CANicoll

Apologies up front!   I have been getting lazy not using my decent little macro Sony for these pics, so they are with my much more crappy pic taking smart phone! 
 
 
 
First up was covering the primer with the interior color overall.......................KHM recommends "Field Green" from MM, but as was discussed on another thread, it is far too light, and olive looking from what I can see on most color pics of the Kingfishers interior.  From what I could see, it was much more "P-47" like and looked much more like dull dark green.................so I went for MMs "Euro Dark Green".
You can see the basic paint has been applied, but in such a manor as to let SOME of the black primer show through for shading effect..................you can see the difference from the original basic paint w/shadows only, (MUCH harder to see in pics but it IS there)  to the one on the top that has been highlighted:
 

 
 
 
 
 
While the highlighting dried, I worked on detailing up the OOB radio and rear gunners compartment items, including the radio equipment, antenna, IP and side wall consoles:
 

 
 
 
 
 
With the cowls closed, I finished up the engine. You wont be able to see a whole lot of the back of the engine, so detailing there was left to a minimum, but did concentrate on the front, and exhausts, as you will be able to see some/all of those:
 

 

 
 
 
 
 
Then I finished up the seat belts (lap only for both positions) and glued the seat into the forward pilots bulkhead:
 

 

 
 
 
 
 
Once the radio and rear compartment parts were finished and detailed, I put on the one "dash/IP" decal for the rear gunner/radio operator. This was done in my normal KHM fashion by simply putting the decal right over the top of the part, positioning it like i wanted, then letting it settle to later have some Solvaset applied to let it conform to the part.
Many people hate this method, and dont think it looks good, but in this strictly OOB commission build, I wanted to apply things in the manor that a normal modeler building the kit would.
For whatever reason, I really have had quite good luck with KHMs kits doing this.   After applying the Solvaset, I put a drop of MM ultra gloss clear in each of the instrument depressions to simulate the glass.
I did this for both the rear gunners/radio ops mini IP as well as the pilots IP. The main IP turned out especially good using this method IMHO. The MAIN IP is not done yet, and still have to add a couple things to it, but its mostly complete:
 

 

 

 

 
 
 
 
 
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Indeed guys!   Im not sure if that stuff should comfort me, or scare the living bloody hell out of me...............
 
Not a TON done this weekend, as I was on-call all weekend, and had fun Christmas stuff to shop around for, and a ton of money to throw out.  Yay!   But I ALSO took care of some fun stuff, like getting to get some cool stuff for the LSP raffle, to keep my favorite hobby, and my favorite web site with my favorite people up and thriving!

 
Onto the fisher then..........
 
As was noted, not a ton of super interesting progress, but some major steps, I started assembling the other major parts of the air-frame, as I had to let certain stuff dry, and attend to the above stuff. The basic assembly did include the wings, horizontal stabs, rudder, elevators, flaps, and ailerons.
 
Here are the wings in progress being assembled with some Tamiya extra thin cement.  I attempted to get some shots of what the fit on the wings looks like, but my smart phone camera really wasnt up to the task..............
However, suffice it to say, the fit of the wing halves was EXCELLENT!  I mean really good:
 

 

 

 
 
 
 
 
I also did some assembly on the rest of the control surfaces, and this now should all be dry. While that was drying, I also got a start on detailing the OOB engine........................have I mentioned this thing is REAL nice?   Well, its REAL nice................the engine IS however a bit fiddly, as the push rod covers, intake pipes, and the like are all separate parts, but if you do not intend on opening up the cowl, some of this is extraneous, and will really NOT be seen in the end, as there is a baffle plate behind the cylinders that cuts off ALL view to the engine parts behind the cylinders.
 Engine is now mostly done, but still in progress here:
 

 
 
 
 
 
The much talked about attachment system KHM used on the wings is now all assembled. The fit on this was good, but needed some cleaning up of the square holes on the fuse. Once the little box that goes in the wings was centered and had dried, I did a dry fit of the wings to fuselage.
Fit here was GREAT, and needed absolutely nothing to hold it in almost perfect position:
 

 

 
 
 
 
 
I then took and dry fit the fuselage halves with the wings and main float.  This ALL was able to be held together with two fingers, if that gives you any idea about overall fit:
 

 

 

 

 
 
 
 
 
Ill hopefully be making more progress this wee/weekend, but with the tensions at home, things are slower on this than Id like.   More to come, and cheers!
 
 
 
 
 
 

SO FREAKING TRUE ITS SCARY my friend.    Its a sad and cold fact, but I want a partner who wants to be with me.............not one who needs to be with me. 

Thanks Tom!   I too have thought about that, and have in fact used it a couple times, but now I have been implementing a #11 exacto blade heated with a candle to cut near the part, and later used mini snips to sheer off the rest.
 
Thanks again for looking in on me!

Ok gents progress slowing a bit as the live in GF and I are breaking up (mutually this time) and have had to deal with her and her 20 year old daughter living with us as well..................its been a bit of conflict and realization that this is now coming to an end, and we both have to deal with it.............
 
 
Onto the modeling stuff.
 
This is not a huge update, but was necessary, as I did a lot of filling and sanding of the ejection marks on the fuselage. I then took and sprayed a layer of Mr Color 1500 black primer.
 
Sorry for the crap pic quality, but this was shot with my older smart phone, and the camera is just so-so. This stuff is SO smooth (on par with Tamiyas fine primers) that if you have never tried it, please do, WELL worth it. There is a TON of little parts in the fuselage of this kit, and so far the OOB detail really looks good IMHO. Ejection pin marks cleaned up nicely on the inside. Most you wont even notice as they are covered with internal parts, but some you will see:
 

 

 
 
 
 
Rear gunners section:
 

 
 
 
 
 
Misc small parts:
 

 

 
 
 
 
Engine is quite nice actually especially for what you will be able to see if you keep the cowls on:
 

 
 
 
 
Ala Matt/Doogs, I will also be utilizing this black primer layer to introduce some color variation to the interior color which is called out as FS34095/Field Green.  Im not 100% convinced this is accurate, but as this is a 100% OOB manufactures commission build, that is what I will be going with.
 
Im planning on hitting this thing again tonight and throughout the weekend, as things have calmed down with the GF, as we are both mutually agreed that they should move out, but as neither her, nor her daughter have jobs (part of the issue) and I have been paying for everything, they are not moving until spring or summer so she can get a job and her daughter can either find a job, or move out with her BF.
 
 
Thanks for stopping in on me, and cheers!
 

Now on the list for assembly was the engine exhaust...............
 
KHM did a really nice job here IMHO, as the OS2Us exhaust is quite complex actually, and getting it right is not easy I would not think when I came to molding. There are not only a lot of curves and loopbacks, but seams on the sides of the exhausts as well.
 
 
 
If your curious, here is the thing I have discovered about KHM new gen of LSP kits:
 
- Accuracy (generally) seem to be there, and there are not too many heinous errors in shape in this new generation of Kitty Hawk kits
- KHM prices their kits to complete, and you get a LOT of modeling bang for your buck.
- The fit is overall very good in most places.  And if something doesn fit, dry cleaning it up, and getting rid of any flash (and leading into my next point)
- KHM kits fit nice but do have some flash in places, and if your expecting a Tamiya kit for $65 your out of luck. 
 
 
To this end, I did and will likely have to do a lot of cleanup of parts with flash, but for the price and molding quality of this kit, I really don't mind. 
 
 
 
But I digress..................the engine exhaust was completed with Tamiya extra thin cement:
 


 

 
 
 
 
On the #5 cylinder shoot off pipe that intersects the main starboard exhaust, I also drilled it out a bit from the main side as well:


 
 




 
 
I also worked on the rear gun and gunners station a bit. This whole thing is REALLY nice IMHO. PE for the sliding track grill, as well as the swivel mount for the machine gun:
 

 

 

 
 
 
 
Just all dry fit together ATM:
 





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The next thing to start assembling was the firewall. The firewall here contains the indention's where the rudder pedals set, has the IP and IP shroud off of it, and is blended to fit with the contours of the windscreen opening.
The back of the firewall also contains the body of the forward mounded (and optically scoped through the windscreen).50 cal, the ejection chute and a little PE cocking handle that I still have yet to add.
 
I am finding EXCELLENT fit here gentlemen..................
 
 
The fuse is not even taped together here, but just resting together with the windscreen resting on top.  With some slight finger pressure it will come together and should need NO filler, but will need some polishing before a dip in Future:
 

 
 
 
 
Firewall fits really well, and locks securely in the right place only:
 

 
 
 
 
IP shroud attached to the firewall, and IP to the shroud could NOT fit any better, and any ill fit here looks like it would be due to user error:
 

 

 
 
 
 
Here you can see a small glimpse of the .50 cal under the IP:
 

 
 
 
 
It was a small amount of fetteling to get it to set right in the opening, and you have to cut out the ejection chute opening yourself (as I think some versions did not carry the forward facing .50 cal) but in the end fit was excellent:
 

 
 
 
 
Lastly for last night, I dry fit the rear cockpit bulkhead that the pilots seat will eventually attach to, and found the same thing; excellent fit overall:
 

 

 
 
 
 
You can also see my smoothing and filling attempts in the bottom of the fuse, which I think will turn out great, and remove all hints of any ejection marks:
 

 
 
 
 
Well,all for this installment kiddies! Im back on the OS2U tonight into tomorrow, so likely more progress to report I hope before I return to work on Monday.

It works well on brittle clear parts, too. It's not my trick - I learned it on LSP!

A nice start, Brian - I can't wait to get mine! I cringe when I see all those sprue attachment points, too. I have taken to sticking a worn exacto blade in a candle flame, and melting them off...

Brian,
 
AMAZING work and I'm eagerly following along with what you are doing and taking notes.  Your attention to detail and bringing out the best of the kit is amazing.
 
One question regarding the lapbelts.  I can't find any references to what the actual lap belts looked like, but how do those buckles work?  Respectfully, and please correct me as I must be wrong, but they look like two of the same side belts.
 
Please keep the pictures and your commentary coming!
 
Chris

Thanks Chuck!   I used MM rust as a base, then applied varying AKI pigments, then applied a dull coat, then applied some AKI "soot" to the inside of the exhausts to give it a different sheen from the rest of the exhaust.  You wont be able to see a ton of it, but what you will see, should look decent. 

I have a feeling you have all the references you need, but if you want pictures of the Udvar-Hazy plane, let me know.  I live 10 minutes away and happy to take some pics for you.
 
Can't wait to follow along with your build.

I have a feeling you have all the references you need, but if you want pictures of the Udvar-Hazy plane, let me know.  I live 10 minutes away and happy to take some pics for you.
 
Can't wait to follow along with your build.

Nicely done crew boarding latter:
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
 
 
 
Thats all for now folks! Ill be starting this one in the next day or two, as even though Im going back on call on Thanksgiving, I have Thurs, Fri Sat, Sun off, so I think I will start the Kingfisher in earnest!!

Well gents, this is it, Kitty Hawk Models brand new 1/32nd OS2U Kingfisher!    This will be a demonstrator model for Glen @ KHM, to display at shows and what-not to promote the kit.
The kit itself has been VERY anticipated not just by me, but as I can see by the reaction on the forums and social media, by a LOT of others as well. Im pretty sure others here will be doing an IBR of the OS2U, so I will not be going into every single detail that the kit has in it, as the minutia of the kit will be covered in great detail Im sure.
I will go over what I normally would on a WIP, as this is a build review first and foremost, to give those interested in the kit and opportunity to see how the kit builds up.
On to the show then!
 
This one will be strictly OOB since its a manufacturers demo, but I have yet to determine the scheme, as I believe Glen has something special in mind for this.
The kit in OOB form is QUITE nice, and I can say I honestly have NO affiliation with KHM, other than building these types of demo models, and this kit might have some of the best molding features I have yet seen from this new gen of KHM LSPs.
 
As my standard WIP fair, I like showing what we have up front. The kit itself is really well molded, has excellent surface detail, and so far I find no mold issues, short shots or other manu flubs.
 
 

 
 
 
 
The glass parts come in the now standard KHM separate box inside the kit, keeping them safe and out of harms way.
The instructions are now the standard 8x5 or so booklet style with clear and concise directions, also containing all of the OOB scheme profiles as well. Some very attractive schemes chosen IMHO:
 









Decals are also well done, and in register, and include IP decals, as this method seemed to work decent as an OOB solution on my Bronco as well:






On to the plastic then!
The kit looks to be well engineered, and has some very fine detail to it, including raised rivets, and even some raised panels, and recessed panel lines:














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And use 320-400 grit sand paper taped on a piece of glass, like a piece of old picture frame glass. Wet it with water or windex. Make sure the glass is on a flat clean surface with no high points or you'll crack the glass.

I'd suggest gluing it to the end of a square 2x2ish or bigger piece of wood with a good flat surface using white glue. Let dry then sand as Bill suggested. 

New information has come to light from the folks at Airfix regarding the Hawker Typhoon instructions, so I have updated my review accordingly.

http://www.sim-outhouse.com/sohforums/showthread.php?67911-OT-P-51D-Cockpit-Progression-Walk-Through

Score, Grey Matter uncuffed hamilton standard square-tipped prop ordered!
Seeya there

Thanks Chris, I hadn't seen that pic. I should be at the meeting next month - no work travel that week.

For very small chips or eroded paint effect around the panels, you can use silver pencils. It's very easy to use.
 
Acrylic metallic paint often have pretty big flakes and the effect may not be so good than with an enamel paint. At the moment, i mostly use "Mr metal color". It dries very fast and is very thin. I think it's enamel, but strangely you can clean the brushes with alcohol, so i dont know what it is exactly.

Crikey! A lamp, too? Are you kidding me? That's awesome!
 
Kev

Just finished this last night, this is my version of Urban Drew's Detroit Miss. The model is a 1/32 Tamiya p-51d mustang with a few items added, the items added were the barracuda resin tires, decals used were by, Zoukei-mura, barracuda decals for the cockpit , and fundekals for the insignia and a few other items. Colors used were by alclad spray metals and Mr Color for the other areas. I hope you guys like my latest build, comments and suggestions are welcome
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This year at Telford, I was "challenged" to build a diorama of rather large proportions. (I am not disclosing exactly what tat the moment just in case it all falls by the wayside,) 
 
Suffice to say I may have bitten off more than i can chew.
 
Challenge accepted though. here we go part 1 complete.