Iain Posted May 18, 2020 Author Share Posted May 18, 2020 39 minutes ago, Derek B said: What adhesive is required to assemble models such as these? H Derek, ABS is used on a lot of old Japanese motorcycle fairings - so I have a little experience of working with this material already - albeit in injected, rather than printed form. So - initial answer: ABS Plumbers Cement - cheap as chips and available from all good DIY emporiums. This is quite thick (ABS disolved in Acetone I believe) - so probably for larger joints. EMA Plastic Weld - Metheline Chloide/Dichloromethane I'm sure other solvents will work too - and I'll give some definitive answers regarding bonding the 3D Printed parts as my build progresses. I'm not anticipating any real issues... For priming the surfaces I'll use Halfords Plastic Primer (grey) spray can - slightly 'hotter' than their standard grey primer, but designed for use on things like ABS bumpers - so, in theory, a better 'key' with the substrate. Iain Stevepd and Derek B 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chek Posted May 18, 2020 Share Posted May 18, 2020 4 hours ago, Iain said: OK - so subject aside (I realise the Andover isn't on most people's radar) - the question is, how many of you would have a go at a 3D Printed project like this, if it was a subject that took your fancy? Does the review encourage you, or put you off? Iain Neutral, at present. But wouldn't the nature of the production enable feedback to modify the parts as an ongoing process? The nose shape for instance. Could that be modified for future prints to the right shape, rather than having a dozen people trying to correct the parts as supplied? Otherwise it seems that once printed the die is cast as finally and as unchangeably as with any IM kit. Stevepd 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wunwinglow Posted May 18, 2020 Share Posted May 18, 2020 The cement will fill any gaps in the joint, but jeez, is it grabby. The moment things stop sliding together, BANG. The EMA stuff is better flooded into an assembly, but it won't gap fill any. Anthony in NZ and Derek B 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wunwinglow Posted May 18, 2020 Share Posted May 18, 2020 4 hours ago, Chek said: .... Could that be modified for future prints to the right shape, rather than having a dozen people trying to correct the parts as supplied?... Yes. Derek B 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain Posted May 18, 2020 Author Share Posted May 18, 2020 Yes - if that's the print model being used... I get the impression that One Man Model will print a batch and then move on to his next project - although he has corrected the earlier NAMC YS-11 kits. Tim - I wasn't suggesting using the cement as a filler! Have learned the hard way with motorcycle fairings! Iain Anthony in NZ, wunwinglow and Derek B 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dandiego Posted May 18, 2020 Share Posted May 18, 2020 13 hours ago, Iain said: OK - so subject aside (I realise the Andover isn't on most people's radar) - the question is, how many of you would have a go at a 3D Printed project like this, if it was a subject that took your fancy? Does the review encourage you, or put you off? Iain Your review encourages me. 3D printing opens up the hobby to subjects that will never be realized by the mainstream manufacturers. I would rather do a little extra surface prep than spent months trying to scratchbuild something. Having worked with some of my own 3D parts, there is no voodoo involved, just a slightly different skill set. I would design my own full kits if I had clue one on how to do CAD. Dan Anthony in NZ, Derek B and Iain 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain Posted May 19, 2020 Author Share Posted May 19, 2020 9 hours ago, Dandiego said: I would rather do a little extra surface prep than spent months trying to scratchbuild something. Exactly my thoughts too Dan! Iain Derek B 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wunwinglow Posted May 20, 2020 Share Posted May 20, 2020 CAD? Practise. You lot are halfway there already as you understand shapes in 3d. Try TinkerCAD, or if you are feeling up for it, Fusion360, both are free. Just do the first tutorial. Please! Just give it a go!! Dandiego, Derek B and Iain 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Royboy Posted May 21, 2020 Share Posted May 21, 2020 On 5/18/2020 at 8:36 PM, wunwinglow said: The EMA stuff is better flooded into an assembly, but it won't gap fill any. Does it stick PU resin Tim? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek B Posted May 21, 2020 Share Posted May 21, 2020 (edited) 11 hours ago, wunwinglow said: CAD? Practise. You lot are halfway there already as you understand shapes in 3d. Try TinkerCAD, or if you are feeling up for it, Fusion360, both are free. Just do the first tutorial. Please! Just give it a go!! I am tempted , but somewhat apprehensive, as I have little in the way of the required IT skills and knowledge (same for designing and printing my own decals - it is knowing what drawing software skills I have to learn and develop rather than the actual printing in both cases, although I need to learn all about that as well!...then there are the costs?). Thanks Derek Edited May 21, 2020 by Derek B Anthony in NZ 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wunwinglow Posted May 22, 2020 Share Posted May 22, 2020 (edited) On 5/21/2020 at 7:54 AM, Royboy said: Does it stick PU resin Tim? No. Its a solvent based cement, so it bonds by melting a layer of both parts so they blend together, then the solvent evaporates leaving solid material. It acts as a lubricant as you slide the parts together, but the MOMENT it stops moving, it grabs! And that's it, bonded!! You can't dissolve cured PU, the only way to bond it is with a grabby physical glue like epoxy or cyanates. It doesn't even bond to itself if you add mixed pu resin!! There are some really HOT glues in industry, which will glue even materials like nylon and polypropylene, but they are very expensive. I did have some for bonding motorcycle fairings, but I can't find it!! If I can find the brand name I will get back to you. When I am back in the workshop (furloughed at the moment) I will look out the stuff we have at work. It stinks to High Heaven, mind! Edited May 22, 2020 by wunwinglow Royboy 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wunwinglow Posted May 22, 2020 Share Posted May 22, 2020 On 5/21/2020 at 9:14 AM, Derek B said: I am tempted , but somewhat apprehensive, as I have little in the way of the required IT skills and knowledge (same for designing and printing my own decals - it is knowing what drawing software skills I have to learn and develop rather than the actual printing in both cases, although I need to learn all about that as well!...then there are the costs?). Thanks Derek www.tinkerCAD.com. Now. No excuses!!! Derek B 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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