New MRP bottles?

[ade rowlands]

A word of warning on adding a BB to the new plastic bottle. I did this and when going to pour the paint out in to my air brush the BB would always find its way to the bottle top and foul the dropper hole blocking it totally. Kept the BB in the bottle and just unscrew the top and use a dropper as I did before now to transfer paint to the airbrush. 

[Wegener]

You can also use marine grade stainless steel (or indeed any other non-rusting metal) nuts as agitators - not being a ball, they are less prone to acting like a ball valve and blocking the nozzle.

[nichenson]

1 hour ago, Jennings Heilig said:

I don't find the ball bearing to do very much.  Half the time if the paint has been sitting for a while, the bearing is stuck in the goo at the bottom, and you have to shake the hell out of it to even get the ball loose to start with, which accomplishes the same thing the ball does.  MRP isn't especially gooey in the first place.  Just shake it until you can see liquid at the bottom when you invert the bottle and you're good.

 

Yep.  I only put bearings in acrylic paints that I can't easily stir and have narrow bottles like Vallejo and Ammo.  I have found that with most lacquer or AE paints it is easy to get them mixed by rolling them in your hands like a medicine vial and it keeps from getting so many air bubbles as well.

[ade rowlands]

I’m simple. I just like the noise. 

[nichenson]

26 minutes ago, ade rowlands said:

I’m simple. I just like the noise. 

 

I have heard horror stories with alclad and zero paint bottles and bearings.  That is another reason I won't put them in glass especially since I just put in new floors and painted my hobby room. 

[Bstarr3]

My problem with the tops on the new bottles is that I've never gotten them to squeeze out a drop appropriately. The bottle itself is too hard to really squeeze effectively, but the paint doesn't drip out of the dropper top without some help. Mostly it just run down along the side and gets on my fingers. 

I've just gone back to unscrewing the lid and using a dropper like I do for the glass bottles. Mission Models still has the best bottles, as far as I'm concerned. 

[Shoggz]

Being (at least currently) an exclusively hairy stick user, all this discussion is going over my head!

[ringleheim]

6 hours ago, Bstarr3 said:

My problem with the tops on the new bottles is that I've never gotten them to squeeze out a drop appropriately. The bottle itself is too hard to really squeeze effectively, but the paint doesn't drip out of the dropper top without some help. Mostly it just run down along the side and gets on my fingers. 

I've just gone back to unscrewing the lid and using a dropper like I do for the glass bottles. Mission Models still has the best bottles, as far as I'm concerned. 

Honestly, I think I like the old fashioned Tamiya or Mr. Color approach.  The bottles are nice and wide and won't tip over easily, solid glass construction, the lids don't lock on if you don't over-tighten, and it's easy to get a Tamiya paint stirrer in there and give it a great stir in a short period of time, which is much more effective than shaking anyway!  Doesn't put tiny micro bubbles in your paint, either.

 

And then I either drip out the paint with a stirrer in the bottle and let capillary action do the trick, or use glass eye droppers and count drops that way.

 

In truth, all of these different bottle designs work in their own ways.  I have probably 10 brands of paint sitting around, and they all work.