Apologies for the basic question, but about glueing large AC parts-fuselage and wings

[Citadelgrad]

Hi all.   I am recently back in modeling and after some basics with a bunch of 1/35 armor to get my legs under me, i have a mess of LSPs on deck. I am working on a WIP of my P47 D 25, so far i have the cockpit almost finished. 
 

So on to my super basic question. For my armor builds i use mostly Tamiya extra thin.  I have some on hand, and intend to use it on the Jug.  Ive seen guys on youtube sort of get large parts in position and then “use capillary action” to glue, for example, fuselage halves together. 
 

does this give a satisfactory bond?  Also, is the glue applied externally like this visible?   Is that what most people do, tape the halved, then glue, and not the other way around?

 

thanks, sorry for the basic question.  Last time i glued up a plane, i used testors tube glue, and if you used too much, it got everywhere.  Melted fingerprints, stinky fumes.  Ive spent so much time on this one i just dont want to screw up something so basic. 

[Woody V]

Tamiya Extra Thin is a strong solvent. It bonds by melting plastic thereby "welding" two pieces together. For a long seam like a fuselage I prefer to loosely hold the halves together and apply the TET along the seam and then use tape to hold until dry. If done "just right" a small bead of the melted plastic will form along the seam.

On the down side, TET is so thin that it will go between any two surfaces, including your finger and the model so you have to be extra careful how you handle the parts. TET's aggressive capillary action can be your best friend or worse enemy. 

My advice for you would be the same as I give anyone trying something for the first time - get any "junk kit" and experiment. You have no idea the number of modelers who destroy their build by trying something for the first time on their build.

 

LATER EDIT: Any TET that winds up on the outside of the seam creates little-to-no affect and will disappear as you sand the seam. Of course, this doesn't apply to drops or spills, but whatever you do, do NOT touch it until it dries or you'll wind up with an embossed fingerprint on your model.

Edited February 18, 2021 by Archer Fine Transfers

[dmthamade]

^^^ Not much to add to the above, Tamiya Extra Thin or any liquid cement will go where it wants to go, good or bad. Like tube glue, a little goes a long way. Long seams done as described are good to go. Only thing i can add is using elastic bands to hold parts together, they apply steady pressure on the parts, help the welding process and prevent separation when the fit isn't ideal. Tape can loosen up allowing a seam to open up a bit .

 

 

[thierry laurent]

Well my experience is different. Years ago I had issues of cracking seams only glued with extra thin glue. Moreover in many cases you need to add some filler to hide fully the seam. Last, for very long seams, ultra thin glues dry too quickly. For years, I'm now using three viscosities of plastic glues. I have a thick plastic glue (purchased in DIY shops), a medium viscosity one like Revell Contacta and extra thin glues like the Tamiya ones. For fuselage and wings I often use a combination of tube glue where I need a very strong bond in a hidden place, medium viscosity for the long seams (to avoid putty use later) and thin glues for small parts or areas where the seams are close to invisible when you dry fit the parts. No more problem!

[mozart]

I'm with Thierry, not a great fan of TET at all.  To be honest my "go to" on most IM kits for larger areas is good old Revell.  I used Slater's Mek Pak on my Echelon Lightning, it's a gentle glue not unlike TET and responded very well to the plastic of the vacform Lightning.

[dashotgun]

Good old revell unless you mean the tube glue with toluene. Revell contacta is not very available on the us side of the atlantic i checked 5 usd for the glue and 50 usd shipping. You can use cyno glue but tamiya thin works for me