Skydancer Posted April 19, 2018 Author Share Posted April 19, 2018 Update... Worked well with painting Starfighter, Menelaos, Out2gtcha and 5 others 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dodgem37 Posted April 19, 2018 Share Posted April 19, 2018 Nicely done. Sincerely, Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A-10LOADER Posted April 21, 2018 Share Posted April 21, 2018 Excellent job Volker, those came out looking awesome !! Very nice job on the tail stiffeners also. Loving these updates. Do you have GE F110 nozzles ? Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skydancer Posted April 23, 2018 Author Share Posted April 23, 2018 @ Steve, yes I bought them (resin) on eBay more than a year ago. I think this is something nobody should built scratch However, over the weekend I started to do something else than the rudders (which are finished now). So I decided to built the MK82s and the LANTIRN pod. Both are 3D printed parts, which are good in detail, but bad in working with. To get them more stable, I filled them with a complete out-hardened putty, so nothing of the thin structures can break. The surfae has been sanded so there are no rings to find from the 3D print. But the biggest problem was to paint them. The material wont accept enamel or acrylic paint (even if it was cleaned with Aceton). It doesnt built adhesion with the plastic or it stays wet... So my solution was to paint it with Cerakote ceramik paint, which now keeps on it like hell. Important! Cerakote clear and color paint is great to work with. It is extremely expensive due to the fact, that it is a ceramic paint for guns or cars which is normaly not in use for plastic models. Airbrushing it is amazing, the paint lays on the model very thin but without letting something shine though. If you use the clear coat to go over decals, the decals wont be removed by tape... aso. ... BUT! Cerakote is such a hard surface, that regular enamel or acrylic paint wont stay on it. You could scratch overpainted model color from a Cerakote surface like using a lottery scratch ticket. So you always should go over such areas with Cerakote clear matte to fix colors and decals. So, let`s see what I have done over the weekend...BLU111/B Bombs - I painted the bomb, ignitor, hooks and washed it - Tail will followLANTIRN - Also painted and washed - aged the ball head. A change which will come is the cooling intake, and the length ofthe system. The F-14 used older LANTIRN versions, whih are longer, but the system itself is nearly the same, than the modern ones which are a bit shorter. So I need to built a mid part, which makes it longer, new air intakes which are diagonally and not only vertical. Due to the fact, that I will built the cat on the catapult, the ball head turns all optical sights inside. So this is also correct to not see any glas or optics on the head.Today I will clear paint the LANTIRN and the Bombs, so all I have done till yet is fixed. Menelaos, patricksparks, LSP_Kevin and 3 others 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A-10LOADER Posted April 25, 2018 Share Posted April 25, 2018 @ Steve, yes I bought them (resin) on eBay more than a year ago. I think this is something nobody should built scratch However, over the weekend I started to do something else than the rudders (which are finished now). So I decided to built the MK82s and the LANTIRN pod. Both are 3D printed parts, which are good in detail, but bad in working with. To get them more stable, I filled them with a complete out-hardened putty, so nothing of the thin structures can break. The surfae has been sanded so there are no rings to find from the 3D print. But the biggest problem was to paint them. The material wont accept enamel or acrylic paint (even if it was cleaned with Aceton). It doesnt built adhesion with the plastic or it stays wet... So my solution was to paint it with Cerakote ceramik paint, which now keeps on it like hell. Important! Cerakote clear and color paint is great to work with. It is extremely expensive due to the fact, that it is a ceramic paint for guns or cars which is normaly not in use for plastic models. Airbrushing it is amazing, the paint lays on the model very thin but without letting something shine though. If you use the clear coat to go over decals, the decals wont be removed by tape... aso. ... BUT! Cerakote is such a hard surface, that regular enamel or acrylic paint wont stay on it. You could scratch overpainted model color from a Cerakote surface like using a lottery scratch ticket. So you always should go over such areas with Cerakote clear matte to fix colors and decals. So, let`s see what I have done over the weekend... BLU111/B Bombs - I painted the bomb, ignitor, hooks and washed it - Tail will follow LANTIRN - Also painted and washed - aged the ball head. A change which will come is the cooling intake, and the length ofthe system. The F-14 used older LANTIRN versions, whih are longer, but the system itself is nearly the same, than the modern ones which are a bit shorter. So I need to built a mid part, which makes it longer, new air intakes which are diagonally and not only vertical. Due to the fact, that I will built the cat on the catapult, the ball head turns all optical sights inside. So this is also correct to not see any glas or optics on the head. Today I will clear paint the LANTIRN and the Bombs, so all I have done till yet is fixed. So, are the bomb lugs and nose fuzes part of the 3D printing process or did you scratchbuild them ? Everything looks really awesome so far. Steve Model_Monkey 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skydancer Posted April 27, 2018 Author Share Posted April 27, 2018 The bombs and the pod is completely 3D printed - including the fuzes and lugs. I only use one AIM54 and two Sidewinders from the original model. This is the actual status of my F-14D Bombcat: I overworked the AIM-54 a bit to get it more realistic. The decals on the rocket are completely made myself after checking many pictures to find out what is written. Cause of the size, it`s like a small extra model to built... attaching the decals can make you crazy The Mk82 / BLU111 Bombs will also get the third yellow stripe on their front and the tail needs to be painted Out2gtcha, patricksparks, Model_Monkey and 3 others 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A-10LOADER Posted April 27, 2018 Share Posted April 27, 2018 Nice work, things are progressing nicely. Steve "TOMCATS FOREVER, BABY!" Skydancer 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
air one Posted May 1, 2018 Share Posted May 1, 2018 Awesome work! Do you confirm the bombs and Lantirn pod came from Anyuta 3D on shapeways ? Or did you designed them yourself? By the way pm sent... Regards, Erwan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skydancer Posted May 1, 2018 Author Share Posted May 1, 2018 air one ... I can confirm. The 3D printed parts are from Anyuta 3D on Shapeways. The printed parts are very detailed, but they still need much work. You need to sand the surface to get it flat and you need to paint them with car paint first (because everything else does not hold on the surface / I used Cerakote gun paint, because it is very thin). The biggest problem of the 3D parts from Anyuta is, that he is so close to the original, that the bombs, rockets and LANTIRN parts are so thin in 1/18, that they can break easily. To work with them, you really need to fill them up with putty (I used a metall 2 component putty). However, the results are great. Here are the pictures I made 5 minutes ago I modified the original JSI Phoenix rocket in the tail section (engine), repainted it and attached the decals I made. After this, I aged it just a bit with a light grey wash (because the AIM54 was to expensive to get real dirty) - after all of this, I clear painted it.What the camera can`t get is, that the BLU-111 bombs are a bit rusty und dirty, from rolling over ramps etc.. The tail section of them shall look brand new and in a close, but not exactly the same light grey pained. While the bombs are matte, the tail section is a bit more glossy.The LANTIRN is still in work, the grey tube you can see, is a part cut out of a phoenix rocket, which has the same diameter than the LANTIRN pod I cutted in two. This tube (mid section) will make the pod longer, as the original LANTIRNs on the cat.Today, I want to work a bit on the nose section of the cat, attaching the front wheel and the doors of it. F`s are my favs, air one, Model_Monkey and 2 others 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A-10LOADER Posted May 4, 2018 Share Posted May 4, 2018 Very nice work so far Skydancer. Your skills are very good and I like that you pay attention to the details. This will certainly be a "one of a kind" Tomcat you can be proud of when finished. Steve "TOMCATS FOREVER, BABY!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skydancer Posted May 4, 2018 Author Share Posted May 4, 2018 Todays update I finished some pylons and some work on the GBU-12... Made new front wings for them, because the 3D printed ones don`t looked good enough. The weapon stations are also overworked, because I had a regular F-14A Jolly Rogers and so the weapon station for the phoenix and the LANTIRN was wrong. Model_Monkey, LSP_Kevin, A-10LOADER and 1 other 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzas Posted May 4, 2018 Share Posted May 4, 2018 Those weaps look bloody awesome! Gaz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skydancer Posted May 6, 2018 Author Share Posted May 6, 2018 Some work done today on the nozzles At first I tried to use "carbon" decals on the nozzle covers of the D-Cat. Well, doesn`t worked... The decals always broke, doesn`t matter if I used softener or not. So I need to paint a "carbon look" which i did with mixing black with a bit grey and silver pigments. This worked well. This week I will also show you the changes I made on the Tomcat tail to make it a D-Cat. As you can see yet, the nozzle covers are completely flaten out, because the D hasen`t had any structure on the covers - they were built out of carbon. The nozzles itself are painted black as base color. This makes the surface flat enough to work with bare metal foil... if it workes as expected.... if not, it will be painted with Gunze Steel color. Model_Monkey, A-10LOADER and LSP_Kevin 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skydancer Posted May 7, 2018 Author Share Posted May 7, 2018 ...if you spend hours and hours in research for the correct marking texts on an AIM-9 Sidewinder for creating decals... just to find out, that the text is too small to be red... A-10LOADER and Model_Monkey 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A-10LOADER Posted May 7, 2018 Share Posted May 7, 2018 Those nozzles look very familiar, they were my first choice. Then I decided to go full AB, I went with these. I wish I could have found markings for my missiles, at this scale they really need them. Things are looking good. Looking forward to more updates. Steve "TOMCATS FOREVER, BABY!" Model_Monkey 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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