Juggernut

If that's an Fw190D-11, that wing is certainly very interesting as it doesn't have any provisions for the 30mm cannon; I'm not sure if there's an opening for the shell port underwing or not. There's certainly no evidence of the leading edge 30mm opening. If it's an Fw190D-9, it's got a Ta152H intake plastered on it and a very strange looking cowl gun cover (for an Fw190D-9). Is there a possibility that it may be an Fw190D-13? UPDATE: I seem to have found an answer. Apparently, this is an Fw190D-11 without the 30mm guns. Damian asked this very question several years back before Jerry passed away and he said at that time, this is a D-11. REFERENCE: D.B. Andrus' thread on the Fw190D-11/13.

He must've used the same profile in the Fighters of the Iron Cross book as it too has the profile of Red 4 with the 30mm cannon in place. However, the caption under the profile says "Newly discovered photos reveal there were no 30mm cannons installed in the wings." (pg. 357).... Pub date on Fighters of the Iron Cross is 2021. I think the D-9 volume 1 and 2 books are just a tad bit older if I'm not mistaken; I don't have them so cannot confirm pub date. After thinking on it and really not happy with the way the Ta152H-0 came out, I may indeed steal the HD VS9 from it and bin the rest...THEN! I'll have an excuse to buy another one so I can build it better (and know where all the tricky assembly points already are). Hmmm.... The IPMS National Convention is coming up in the first part of August. Maybe I can find a relatively inexpensive Hasegawa kit there. Ooooo....bonus! Zoukei Mura will also be at the show and may have a copy or two of the Ta152H-0 kit...Oh, Christmas in August!

EDIT: I posted this on the LFD Facebook page so no real need to attempt an answer here. Let me ask this.... If the Fw190D-11 has 30mm outboard wing cannon, what, if anything, will be supplied with the nose conversion to accommodate the obvious leading edge, upper wing, and underwing panel differences vis-a-vis, the standard Fw190D-9 kit wing which has none of that? The spinner and prop blades are a welcome addition...I won't have to steal the Henri Daehne VS9 prop from my "less-than-satisfactory" build of the ZM Ta152H-0. LOL, I've got my eye on acquiring a copy of the 1/32 Hasegawa Fw190D-9 but before I pull the trigger, I'd like to know the full extent of the conversion for the D-11 (which is my preference over the D-13 simply for those 30mm wing cannon). I fancy a Papagei Staffel D-11.... I never really cared for the JV44 protection flight aircraft until this conversion was announced. It kind of grew on me after that but only the relatively few D-11's that were assigned to that unit. I have a copy of Jerry Crandall's book Fighters of the Iron Cross and in there, he shows two D-11's and at least one he claimed is missing the 30mm guns. I'm assuming, possibly to my detriment, that it still had the openings and distinctive panels for them, just not installed.

I believe it's a video card. I have an RTX 2070 Super...it's a few years old but still performs admirably for what I need it to do.

Same old kit....

I think he may have been referring to the 1/48 kits... Eduard 1/48 is light years ahead of the Tamiya 1/48 offerings. DOH! I was too late.

This looks great.... I've read that the Fw190D-11 was armed with 2 x 20mm guns in the inboard part of the wings and 2 x 30mm (Mk 108) in the outboard part of the wings (like the Fw190A-8/R2). Is this being addressed with this set as well? I didn't see any mention of it but I may have missed it. Did the Fw190D-11 also have a 30mm in the nose too? This configuration sorting gets confusing after awhile... the D-13 had a 20mm in the nose??? Ugh.... I've also read (Aero Detail #2 on the Fw190D) that the correct prop for the Fw190D-11/13 is the VS10. Is that a correct statement? I'm confused because somewhere I also read these Fw190D's used the same propeller as the Ta-152 which was the VS9....

Eduard IS releasing a P-51B in 1/32. They have also said it will NOT be released in 2025. Most likely (and this is my view only) it will be some time in 2026.

This is why every thread regarding almost anything here eventually turns into a wish list.

Do they fire or are they expensive toys? If they don’t fire then why would you want one; as a show piece, a movie prop or for reenacting? That’s what comes to mind when I envision a non-firing replica. My apologies and not meaning to cast aspersions or offend but I don’t understand the attraction to an expensive, non-operating replica. My question is asked primarily out of ignorance rather than contempt. You can’t take it anywhere and fire it…. Granted an automatic weapon is highly restricted and requires an FFL (if I’m remembering correctly) to own one but people do own them. I’ve seen videos, shows , etc. that show people actually shooting weapons like the MG34 and 42, not to mention others like an M-134 mini-gun. The cost of the ammo alone for a day at the range with that would be astronomical! I own one replica 1861 Springfield rifled musket and an 1860 Colt 44 revolver; both are fully operational and were relatively expensive when I bought them 20+ years ago. I have one more Civil War era weapon to acquire and that is an 1860 Henry repeating rifle. There are non-firing replicas available for it but they’re not even under consideration despite being considerably less expensive; it is a boat anchor in my opinion. Henry still produces that rifle and can be had for somewhat under $3,000. That is expensive to me but something that will absolutely hold its usefulness and a good chunk of its value throughout the years. Perhaps someone could enlighten me regarding owning these replicas? Right now, I put them in the same kind of compartment in my brain as a plastic model; nice to look at but not particularly useful or valuable and you don’t even have to build them. They sure aren’t artwork…

If you tape the parts together before cementing, you run the risk of preventing the cement from penetrating the joint effectively or possibly at all. Try simply holding the two pieces together loosely between your fingers with a hairline gap between the parts. Touch a full brush of the Tamiya extra thin (shouldn’t matter if it’s the regular stuff or the quick setting type) to the joint and you’ll see it run along the joint via capillary action. It will travel an inch or so. Wait a few seconds…. Now squeeze the glued part of the joint together and allow the melted plastic to squeeze out of the seam. Now you can tape the joint securely together to dry. Continue around the joint, gluing, squeezing, and taping until the entire part is glued. This works well for wing, fuselage, and stabilizer halves. After the glue has fully cured, you can remove the tape. The joint should now be strong enough that it won’t split. Having said that, split joints do happen from time to time, usually at the most inconvenient moments. Reapply glue as above and hope it stays glued.

Sorry but I'm out at €340 ($386.23 as of 5-7-2025, 08:48 am). I am not adverse to spending that kind of money on a kit but I'm just not in that crowd for the F-4 Phantom. It does sound like it will be a nice kit.

Not sure about the A-20 but there’s a photo in the Warpath Across the Pacific book that shows the parafrag rack in the bomb bay of a B-25 and they’re stowed vertically in individual cells for a total of 72 parafrags. The rack is like a big box with open bottom with subdivisions within. I’ve heard these were locally fabricated but not sure. Others may know more.

Your wait is almost over. Eduard has announced 1/32 P-51B, likely to be released in 2026. No cad images or details yet but it has been confirmed by the people in charge at Eduard.

Well, I tried but apparently the ability to comment in a post on their facebook page has been either turned off or locked. Gee, I wonder why? If anyone with Facebook can think of a way to do it, here's their facebook page: Mulberry Scale Kits

Better yet, post a link to this thread on the facebook page...that'll be an "oh-sh*t" moment when the offending butthole sees what the LSP community thinks of his extremely discriminatory (for lack of a more appropriate/civil term) comments.

Having studied Chinese language for year in college, there are lots of words in English that do not translate so well to Asian languages (at least Chinese); some easier than others. Google translate (or whichever translation app available) could be used but this may be more of a pain than it's worth. I don't know any Asian modelers, even remotely so I cannot say with any degree of confidence the language barrier is the primary issue but I'm sure it's a concern. There are some extraordinary Asian modelers and some of their work is astounding and I'd love to be able to know how they get the results they do but being a "Westerner", I'm in no way, shape or form, close to understanding anything other than very rudimentary Chinese, even with Google translate.

Hi Tolga, If you're looking for a Ju388J conversion in 1/32, and haven't done so, contact John Mcillmurray at aimsmodels1@gmail.com. He may be able to get you what you're looking for in a FAR better experience than you've just related. I didn't see any in stock at Hannants but John may be doing these on a custom order basis. I know you don't have Facebook so I took the liberty of copying the image of his conversion set from there so you could see what his set offers.

Nor from me! Absolutely tasteless and uncalled for.

In my experience, piston powered aircraft (and many jet powered aircraft) usually have unpainted, stainless steel firewalls for the simple reason that a fire in the engine compartment would quickly melt aluminum and provide zero protection to the occupants of the aircraft and would facilitate a catastrophic failure when the engine fell off the aircraft after melting the aluminum.

1/48 SOW B-17 Main Gear Struts. They're sold out but I'm sure Damian will be making more at some point.

Take a look at the below image. You'll see that the aileron was shortened on the inboard side.

I was thinking similar but the OP specifies 1/48 scale.