FW-190D questions

[CRAZY IVAN5]

Just got the Hasegawa FW-190D -9 [st19] and since this is my first FW have a few questions regarding the antenna and some color questions. Why do some of  the antenna wires all have slack in them when the canopy is open and some don't and what is the determining factor? Also I've be seeing some profiles and decal sheets showing what looks like to me British Sky type 'S'? I apologize for these basic questions but this IS my first foray into the Fw-190s[ I'm trying to learn them]

[Paul2660]

Can’t answer first question. But the British sky type S would refer to a late war variant of RLM76. Used on many late44 and 45 aircraft. D9 blue 12 is one of more famous ones. 
 

AK interactive had a nice version of this they call it RLM76 vr 3 late war variant. Both in lacquer and acrylic. MRP also has it, I will have to look up their paint number. 
 

Paul

[CRAZY IVAN5]

I've already started it and so far the fit has been quite good , I guess I got the "good" kit of this as the earlier one had some issues that I've read about. I can guarantee there'll be more silly FW questions coming. [it's me after all]

[CRAZY IVAN5]

Ok, from what I'm reading here and there the antenna being slack or tight [when open] depends on the type of canopy being used . The 'bulged" type didn't have a rewind mechanism but the "flat" type did. So when the "bulged " type was open the wire went slack. Is this correct or an "urban myth" ?  

[thierry laurent]

1 hour ago, CRAZY IVAN5 said:

Ok, from what I'm reading here and there the antenna being slack or tight [when open] depends on the type of canopy being used . The 'bulged" type didn't have a rewind mechanism but the "flat" type did. So when the "bulged " type was open the wire went slack. Is this correct or an "urban myth" ?  

In one word: correct!

[CRAZY IVAN5]

1 hour ago, thierry laurent said:

In one word: correct!

All righty then that's settled, and I'll be using the "bulged " hood so I gotta figure out a way to put slack in the antenna wire . I usually use E-Z line for this so we'll see. Any other suggestions will be appreciated. Now ,Hasegawa put 2 holes in the wing uppers [total 4] 2 of them are over the flap wells the other 2 are above the wheel wells. I'm going to assume that these are for the visual indicators if so I'm trying to find a photo showing what they look like and color, the kit instructions are no help. I'll also will be using EagleCals #124 Black 4 JG301Wr Nr 500576. 

[CRAZY IVAN5]

I also picked up the Airframe& Miniature #3 second edition by Aliant. According to them WrNr 500576 was built by Mittledeutsche Metallwerke , Erfurt. So there's that . Any other pubs I should see about getting? #3 also covers the TA-152 so that may come in handy when I do my -152.

[Gazzas]

Thin, monofilament fishing line is great for slack lines.  2LB test is my preferred size.  If your line is too slack, you wave an incense near it, approaching slowly so that the heat shrinks the line.

[MikeMaben]

There's a pin that raises and lowers to indicate the landing gear up/down.

Slightly behind the flap hinge line (see below) there's a round hole with a

marking painted over it to indicate the flap position.

 

 

I agree with Gary, EZ line is not the best for slack antenna. 

Also , the chips and scratches sometimes seen on the rear

canopy is from the antenna wire bouncing while taxiing.  Have fun.

 

 

 

Edited February 24 by MikeMaben

[CRAZY IVAN5]

1 hour ago, MikeMaben said:

There's a pin that raises and lowers to indicate the landing gear up/down.

Slightly behind the flap hinge line (see below) there's a round hole with a

marking painted over it to indicate the flap position.

 

 

I agree with Gary, EZ line is not the best for slack antenna. 

Also , the chips and scratches sometimes seen on the rear

canopy is from the antenna wire bouncing while taxiing.  Have fun.

 

 

 

So,Mike, that hole is like a window then and the index mark is on the flap itself with the black arrow heads aligning with the index mark? Of course they didn't give me a decal for it so I'm going to have to come up with something on my own[once I see it I can't unsee it]. Good info thank you!

[Isar 30/07]

After 1 1/2 years of non modelling I "restarted" this year with 3 FW 190´s that rested for several years in the SOD to see If I can already modelling.

Beside an F-8 and an A-7 (converted from an A-8) there is also an D-11 (conversion on D-9) on my bench - all kits are the "late" Hasegawa ones (just like you have the ST 19).

 

To get more informations on the D-11, I bought this year the 2 Eagle Editions books (Jerry Crandall) on the FW 190 D´s.

Unfortunately long OOP these books are hard to find but worth every penny and full (!!!) of informations on the FW 190D´s.

Beside them I have 2 books from JaPo on the Fw 190 D, also containing a lot of useful informations, photos, drawings and profiles.

Those books I highly recommend!

If you can grab them - do it.

 

Maybe you find this link useful on late war RLM 76:

Late-War RLM 76 by Michael Ullman (clubhyper.com)

Michael Ullmann did a lot of research on RLM colours over many years and even worked with Jerry Crandall on the mentioned Eagle Editions books.

 

I agree that late war RLM 76 may look like British Sky type "S", but there are several late war RLM 76 shades.

Looking at the profile and explanations on "Black 4" of JG 301 from Jerry Crandall, the late war RLM 76 looks like it has a very light brown (creamy) hue than a green hue.

As I´m using colours from Gunze and Xtracolor, I mix colour variations myself.

So, I don´t go very much into already mixed colours from several brands, but that´s my personal preference.

 

Just a last tip:

 Hasegawa 1/32 Focke-Wulf Fw 190D-9 Tweak List | Large Scale Planes

Very useful 

 

 

Cheers, 

Reimund

 

 

 

[phasephantomphixer]

11 hours ago, CRAZY IVAN5 said:

All righty then that's settled, and I'll be using the "bulged " hood so I gotta figure out a way to put slack in the antenna wire . I usually use E-Z line for this so we'll see. Any other suggestions will be appreciated. Now ,Hasegawa put 2 holes in the wing uppers [total 4] 2 of them are over the flap wells the other 2 are above the wheel wells. I'm going to assume that these are for the visual indicators if so I'm trying to find a photo showing what they look like and color, the kit instructions are no help. I'll also will be using EagleCals #124 Black 4 JG301Wr Nr 500576. 

Been many years since I built my D-11 (before the latest Hasegawa kit) but do remember using the thinnest line I had, and to get the proper drape when slack, I put a twist in the short center wire so it would fall to the left (?) when canopy is slid back. 

[CRAZY IVAN5]

17 hours ago, phasephantomphixer said:

Been many years since I built my D-11 (before the latest Hasegawa kit) but do remember using the thinnest line I had, and to get the proper drape when slack, I put a twist in the short center wire so it would fall to the left (?) when canopy is slid back. 

I see pics with it flopping to the left and flopping to the right , as long as I can get it to flop I'll be happy. It should be interesting to say the least.

[CRAZY IVAN5]

19 hours ago, Isar 30/07 said:

After 1 1/2 years of non modelling I "restarted" this year with 3 FW 190´s that rested for several years in the SOD to see If I can already modelling.

Beside an F-8 and an A-7 (converted from an A-8) there is also an D-11 (conversion on D-9) on my bench - all kits are the "late" Hasegawa ones (just like you have the ST 19).

 

To get more informations on the D-11, I bought this year the 2 Eagle Editions books (Jerry Crandall) on the FW 190 D´s.

Unfortunately long OOP these books are hard to find but worth every penny and full (!!!) of informations on the FW 190D´s.

Beside them I have 2 books from JaPo on the Fw 190 D, also containing a lot of useful informations, photos, drawings and profiles.

Those books I highly recommend!

If you can grab them - do it.

 

Maybe you find this link useful on late war RLM 76:

Late-War RLM 76 by Michael Ullman (clubhyper.com)

Michael Ullmann did a lot of research on RLM colours over many years and even worked with Jerry Crandall on the mentioned Eagle Editions books.

 

I agree that late war RLM 76 may look like British Sky type "S", but there are several late war RLM 76 shades.

Looking at the profile and explanations on "Black 4" of JG 301 from Jerry Crandall, the late war RLM 76 looks like it has a very light brown (creamy) hue than a green hue.

As I´m using colours from Gunze and Xtracolor, I mix colour variations myself.

So, I don´t go very much into already mixed colours from several brands, but that´s my personal preference.

 

Just a last tip:

 Hasegawa 1/32 Focke-Wulf Fw 190D-9 Tweak List | Large Scale Planes

Very useful 

 

 

Cheers, 

Reimund

 

 

 

I'll try and find those books hopefully they aren't too expensive. As a new bee to Fw-190s I appreciate all of the info that you all have imparted, I need all the help I can get . Now just yesterday my son got me the 1/32 Revell FW-190F-8! Even more to learn! It looks good in the box, I wonder how much of a wreck I can make out of it. I did find the Aero series book on the -190D so that's a start. I checked out Michael Ullman's article that you listed , very informative and about the best explanation I've seen yet ,thank you kind sir! I also got the Aero series book on the FW-190A-F. I haven't received either Aero series books yet, they're enroute. 

[MikeMaben]

21 hours ago, CRAZY IVAN5 said:

So,Mike, that hole is like a window then and the index mark is on the flap itself with the black arrow heads aligning with the index mark?

Yep. The further the mark inside the circle is to the right, the further down the flaps are.

I'm not sure if the flaps lowered incrementally or just up/down.