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sluggo

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sluggo last won the day on April 29 2015

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About sluggo

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    Hooked For Life
  • Birthday 06/04/1964

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    Sugar Land, TX
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    models, guns, mustangs

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  1. This is obviously a production compromise to simplify the painting process at this particular factory. The drawing calls for a 2 inch constant border around the insignia. The proper border widths (using the ratio from spec) for 30 and 35 inch insignia would be 1.875 and 2.1875 respectively. So, on the 30 inch you are looking at a 1/8 inch deviation from spec and on a 35 inch 3/16ths. You could easily get away with this deviation because it would go unnoticed without measurement, probably even at scale. That said, it does not make the above formula correct. I'd also venture to guess it is where the 40/44 interpretation come from. I will add that I never noticed how many decals were "off" until I started laying properly dimensioned drawings over scanned decals. Now that I'm looking at the above drawing and thinking about it from a production standpoint, I would not doubt if this was common practice in other facilities as well. That said, I'm still hardcore "If it ain't true to spec, it ain't right". Along with the above, I agree with everything else Jennings has posted in this thread. The "diameter" always refers ti the inner diameter or circle the star fits into if you will, and is always a multiple of 5. The radius (of the inner circle) is simply used to calculate the other elements of the insignia. I think confusion about the ratio (particularly the bar placement) is rooted in the fact that a star is asymmetrical. You can see what I mean in the images below. Below we have a star in a 4 inch diameter (2 in radius) circle. The circle has a height and width of 4 inches, making symmetric. The star on the other hand is 3.808 in wide by 3.6216 high, making it asymmetric. The star and the circle below are "eyeball" centered. The blue cross-hairs represent the circle's center. Below you can see the star's true center compared to the circle's center. And here is what you get when you align centers. This is why the bars align relative to the star instead of the circle. Here is a finished 4 inch insignia produced using the ratio spec. The highlighted area being the 4 inch diameter, 2 inch radius starting point. Full dimension: 8.308" wide by 4.5" inch high. Why the oddball width? Because the star has an oddball width. I'm guilty of eyeballing the star's size, it probably should have came in around 3.8"
  2. Best I could turn up and where I'd start to make a vector drawing. Coupled with the Pegasus above, you can make a pretty nice vector. Good thing about it is you have a little wiggle room for "interpretation" because what's available is so void of detail. Different squadron but the same basic bones. https://launiusr.files.wordpress.com/2010/09/pdrm8846c.jpg
  3. Here's a rendering of the Pegasus. Not great but a starting point for vector work. http://img.wp.scn.ru/camms/ar/597/pics/9_16_a1.jpg Stylized version that seems to delineate line-work reasonably http://www.giftshop.uk.com/user/products/large/raf/35-raf-lapel.jpg
  4. I feel your pain brother. Try these stretches. Number 3 and 4 work for me and it's amazing how quickly it starts to help. The only one I have never tried is number 6. http://www.healthline.com/health/back-pain/sciatic-stretches#sitting-pigeon-pose3
  5. Most of the guys that buy stuff from me use extra Oracal 810 or pre-mask (paper transfer tape) which I supply when necessary. If you want to try the pre-mask which is a paper tape used in the sign industry I suggest using the pre-mask they recommend for Oracal 631 which is their removable wall vinyl.
  6. You should not assume the scanner will scan precisely 1:1 although it should. I don't know about the Silhouette software but in Illustrator you can draw it any size and then plug in the width or height you want and it will scale it for you.
  7. Try it.The worst that could happen is the paint might flake instead of cut.
  8. I would be willing to share my stuff as well. If others were interested, I even have a VPS server where we could set up FTP or forum based point of access. If there were enough interest, I'd even be willing to do a Webex session on Illustrator basics. I think I have 25 seats on my webex account. Maybe one of you other cats that run the Silhouette software could even be a guest host.
  9. I have not used the Silhouette software but I assume it is similar to Illustrator's trace image function. It does a reasonable job of turning an image into a vector but there's always clean-up and tweaking of nodes to do. I find more often than not, there are far more nodes generated by the software than is necessary. Particularly when it comes to letters.
  10. Without a doubt, the most intensive part of learning to do your own masks will be working with vectors. Once you have a solid grasp on that, the rest is childs-play. The great thing about working in vector format is you only have to draw it once. It can then be scaled up or down with no loss.
  11. I run a Summa cutter. I purchased it do do large format stuff like signs and vehicle graphics mainly. Being my 3rd cutter I did the homework and decided on this unit because of it's ability to cut tiny lettering. For the money, I'd say the Silhouette is the ticket if you want something that is economical and portable. There comes a point where you can cut a mask so small it's either too time consuming to weed or just plain unusable.
  12. Jim, Looking AWESOME! You've undertaken a daunting task and you're slaying it. Keep 'em coming.
  13. Splendid work Jim! By the time you are done you will be an expert at masking. Looking forward to the next update.
  14. Thanks guys! It was not deliberate. I painted them over with flat black then RLM 66 while painting the sidewall. I went back in with a brush and lacquer thinner to remove the paint from them. That process caused the insulation to discolor.
  15. Finally got one side of the cockpit presentable. Pretty much all from scratch. The oxygen bottle and map pocket are Bill's pieces. Fuse panel, junction boxes and primer are kit parts with a little reworking. Some touch up work to be done yet but I'm going to start on the other side and worry about touch-ups later.
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