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Paint Mix Recipes for Painting Formation Slime Lights


Greg W

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I have a old Eduard photo etch set (designed for a F-4E) with formation light frames. It has me thinking, what colors pre-made or mixed, would simulate the yellow/green shade of the lights. 

 

I would love it if the jet builders would share their personal preferences for the color mixes (or bottled colors off the shelf), that you use in your builds. 

 

Thanks, Greg   

Edited by Greg W
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20201221_220035

 

I grabbed the only highlighter I have at home and did a quick test. I think the results over copy paper and Evergreen sheet look very good indeed. The color is ever so slightly more green than in the pictures. The photoetch frame is from an old Eduard 1:72  F-4E set. Could possibly work on decal paper too. 

 

 

Copy paper

20201221_215817

 

 

Sheet plastic

20201221_222532

 

 

Initial trials indicate a promising field of study, calling out for more research! 

 

Stellar idea Don. Thanks

Edited by GDW
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Been thinking about this topic again, does anybody out there care to share how they do the slime lights if not using decals?

 

Also, what mail order companies carry the Revell paint Thierry mentioned above and what is the product title?

 

Greg

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Hi Greg. 

 

I've seen a couple of models built using the glow in the dark type paints and they worked well.

 

On builds I've done I've used pale Citadel colours. Since the actual items look off white when powered down I went with bone shades or rotting flesh I think. 

In their current range Krieg Khaki, Screaming skull or Wraithbone  could all be contenders. The beauty of the Citadel paints is the large range of colours and the ease with which they are mixed. Virtually any shade is possible. If the above mentioned shades are too dark simply add white. Also, there are a large range of shaded washes available to create the realistic multi tonal look of the real deals. 

Citadel also offer a "glow" paint in their technical range called Tesseract Glow which they suggect "Apply over light colours for an eye-catching glowing appearance"

I'm not sure whether it's possible to mix that with the standard paints though or whether it could look unrealistically bright.

 

HTH

 

Guy

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On 10/25/2023 at 2:14 AM, geedubelyer said:

Hi Greg. 

 

I've seen a couple of models built using the glow in the dark type paints and they worked well.

 

On builds I've done I've used pale Citadel colours. Since the actual items look off white when powered down I went with bone shades or rotting flesh I think. 

In their current range Krieg Khaki, Screaming skull or Wraithbone  could all be contenders. The beauty of the Citadel paints is the large range of colours and the ease with which they are mixed. Virtually any shade is possible. If the above mentioned shades are too dark simply add white. Also, there are a large range of shaded washes available to create the realistic multi tonal look of the real deals. 

Citadel also offer a "glow" paint in their technical range called Tesseract Glow which they suggect "Apply over light colours for an eye-catching glowing appearance"

I'm not sure whether it's possible to mix that with the standard paints though or whether it could look unrealistically bright.

 

HTH

 

Guy

 

Ok, very good!

 

In addition to the photoetch frames pictured above, one of my models has wingtips with a highly irregular shape, that I don't think a decal will conform to, so painting them on is the way to go. 

 

Thank you for listing your recommended colors Guy and that Tesseract Glow seems like a product that would be real interesting to experiment with. 

 

Much appreciated.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Greg,

 

An alternative to paint is to use phosphorescent self adhesive tape.

 

A10C_popup_405.png

 

The one I used above were sourced from Magic scale modeling but I guess other brands are available.

They are uncut and need to be cut to size. More work but more flexible. I cut mine with the silouhette  which was very easy. 

 

It's widely available in rolls on amazon too, but I guess the trick is to find one which is very thin. 

 

It is a gimmick, but I reckon it's fun to take the model in light and then bring it in the dark room and see the slime lights ON :)

 

 

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They are pale yellow. I can't really see the difference between these unlighted and the usual decals we use for these. When I have to paint them, I usually mix radome tan with a bit of white. 

 

Here's the phosphorescent strips when "unlighted"

A10C_popup_285.png

 

A10C_popup_281.png

 

And in total darkness after being energized

A10C_popup_282.png

 

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On 11/7/2023 at 3:45 AM, red Dog said:

Greg,

 

An alternative to paint is to use phosphorescent self adhesive tape.

 

A10C_popup_405.png

 

The one I used above were sourced from Magic scale modeling but I guess other brands are available.

They are uncut and need to be cut to size. More work but more flexible. I cut mine with the silouhette  which was very easy. 

 

It's widely available in rolls on amazon too, but I guess the trick is to find one which is very thin. 

 

It is a gimmick, but I reckon it's fun to take the model in light and then bring it in the dark room and see the slime lights ON :)

 

 

 

How cool is that? You have used it to great effect, well done!

 

Thank you 

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On 11/8/2023 at 3:16 AM, red Dog said:

"When I have to paint them, I usually mix radome tan with a bit of white."

 

Thank you, this is the kind of thing I was curious about and why I started the thread. I think it would be valuable for members who build jets to chime in and share what they do when painting the lights, for those that are using photo etch or vinyl frames. 

 

However, it is also interesting to see the various different ways folks are making them too! 

 

Please, keep it coming!

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