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Scott Negron

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About Scott Negron

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    LSP Junkie

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  1. I got the Aires set, which are the nicest on the market but they were undersized. I sent Aires a photo and they sent me a replacement set in this GREEN resin that fit perfectly. Had to do the same for the Fw190 wheel bays. All have their issues, kit wheel bays are weak and CMK aren't very good. The Aires are the closest but you'll need to add the starboard wing duct tube (often overlooked), and the covers on the lightening holes along the leading edge of the wheel bay probably shouldn't be there. I didn't know until Ryan send me drawings in Japanese that show very subtle differences between Mitsubishi and Nakajima, and through the 2, 3 and 5 versions (just an interesting factoid you can impress the ladies with):)! Good luck friends!
  2. No it's absolutely a paint coating, I was just referring to the finish, which is very smooth and looks more like anodized coating that a paint coating. A very effective corrosion resistant coating. If I recall, as post war allied report that examined it mentioned it had better corrosion resistance properties than allied zinc chromate. I will post some better pics, as well as some articles combined from J-aircraft.com posts. New aotake club members:)!?
  3. Thanks, yes, you hit it on the head. Holding the actual stuff, it looks more like it's anodized than painted! That type of surface finish. I have used that same method for replicating aotake since the first Tamiya aotake came out (XF-13) by letting the silver in it settle and pouring out just the top translucent part. Then I started using clear blue, clear green and plain clear to make it and spray atop All-Clad. I've found a base coat of gloss back, followed by chrome or high polished aluminum Al-Clad, then the aotake coat(s) makes the best results. I have green and blue DYE from Chemco that I'm going to try adding a few drops of each to some Future, see how that comes out. The real trick is getting it thin and smooth enough, with a nice metal underneath. I'd try Bare Metal Foil but you really can't see much back there and not worth it I think. I'll take and post better pics of my samples.
  4. Yes, Sensei (or more appropriately Shogun) Ryan has pointed this out to me and I need to make it. It's the black box in the top left of this pic: Exhaust gas analyzer, sounds like modern emissions sensor:)!
  5. Haha:)! You'll do just fine, nothing tricky, just takes time, a bit of wire and beads, and good eyesight (which I no longer have so it's #10 Optivisor:(!)
  6. Now, I don't have to make a post myself:)!!! Here is the port side Aires part. It's missing the linkage for the throttle and mixture controls, cowl flap lever and wing nut to adjust tension and threaded stock to adjust, hook to attach parachute to, and some other plumbing and controls that Ryan can probably tell us what they are (LOL)! I sure wish I could read Japanese! There's also a flexible romex cable for the cockpit light. The dyno shelf needs to be added too. Once completed I will run the cables back through the rear bulkhead, I left them extra long for that purpose. The starboard side has the added tail hook indicator and cable to the crank to retract it. The zero tail hook could be "opened up" to release the plane from the carrier arresting cable. I need to tighten some of them up. There's also a twist pair of leads to the cockpit lamp. The morse code shelf is empty. Ryan indicated probably only shotaicho or higher likely had them. I scratch build a separate more panel Here is the cockpit floor. Note the bottom of the rudder pedals. I ground the bottom out and added rod styrene to replicate the wrapped hemp pedal bottom. Later models (A6M3) had the design in the kit parts. They are also missing some rivets. I added the foot straps from wire and added the brake lines and PE brackets, and of course the rudder pedal cables. There's a spring missing as resistance for the pedal adjustment star wheel (PE part) I also re-shaped the control stick boot and added the 3 snaps. There are a few lines missing, and the T handles I replaced with styrene rod The rear panel is pretty much stock w/ PE and lead solder for the bungee cord for raising the seat: Unfortunately, my seat pictures suck:( Out of focus. I thinned it down, drilled the side lightening holes you picked out, added back the rivet details and missing brackets on the rear for the seat belt attachment. I also replaced the rear main horizontal bracket, I had to sand the original off to get the thinnest possible seat. I made the brackets seat belt retaining brackets (look like ears with 3 position holes) but don't have pics. I'm in the middle of cleaning up and painting mine so hopefully I'll have better pics soon, looks MUCH better with a coat of paint! Note the wire around the perimeter. I filled the seam w/ super thin CA glue to remove the seam, cut the corers off to replicate the outer wire frame the sheet metal was wrapped around.
  7. Aires is notorious for resin shrinkage. They have great customer service though and will send you replacement parts in a funky green color! There is a bit of extra plumbing you can add with fine solder. I also used the Eduard parts for levers and added Martha Stewart craft beads for the round knobs (you get about a million for $4 and the vary slightly in size making them perfect for 1/32 knobs). There is a correction needed (if you want to go through the trouble) to the kit rudder pedals. I can post pics if you like? There's also the amazing Yahu dashboard made for it. He's also currently working on zero cockpit placards, which are prominent in them. If your parts are slightly warped, put them in hot water (about 180 F) for about 5-10 seconds then in ice water and they should return to original shape.
  8. Nice:) I would HIGHLY recommend the Rexx exhausts, they are so realistic you can actually see the openings of the smaller feed tubes! The actually come weathered metal like the real thing and not aluminum like the picture shows. You can but them here: https://eshop.scalehobby.eu/Metal-exhausts-REXx-c4_17_2.htm I can help you out with detailing the Aires cockpit when you are ready. I have 2 extra copies of my seat, trying to get more cast for interested forum members.
  9. According to "Japanese WWI Aircraft in Color," (Martin Ferkel), Matsuyama destroyed 2 P40-'s during the PH attack, which makes it an interesting subject. I have the Model Art PH Special which has most of the a/c in the raid in color profiles, so I can help with others. Depends on if you want to go the "colorful" route or historic significance on PH zeros. As for this: The Aires cockpit set - let’s see if it’s an improvement over the kit parts. - It adds a lot of detailing not in the kit cockpit, and/or Eduard PE including a lot of plumbing, and the lightening holes around the inside of the opening behind the pilots seat. I'm using it, PE and a lot of scratch building. Aires wheel wells - mostly for the inner wheel doors. - I'm using these for the wheel bays themselves as they are much more detailed that the kit parts, or CMK. They have (incorrect) covers on the lightening holes on the leading edge, and the rivets are small holes instead of raised. Quickboost pitot - because I’m a lazy pig. Now I don’t have to remove a mold seam. Ah well, it was only a couple of Euro’s so I thought: “What the heck, since I’m already stocking up...” You can use the Master brass pitot tube from the A6M5 set, much sturdier CMK Zero 52 wheels - Originally meant for the Hasegawa kit, they lack tread. That makes them suitable for early-war carrier-based Zeros. Provided the wheel- and tire size didn’t change between the Models 21 and 52... Otherwise I have to make castings of Tamiya’s wheels plus vinyl tires and fill in the tread.... Ugh! Brassin wheels for Hasegawa A6M5c are incorrect as they HAVE tread whereas the A6M2 had smooth tread. Also, the lettering and tire size numbers are incorrect. I will post a pic. Hoping to get these draw and cast properly this year so I can finish mine:)! HGW stencilling - no decal film.... I repeat... I can post pics of my results so far but I'm trying to get a better camera first, and I don't want to hijack your thread so maybe I should start mine finally! I think I can get my seat, drop tank and tail hook/bay available soon. May have to induct some of you into my "Aotake Club," we lost a member (Keith Davidson of Red Pegasus Decals) a few years back and need some new members!
  10. Hope he didn't use the relief tube during a roll:)! I'm sure Boyington put it to good use (LOL)!
  11. I would say the port wing is probably blue gray (top and bottom, looks lighter in the above pic), but could possibly have a field applied non specular sea blue on top? Note the older 6 position marking under the wing with added bar. Aileron looks darker too (replacement in Non Spec Blue on blue gray wing)? Yes, TQ is amazing:)!
  12. Awesome, I didn't know they made DDG. Thanks:)!
  13. Here is a nice drawing of A6M3 cockpit frontal view. I can't read Japanese :(, so I don't know the differences. Note the change in rudder pedals, which changed somewhere during the A6M3 production from the earlier version with a (hemp?) wrapped bottom pedal to the all metal version in the Tamiya kit (incorrect for and A6M2 or early A6M3). There are also changes to the small panel beneath the IP (oxygen flow regulator), and the small box with 3-4 pull handles on the bottom right floor. But we need Sensei Ryan for more details, I have pics but can't tell you when they changed. I believe the top is a 32, bottom a 22.
  14. same here brother:(! Thierry, I have what you are looking for and will post tonight (most courtesy of our Ryan)!
  15. I just spoke with my buddy Alfonso Rodriguez about this. He know as much about this as anyone about Corsairs with the exception of Dana Bell. He mentioned 740 had a replacement wing from an older Corsair, possibly a birdcage with the old blue gray/gray scheme. He said Fundecals has the marking right. He also mentioned the US national insignias were sating and had more of a sheen than the rest of the aircraft. If you can get a copy of "Swashbucklers and Black Sheep," I shows how truly filthy these things were in the field, often not replicated in some builds. Check out some of the armor weathering on www.missing-lynx under "Constructive Comments" to see some weathering techniques that would work great on a Solomon Islands Corsair! DDG was only made my one company and it's OPP, but a near dead ringer (ironically) is Model Master Japanese Aircraft Carrier Type 1:)! 740 was an early -1a which likely has the various sub contractor parts in DDG, although I can't say what (seat?). I'll try and get Alfonso to chime in. Awesome work again pal!
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