Shaka HI Posted January 25, 2016 Author Share Posted January 25, 2016 No color coat, but interior primed with black Vallejo primer received in the mail just yesterday (acrylic, so I can get it shipped!). Love this primer -- more than the Badger! geedubelyer and MikeC 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmthamade Posted January 25, 2016 Share Posted January 25, 2016 I'm amazed how fast you're progressing on the build and doing such a clean job on it!! I have to ask, is the black strictly a primer or are you using it as a preshade? Don Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shaka HI Posted January 25, 2016 Author Share Posted January 25, 2016 You know I'm not sure TBH....someone here posted some pictures of what is a restored Spitfire and I thought: "Well, that looks really nice". Until I discovered it's an actual Spitfire. So I thought I do something to add some "dimension". Not exactly, "weathering" like how I see some folks here do (and I am completely awed by their execution), but I feel it needs something? When I get confused with a real Spitfire for a model, I'll definitely need to do something to make a model look more real. I added some nicks/chips/highlights to the IP with a graphite pencil...not sure if it looks OK, but whatever...I'm experimenting a little. geedubelyer 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mozart Posted January 25, 2016 Share Posted January 25, 2016 (edited) I sometimes do a dark base coat in my cockpits, usually German aircraft which have an RLM66 finish and then spray the top coat from above at a constant angle. This creates a "shadow" which gives depth to the cockpit. Max Edited January 25, 2016 by mozart Shaka HI, MikeC and alaninaustria 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phartycr0c Posted January 25, 2016 Share Posted January 25, 2016 Again another great build coming together keep it up.! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shaka HI Posted January 26, 2016 Author Share Posted January 26, 2016 (edited) I sometimes do a dark base coat in my cockpits, usually German aircraft which have an RLM66 finish and then spray the top coat from above at a constant angle. This creates a "shadow" which gives depth to the cockpit. [..Pict Link Removed..] Max I like that..I might have to "borrow" that idea! Edited January 26, 2016 by Shaka HI Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shaka HI Posted January 31, 2016 Author Share Posted January 31, 2016 Engine components primed and first color coat for the cockpit. Enjoy your weekend folks! geedubelyer 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shaka HI Posted February 1, 2016 Author Share Posted February 1, 2016 (edited) More color coats...waiting for it to dry for detail brush painting. Experimenting with the exhaust a bit.... No plans to add paint the "NMF" stuff in the interior, but looks like it's fairly visible. LHS did not have AS12, so I used what ever "Aluminum" paint I had which kinda sucks, but it's barely visible... I think I spent more time cleaning the AB after the silver compared to masking/painting this "colour". Edited February 1, 2016 by Shaka HI geedubelyer and MikeC 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shaka HI Posted February 2, 2016 Author Share Posted February 2, 2016 Major Engine components assembled/painted...this is a lot of fun, I hope I don't lose any steam...I'll need to somehow add some dept/interest to all that black! mozart and geedubelyer 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geedubelyer Posted February 3, 2016 Share Posted February 3, 2016 Neat progress Shaka. Major Engine components assembled/painted...this is a lot of fun, I hope I don't lose any steam...I'll need to somehow add some dept/interest to all that black! Black can be a challenge to bring depth to. Many modellers choose a dark grey as a base and work back up to black. Because scale can help with the illusion, dark grey can still look like black. If you were to airbrush a very dark grey over the black but spray it from the top down it would automatically create natural shading. The top of the rocker covers would be pretty much dark grey but the undercuts would remain black and accentute the shadow effect. Use a thin wash of black all over to re-instate the detail then a final subtle dry-brush of very dark grey to make the highlights "pop". Some guys even dry-brush with a light grey or white which really gives an artistic, high contrast effect. A bit of experimentation should give you a chance to see what you prefer. HTH Cheers. MikeC, Shaka HI, Jeff and 1 other 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mozart Posted February 3, 2016 Share Posted February 3, 2016 Neat progress Shaka. Black can be a challenge to bring depth to. Many modellers choose a dark grey as a base and work back up to black. Because scale can help with the illusion, dark grey can still look like black. If you were to airbrush a very dark grey over the black but spray it from the top down it would automatically create natural shading. The top of the rocker covers would be pretty much dark grey but the undercuts would remain black and accentute the shadow effect. Use a thin wash of black all over to re-instate the detail then a final subtle dry-brush of very dark grey to make the highlights "pop". Some guys even dry-brush with a light grey or white which really gives an artistic, high contrast effect. A bit of experimentation should give you a chance to see what you prefer. HTH Cheers. All very sound advice! Max Shaka HI and geedubelyer 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shaka HI Posted February 4, 2016 Author Share Posted February 4, 2016 (edited) Neat progress Shaka. Black can be a challenge to bring depth to. Many modellers choose a dark grey as a base and work back up to black. Because scale can help with the illusion, dark grey can still look like black. If you were to airbrush a very dark grey over the black but spray it from the top down it would automatically create natural shading. The top of the rocker covers would be pretty much dark grey but the undercuts would remain black and accentute the shadow effect. Use a thin wash of black all over to re-instate the detail then a final subtle dry-brush of very dark grey to make the highlights "pop". Some guys even dry-brush with a light grey or white which really gives an artistic, high contrast effect. A bit of experimentation should give you a chance to see what you prefer. HTH Cheers. Tried to mist a thin dark grey which definitely looks better (top-down) -- scale-wise. I should follow up with some black washes and dry brushing to get some detail out. It does look better, just harder to convey through photography...Thanks for the ideas (even if my execution is lacking). Edited February 4, 2016 by Shaka HI mozart, MikeC and Jeff 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mozart Posted February 4, 2016 Share Posted February 4, 2016 Getting there for sure, but you'll be surprised just how much the black wash and dry brushing changes things even more. Max Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shaka HI Posted February 5, 2016 Author Share Posted February 5, 2016 Apologies for the rather weak/frequent progress updates, but it does keep me motivated. Detailed painting with a fine brush (love this brush, not sure where I got it!) for the cockpit with Tamiya acrylics thinned with their own thinner with a drop of Liquitex Flow-Aid. I"m also experimenting with a tinted Future used as a wash, it's very subtle, but a flat coat will be required to fully see any effect -- if any. geedubelyer and Iain 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted February 5, 2016 Share Posted February 5, 2016 I use the same brush and yes I love it.....Harv Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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