that I had done something wrong but a second attempt (after removing the paint and adding primer underneath) pretty much had similar results. I was able to use the prop but had to be careful not to scratch it. Is this normal for Mr. Color paint to be that delicate?
  9. Very nice! I wish I had those plastic forming skills. I just butcher the plastic to some shape that "resembles" what I need and go with that.... Now if I were able to do what you do, I'd be much better off. Care to share how you design, cut and manufacture such things like the hatches, vents, and the loading/unloading ramp? I'm quite sure there are a lot of us who'd benefit from such a tutorial (for lack of a better word).
  10. Done! Thanks for reminding me. I would've forgotten.
  11. Just a plug for the upcoming PennCon model contest. This year at the Eisenhower Complex in Gettysburg, PA. I'll be there. Hope you can make it; the more the merrier. Lots of vendors but I don't have a list of who though. Added bonus: If you're coming from anywhere but the south, you have to drive through the Gettysburg National Military Park (aka battlefield - Pickett's Charge) to get to the Eisenhower Complex. Central Penn IPMS
  12. Yeah, like another Bf109....
  13. Nice....Ahem..... tallboy next? . Might make me want one of those HK Dambuster Lancs.... Just think, a Tirpitz killing (well, kinda) Lanc....nice.
  14. Vegas Baby, Yeah! (Best Austin Powers voice)
  15. The judges will do that. Ok...enough banter...PIX OR IT DIDN'T HAPPEN!
  16. Well, at least two of the four I'm looking at are currently represented on the kit marking options; Kempf and Voss... Now all I need to see is VonTutschek and the Baron's 152/17.
  17. I don't know about the rest of you but I'm stoked about this release. I can think of at least two or three aircraft I'd like to portray in 1/32, one of which is the Baron's 17/152 (or is it 152/17?). I hope they can keep the price under$90 but I'll not complain too much if it's not. I'm expecting it to retail for around $99 US not unlike the D.VII that was recently released. Ugh, my WnW stash is growing and I haven't even looked under the box covers of most of them. Unlike the 1/32 B-17's and B-24's, I KNOW I can fit these into the display cabinet!
  18. If your wheels are resin, I'll second the lacquer thinner treatment to remove enamel paint. It works great and won't damage the resin. It'll wreck styrene so never use it on that... I also thin my enamel paints with lacquer thinner. It works a helluva lot better than mineral/white spirits and is WAY cheaper than Testor's thinner/brush cleaner. It also has the benefit of making the enamel paint flow much smoother with less thinner (at least that's my experience with it). No ill affects whatsoever. Just don't ever put paint thinned with lacquer thinner back into the bottle (as most of us probably already know), as it'll ruin the rest of the bottle...eventually. You'll be left with a semi-solid bottle of goo which is absolutely useless. I wouldn't recommend using it on acrylic paints of any kind without experimentation first.
  19. I'm jettisoning (aka trashing, binning, or your choice of refuse container) my Roden Dr. I as I ran into fit "issues" and boxed it a long while back. I'll keep the decals and possibly the instructions (for decal placement).
  20. Sopwith BR.1
  21. AWE-FREAKING-SOME! Still have the Roden decals for Kempf's triplane. Did anyone notice that the "early" release seems to be Voss' F.1 triplane and one of MVR's triplanes? My eyes aren't able to tell for sure but that third picture that was posted sure looks like them to me. Now where did I put those VonTutschek decals? Also makes me wish I'd never sold my CE 1/32 Baron's Tripe's decal sheet.
  22. Stand in the center of Tokyo around 5 pm (local), look up and shout "GODZILLA"!
  23. 49th FIS.... Just sayin'
  24. Thanks for that information and Welcome to LSP!
  25. Thanks, you are too kind. I'm not an expert but I'd like to think I have a good base of knowledge about the old girl.
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