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Everything posted by Juggernut

  1. Well, if you're going to get your nose all out of joint over what was a simple admission of lack of knowledge, that's on you.... I've got no skin in this game. At least not as far as you're converned.
  2. Well, I thought "irregardless" wasn't officially a word but I guess it is... NOW... Times are a changin.
  3. They all look the same provided you display them closed up.... If one displays them with the engine cowls removed, then there's only one option isn't there?
  4. I found it from the publisher in England [about $38 shipped].... Nobody closer (i.e., the United States) had the book for anywhere near a reasonable price.... Amazon wanted $100! Nope....not biting.
  5. Thanks for the link. I saw the first three profiles there but haven't really delved into the site just yet. Thanks for the 190 discussion information, i agree it would apply to late war 109's as well. I'm aware that photos are better references than profiles but since I'm creating a ficticious "representative" aircraft, there likely won't be a photograph to refer to. I'm looking for more of a set of general possibilities than a specific color scheme. The model will be a blank canvas for me to create on. The profile above of Yellow 5 is a prime example of what I'm looking for. It has a lot of variation in the paint showing it was most likely remanufactured or assembled from parts provided by the well known but highly diversified construction network during 1944/1945. Having said all that, if in the near future, there are a series of decal sheets that become available and one strikes my fancy, I may alter my plans accordingly but for now, I am going to stick with a "possible" aircraft rather than trying to recreate a specific aircraft. It frees me up from being bound to a given profile or color scheme.
  6. Wow, nice build; and fast! Almost makes me want to get a Lanc...I'll have to sell a kidney first though.
  7. 32D034 Bf 109 data Plates and Engine Numbers ordered and paid for as requested. Thanks!
  8. Oh boy this brings back memories... I helped with building a few of the vertical tails for these things and have seen several in the factory when they were being built. The manned version (test platform) was pretty cool too occasionally flown by our test pilot.
  9. That's sort of what I was thinking but the only issue I face is whether said camouflage scheme would be similar for a different aircraft or not. I just don't have enough references to definitively state what's possible and what's not. Having said that and knowing the haphazard times in Germany toward the end, I think almost anything is possible. I'm probably ovethinking the issue but that's one of my more aggravating faults I just can't get past.
  10. Wow, that thing will be huge.
  11. Yep, $99 direct from TamilyaUSA with free shipping. Can't beat that with a stick! Tamiya USA P-51D/K kit
  12. Hahahahahha--- Their evil plan is working! Tamiya secretly started this thread just for that reason.
  13. Yes, I did and EagleCals is usually my "go-to" source for Luftwaffe markings. I was going to select the G-14 sheet until one of the guys doing a build here is doing the exact same set of markings I wanted to do. I'm a little "funny" in that if someone's doing an aircraft with the same set of markings as I would do, I shift to another set of markings so not to create a "comparison" build with someone else. With my choice of markings already being used and since I've gotten into masks, I got the wild hair to do a "representative" aircraft rather than a specific aircraft. That's why I posed the question above fully knowing that it could be a mine-field of opinions and conjecture. Hopefully, it won't devolve into an flame war.
  14. Hey all, For those of us who plan to build the new ZM G-14 kit as a G-14 but not in the Hartmann markings, it seems there are a very limited supply of readily available decals. Since I've recently discovered the "art" of mask making and I love those blue-green orlon seat belts by HGW, the lack of readily available decals is not a problem for me. I'm interested if anyone can tell me how a "late-war" Bf109G-14 would've looked/been painted. I don't have a lot of reference materials on this aircraft and with the mud-hole of new, rebuilt, and modified airframe possibilities, it seems that almost any Luftwaffe camouflage scheme would be appropriate for lets say, a JG11 assigned bird (I like the yellow nose and RVG bands). There exists a photo of White 9 (I believe it's also posted in someone's thread here) but if I were to plan a fictitious "representative" machine (i.e., White 4), am I closer to being accurate if I use 74, 75, 76 or can I just about go wild with the late war Luftwaffe colors (81, 82, 83...and possibly the yellow-green version of 76) or go even wilder and mix them together on the same airframe? I'm thinking the G-14 will be a U4 (I love that 30mm cannon) and if I remember what I read in a thread here, there was just one factory that made the /U4 version (oh, and we MUST have the tall tail). I'm not super concerned about the authenticity of the scheme but I'd like to be "in the ballpark" so, any input is welcome Not sure if this belongs in LSP Discussion or in the Aviation Discussion and Research forum... I have a 50/50 shot Thanks!
  15. 1. Yes, the P-51D/K kit can be built into a "mid-to-later block" ETO aircraft - "mid-to-later block" meaning the D/K kit does not come with the tail without the fin fillet (a P-51D-5 cannot be built without the fillet-less tail - all others have the fillet - caveat: There are two types of fin filet, but that's not germane to your questions). 2. No, there are a few other minor differences between the P-51D and the P-51K (namely the Dallas hood [aka canopy]) but the prop is the main indicator and yes, both are included in the P-51D/K kit as is the Dallas hood (as well as the two other canopy options). CORRECTION: I somewhat misspoke when I said that a P-51D-5 cannot be built without the filletless tail... There were kits shipped to and installed in the field so it is possible to build a P-51D-5 with a fin fillet but that fin fillet will be of the early style; again, another topic. You will need to check the serial number or the data placard on the aircraft to find if the aircraft is a P-51D-5 and also have a corresponding shot of the tail to see if it has been modified or not.
  16. According to the P-51D/K Illustrated Parts Book, the tail tire is 12.5" x 4.5" so in 1/32 that equates to 0.391 inches or 9.92 mm. I'd say 9.7 is damn close to being dead nuts on. Color that "fatal flaw" debunked courtesy of Radu.
  17. Here's something that might be interesting (based on the thread topic). Toyota FJ43 Land Cruiser
  18. These are the results I'm getting on my 1/48 Hasegawa Typhoon. As you can see, it suffers from some bleed-through. The bottom roundel on the right wing had a really strange occurrence. The yellow MRP paint lifted when I pulled up the mask...no biggie as I have another mask that I can lay over it and respray the yellow. The bottom already has the Medium Sea Grey applied...
  19. So basically, I'm doing it correctly, including taping across the roundel to remove it from the sheet; I guess I just need a bit more practice. I noticed on your French build, you show a little bleed between the red and white in one of your photos. I guess it's the nature of the beast so I'll just have to make allowances as I progress. Thanks for the information and "how-to". I think the next time I need to "replace" a mask section, I'll use liquid mask around the periphery to seal the cut between the two areas so it won't bleed through.
  20. Completely agree and well worth the price (including shipping).
  21. Well, I was just able to pre-order my kit with shipping under $30 to me here in the East Coast of the USA. IF you're interested (and know there's a lot of us who are) here's the link to the pre-order page: Kotare Spitfire I Mid Pre-Order Web Page.
  22. This is an interesting development and I may try it sometime. I use the card at vacation venues I book online by entering card details, I don't physically have to swipe the card (which also triggers a card alert but since I did it, I delete the text/email alert). When I'm at the venue and if they don't already have the card on file, then I have to swipe the card but other than that, it doesn't usually come out of my wallet.
  23. Since I'm such a novice at using masks, I thought I'd ask the community about what the best practices are when trying to paint three and four color roundels (not to mention more colors). This is what I did: I cut the RAF C1 masks that i needed and proceeded to spray the different colors; each time removing and replacing a portion of the mask to add another color. I find that it's hit-and-miss and that some of the other colors (typically the darkest ones), seem to bleed between the mask cut lines even though the paint is mixed correctly and I didn't spray heavy coats. For instance, the outer ring on the roundel is yellow and I painted this prior to painting the dark blue (which I had to use enamel paint as I couldn't get the MRP version - nobody has stock). Anyway, I lifted the mask and around the outside edge of the yellow, there's some areas where the blue paint bled through the mask cut and there's little areas of dark blue at certain locations around the edges of the yellow ring. I don't think this is a huge issue as I'll just cut some appropriately sized circles to cover up the entire roundel when I paint the color coats so the offending dark blue areas should go away. Just curious if there's a better way to paint these?
  24. Boy, I can be such a rock sometimes.... I have a perfectly good Silouette Cameo 4 here on my bookshelf that's just dying for some use. So, I went over to Scale Model Paint Masks and looked for RAF Type C1 roudels. Low and behold, Thomas Lund had contributed just what I was looking for so kudo's to him for the submission! So, after a little bit of "training" I resized his roundel to fit my needs and sent to the cutter. I now have replacement masks for all six roundel locations on my Typhoon. Color me happy
  25. Ok, then now do I prevent dithering using spot colors and at the same time, adhere to the RAF CMYK equivalents? I don't have pass/layer information for those values.
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