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  1. Like
    CANicoll got a reaction from D.B. Andrus in Tamiya P-51D, Maybe Big Beautiful Doll?   
    Ok, FINALLY got the checkers on and while they are not perfect, I'm about as happy with the decals as I can be.  It only took about $50 and three sets.  I'm not usually such a slow learner...
    The strip of white on the lower panel will become silver in time but much happier with the alignment overall.

    In this next picture the top panel shifted just a bit forward, but the checkers are much more aligned than before.  
    The MicroSol is already working, having learned the lesson to put it on first, THEN the decal, then more MicroSol.  I still have some touching up to do on the black.  The top panel is about as snugged down as I can get it and this is after many applications of Solvaset.  

    Here is the bottom before I fixed it up the little bubbles and such.  The decal looks a bit long but I have a red chin scoop that is not checkered, but somewhere I have the overall alignment off a bit as the bottom decal does not quite come to the back of the bottom panel.  But since I used the exhaust cutouts as the main alignment point (since it is so visible) I'm not going to sweat it.  The bottom decal still took a lot of cuts to smooth out the bubbles and arches, but I think it looks pretty good.  Leaving it alone for the rest of the night and will look at it tomorrow sometime.  Have to let the MicroSol work and not mess with it while it is still wet.

    More tomorrow!
  2. Like
    CANicoll got a reaction from D.B. Andrus in Tamiya P-51D, Maybe Big Beautiful Doll?   
    Even with the decal saga (more on that shortly) making progress in other areas as well.  After giving a go to the Eduard PE ammo belts and not really liking the flatness of the PE ammo I returned to the kit parts.  All brush painted with Acryl Brass followed with flat aluminum cartridge links.  The wash is an old brown wash I keep in a bottle - it has some nasty bits in the bottom which is perfect for presenting an inconsistent look.  This picture taken shortly after the wash was applied, and the bottom left 'quadrant' has not had the wash applied yet to show the difference.

    The feeder trays that connect the ammo troughs to the guns were long so had to cut off the ends that attach to each gun, but still like the effect very much.  Here everything is being test fitted after I applied just a bit of a black wash to the trays to highlight the different rounds.  I still need to paint the cartridge links flat aluminum.  Now that I know I'm going to have at least one side open (or at least open-able) I will clean up the top seams on the guns and add some detailing.

    Even better, with the cut down ammo feed trays, the wing panels fit perfectly.

    In the photograph the gun cover panels look gray, but actually are painted with aluminum plate buffing metalizer.
    Back to the decals -
    After doing a bit of testing, I found the Zotz decals perform much better if a base of Solvaset or MicroSol is put down first, then the decal.  You don't have a lot of time to move things around, about a minute, but then best to leave it be.  Here is the bottom panel with both sides attached.

    And with the bottom checkers in place.  The fit is pretty good, and with a bit of work the checkers line up pretty well. I stil made a few cuts about midway back and then closer to the back to eliminate some bowing.  I need to clean up that one black checker with the white line in it, but otherwise the checkers worked pretty well .  More to come once everything sets up and dries.

  3. Like
    CANicoll reacted to Delayar in Tamiya P-51D "Jumpin Jacques"   
    I have been alittle bit sloppy with my documentation recently, but here it is anyway.
    After filling and painting the wings with aluminium paint (I used Tamiya AS12 for that), I painted the bare metal surfaces with Alclad Aircraft Aluminium (after a bas coat of gloss black).

    The wingtips were also painted before attaching the control surfaces.
    I forgot to take pictures of the painting of the invasion stripes. I also tried to paint the national insignia by using paint masks, but I wasn't satisfied with ist, so I removed them again.
    Maybe I will make another try, testing the procedure on some scrap material.
    After the Stripes were painted, I finally glued the wings to the fuselage.

    The bottom:

    The radiator intake was the part of the build, which so far needed the most filling and sanding.

    The rounded dome which was lost during sanding will be replaced by a PE part.
    I also painted the ammunitions belt.

    And inserted the ammunition into the gun bay.

    And here at last a picture with the engine cowling fitted and open gun bays.
    Everything fits perfectly.

  4. Like
    CANicoll reacted to Kahunaminor in Tamiya Spitfire Mk XVIe No. 485 (NZ) Squadron RAF, OU-V, Fassberg 1945   
    Engine work continues:




  5. Like
    CANicoll reacted to chuck540z3 in 1/32 P-38L "Kicked Up A Notch". Jan 15/16: FINISHED!   
    July 15/15
    Thanks Guys!  I really appreciate the words of encouragement.
    Another small update.  Maybe boring, but I want to document every important step- and this one is VERY important, as you will soon see! 
    Before you glue the lower wings and bottom fuselage to the top wing, you need to install the 4 flaps and the ailerons to the upper wing.  I made up the flaps and ailerons months ago and I applied some black lacquer primer to the inside edges, which will be very hard if not impossible to paint later after assembly.  When you glue the little hinges into the slots in the upper wing, made sure the flap or aileron is flush to the top of the upper wing before you commit to CA glue.  Once the hinge slots are filled with CA glue, there's no turning back.  So far so good. 
    After the flaps and ailerons were installed, I dry fit the lower wings.  The fit wasn't too bad, but then again, this is a Trumpeter kit.
    I then dry fit the lower fuselage over the inner flaps and things did not fit well at all.  The flaps would not move hardly at all, so I started to sand down the tight fit, when it occurred to me:  “Are the flaps installed in the right location?† Checking the wonderful Trumpeter instructions, they were no help, because there is no detail or other hints to give you some guidance as to which flap fit where.  You're just supposed to know, even though I made them up months ago.  Looking at things a bit closer, the light bulb turned on:  “The flaps are all glued in left to right and vice versa!!!  AGGGGHHHHH!!!â€
    Upon further inspection, there is a slight angle to the side of the flaps, allowing the flap to fit tightly with the wing parts while still being able to move with the dihedral of the wing.  With the flaps flipped left to right (all 4), they were now binding with the wing.  Briefly, but only briefly, I actually considered leaving them as is.  With some sanding and tweaking, I could make them work, but the gaps and fit would always be poor- and wrong.  Time to suck it up and correct the problem.  This problem occurred very easily, so I highly suspect I'm not the first one to encounter it, because the error is not glaring.  What threw me is that the upper surface of the aileron has a lot of rivet detail, while the bottom of it is fairly plain, so I did the same with the flaps, keeping the extra rivet detail up top.  I now know that it should be on the bottom, opposite of the ailerons.  BTW, the ailerons are correct, because during assembly the hinges are glued into place, unlike the flaps.  Had the flap hinges been glued during assembly, this problem would never have happened, because the hinges have a hook that can only face in one direction- the correct direction.
    I tried a number of methods to get the flaps off the hinges without breaking fragile plastic parts and what finally worked was to use a small thin flat screwdriver to pry the side of the hinge off the pin on one side of each flap.  Surprisingly, it worked very well and nothing broke or was scratched and the hinge did not bend out of shape.  WHEEEEEW!!!
    So here is a pic of how things should look attached to the upper wing.  As mentioned already, a coat of gloss black lacquer was sprayed to the inner edges of the flaps and ailerons to making painting these areas a lot easier later.

    With the lower wings and fuselage dry fitted, the flaps and ailerons now move freely.

    And fit nice and flush with the wing and fuselage braces when retracted in the up position.

    Before I glue everything together, there's an area on the wing that still needs a lot of work.  The landing/taxiing light lens at the front of the left wing is fairly crude and it fits into a chunky fitting at the front of the wing.

    As with many parts of the wing halves, panel lines do not match very well, so I have a lot of filling and re-scribing to do.  The raised shroud around this light was sanded down earlier top and bottom, because it was way too high for scale.  The landing light lens doesn't look too bad at the bottom when installed.  With a little work, I can get it to fit flush and correct the panel line flaws…..

    But the top, which you can see all the time, shows that big tab at the top of the lens.

    A closer look.  Pretty sad- and where the heck is the LIGHT!?  Trumpeter does not supply one- just the crappy lens.

    So I have quite a bit more work to do before I glue the wings together.  I'm going to trim the inner wing and remove the upper lens tab, then clean up the lens and add a nice light behind it.  This could take a while!
    Thanks for checking in.
  6. Like
    CANicoll reacted to LSP_Kevin in Kitty Hawk P-39 boxart   
    Yeah, that's a beauty.
  7. Like
    CANicoll reacted to KAGNEW in Kitty Hawk P-39 boxart   
    coming in July

  8. Like
    CANicoll got a reaction from D.B. Andrus in 1/48 Tamiya Mustang III   
    Build of a Tamiya kit, this time the 1/48 Mustang III kit paired with the Techmod decal sheet. A great subject matter that doesn't get a lot of attention in the bigger kits.    The Mustang III's were very interesting in their camo and markings.




  9. Like
    CANicoll reacted to MARU5137 in 1/48 Tamiya Mustang III   
  10. Like
    CANicoll reacted to gunpowder in 1/48 Tamiya Mustang III   
    Nice model. Its on my to do list.
  11. Like
    CANicoll got a reaction from Alburymodeler in 1/48 Tamiya Mustang III   
    Build of a Tamiya kit, this time the 1/48 Mustang III kit paired with the Techmod decal sheet. A great subject matter that doesn't get a lot of attention in the bigger kits.    The Mustang III's were very interesting in their camo and markings.




  12. Like
    CANicoll got a reaction from MARU5137 in 1/48 Tamiya Mustang III   
    Kev, Very nice for your wife.  I named a B-17 I did after mine.  Not sure she thought it was much of an honor tho (maybe it was the accompanying nose art...)

    The B/C cockpit, ugh.  I can't imagine how to do that on a 1/32 kit.  But if I could find a 1/32 B/C/Mustang III I'd scoop it up in an instant!
    Good luck!
  13. Like
    CANicoll got a reaction from MARU5137 in 1/48 Tamiya Mustang III   
    Build of a Tamiya kit, this time the 1/48 Mustang III kit paired with the Techmod decal sheet. A great subject matter that doesn't get a lot of attention in the bigger kits.    The Mustang III's were very interesting in their camo and markings.




  14. Like
    CANicoll got a reaction from Model_Monkey in Tamiya P-51D, Maybe Big Beautiful Doll?   
    Finally getting down to the last stages, finding that I still had decal problems and a few broken pieces to deal with as well.  On a lark and based on some of the model pictures here as well as from the internet of period photos I took the jump and plumbed the drop tanks.  I'm a bit of a pack rat so in my stash I had some solid core wire that I thought would be perfect for the task.  I drilled out the indentations already in the kit piece and in the drop tanks as well.  I painted the insulation black.  

    It took a bit of fitting to get the lengths correct, made more difficult by the solid core wire that is fairly stiff (but a plus for adding rigidity).  I used thick CA glue inside the gun port part to really anchor the wire figuring (correctly) that I'd be doing some further bending to get the wires properly situated on the drop tanks.
    I really like the effect but still need to paint on the hose clamps.

    Also I was literally seconds away from attaching the filler cap to the drop tank when I realized I had the wrong cap - late model drop tanks had the flush cap (verified by pictures).  Had to go back into the bag of unused parts to find the right ones and hit the paint again. 
    Taking the masking off the canopy I somehow had broken the canopy reinforcing arch in two.  I was able to glue to back together but have not put it back in the canopy yet.  Also, had a bit of bleed on one of the front masks I need to fix, but am definitely winding down (FINALLY!)
    You will probably notice that the red outline is now a lot thicker than previous photos.  For some reason, the Zotz red outline would not adhere to the model and flaked off on handling - even under a light coat of clear.  Back to the decal set and pulled in the EagleCal outline which adhered beautifully and set down as usual with the EagleCal decals.

    Not perfect, but after 2 years, happy to be wrapping this up!



    Will finish her up this weekend and take some more complete photosets and post over in the Ready for Inspection forum.  
  15. Like
    CANicoll reacted to Tomcat14 in Tamiya P-51D, Maybe Big Beautiful Doll?   
    Beautiful Job on the Mustang and decaling.
    Chris Causey
  16. Like
    CANicoll reacted to LSP_Kevin in Tamiya P-51D, Maybe Big Beautiful Doll?   
    Looks awesome, Chris. Well done!
  17. Like
    CANicoll got a reaction from Whitey in Tamiya P-51D, Maybe Big Beautiful Doll?   
    Now she has her name on.  Still fighting with the three different decals.  Love the EagleCal set as they are so thin, the carrier basically disappears and they react wonderfully to just one or two applications of Solvaset (the wingtip checkers, the BBD script and the kills are all EagleCal).  Zotz nose checkers fit really well and the red outline also fits so easily and perfectly, but the wide carrier film is an annoyance.  The red outlines are so thin I didn't want to trim the carrier away for fear of breaking up the line.  Surprisingly the Tamiya decals do not respond all that well to MicroSol either, or Solvaset for that matter.  The national markings are having a hard time getting down into all the panel lines - it is taking multiple applications of setting solution to make it work and even then, not thrilled with the loss of detail.  This is rapidly making me think about the masks esp for the larger decals.
    Still work to do on some painting touch up now that I have the checkers outlined, but right now waiting for the red lines to dry so I can cut the panels loose. Working on the drop tanks (banged one of them up a bit so have to repaint) and the plumbing for the drop tanks.


    Top view.  The left national insignia is actually two different pieces (decal from the Tamiya kit) that fit the removable panel perfectly.  There is a second cut-out piece as well for the multi-part panel for the open display.
  18. Like
    CANicoll got a reaction from MARU5137 in Tamiya P-51D, Maybe Big Beautiful Doll?   
    Sorry for the delays, but finally back to making some progress.  The nose decals remain an enigma with the Zotz decals fitting much better, but if I were to do this again, I'm definitely going the mask-route.  Ugh.  Started looking at the decals again: the red-outline of the exhaust cut outs (not on the Zotz set) from the EagleCal BBD 1/32 decal set do not fit the Tamiya kit. Sigh.
    I used the Model Master Aluminum Plate Metalizer on the fuselage, but I swear it looks almost exactly the same at the Tamiya Chrome Aluminum on the wings!  Smoother for sure, but the same shade.  Hoping in better light I'll see a difference.




    There is still a bit of touch-up I need to do on the checkers, and I'm a bit concerned about the fit of the nose panels, but she's getting there slowly!
  19. Like
    CANicoll got a reaction from Bravo52 in Tamiya P-51D Lazy Daisy   
    Super nice work!  Really looks great.  Your nose pieces seem to fit a lot tighter than mine do, Any secrets there?
  20. Like
    CANicoll reacted to MustangManiac in Tamiya 1/32 Early P-51D "Lou IV" finished 07-09-15   
    BTW Canicoll, I've been watching your struggle with the checkers. It looks like it may be coming together for you finally. Yes it looks like the third time is the charm this time. Keep up the good work!
  21. Like
    CANicoll reacted to Bravo52 in Tamiya P-51D Lazy Daisy   
    Here is my Tamiya Mustang finished with Stencil Pal stencils.  I really liked the "other" mustang that was on the box top of the Tamiya kit but no one made decals.  So in an effort to learn something new, I used a set of Lazy Daisy stencils made by our very on Sluggo from Stencil Pal.  The experience was great and I'd recommend those stencils to everyone!   I'll have to caveat this with my photographic skills are not good and there are still one or two things left to do, but for all intents, this one is done.  Here are the basics of the build:

    Stencils were used for the nose art, tail number and squadron markings

    I wanted to be able to show off the engine. 


    The quality of the kit is amazing.  When you can start using "Tamiya" as a verb....

    The cockpit is a kit in and of it's self!


    Hope everyone enjoys!  As far as I know, it's the only Lazy Daisy out there!

  22. Like
    CANicoll reacted to BloorwestSiR in Tamiya DH Mosquito FB VI- Stickers! Err, decals.   
    K2, I finished the second one and the fit was much better after I gave the nubs a quick shave as I previously mentioned. I think with a coat of paint the small gaps will be hard to see.
    Since I'm not really building in order (as long as it all fits together in the end  ), I started on the engines.
    The main block and cylinder heads are from the Spitfire kit but there are changes throughout so I had to make sure I was using the right part. The original engine sprue:

    One change is the inclusion of magnets into the cylinder head covers. These look like they're used to hold the exhaust covers in place.

    Not a great pic, but the part in the upper left corner P1 is from the new sprue and you can see the slight differences in it compared to the original Spitfire one.

    Here's the engine block, cylinder heads and supercharger assembled (x2) and ready for a coat of paint. The two bits in the upper right are a pair of jigs for attaching the cylinder heads at the right angle. This is something new that wasn't in any of the Spitfire kits or the Mustangs.

    The jigs just slide onto either end of the block...

    ...then you attach the cylinder heads and they're at the correct angle.

    I've left the left cylinder bank off to make it easier for painting. Once I have paint on, I'll re-use the jig and attach them.
  23. Like
    CANicoll reacted to BloorwestSiR in Tamiya DH Mosquito FB VI- Stickers! Err, decals.   
    Here's the tires with the clamps off.

    There are nine parts that make up the tread: 7 are the same with three making up the area surrounding the bulge.


    Here they are cemented in place.


    You can see a slight gap in this one which was the first one I attached.

    I gave the small square nub on the centre section a quick scrap with an X-ato and that helped to improve the fit. Also, when removing the attachment stubs, I would suggest trimming any remnants off carefully rather than sanding them. 
    I'll see how the second one goes together which should be a bit better but overall, they do go together well.
  24. Like
    CANicoll reacted to BloorwestSiR in Tamiya DH Mosquito FB VI- Stickers! Err, decals.   
    I decided to start with the tires, partly because that will give me some time for the belts and decals to arrive but also because I wanted to see how they go together. All the parts are together on one sprue which is nice.

    The tires have an inner section that is assembled first, to which you add the tread and sidewalls to. 

    These are noticeably bulged:

    With the sidewalls attached:

    The bulge is reduced a bit with the sidewalls in place but is still there. Although they are bulged, the sidewalls are not keyed so it it possible to glue them in upside down. They will fit but not well if you do. I used Tamiya Extra Thin cement to glue them in place and clamped them to ensure a tight fit. 
  25. Like
    CANicoll got a reaction from MikeC in 1/48 Tamiya Mustang III   
    Build of a Tamiya kit, this time the 1/48 Mustang III kit paired with the Techmod decal sheet. A great subject matter that doesn't get a lot of attention in the bigger kits.    The Mustang III's were very interesting in their camo and markings.




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