Jump to content
BloorwestSiR

AFV Club ROCAF F-16B Block 20

Recommended Posts

...looks like tough work on that intake...

I thought so too at first, but I decided to try a technique I read about on here. I put a coat of Mr. Surfacer 500 down and once it was dry, I went over it with a Q-tip dipped in Tamiya lacquer thinner. By rubbing it down with the Q-tip, it removes most of the Mr. Surfacer and minimises the amount of sanding needed. The small bit of sanding I did with some thin sanding sticks. I'll try to get some pics up shortly.

 

As for the ejection seats, I ended up ordering them from Hannents as their shipping was cheaper. Still trying to figure that one out. So they're on the way as we speak.

 

Carl

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nice project Carl. I found that kit at a very reasonable cost. The resin bits in it are nice. Well, I'll follow along and see how you tackle some of the issues I have heard about this kit.

 

Mike

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Carl

Nice progress on the Viper and taking care of those injector pin marks. The parts breakdown for the wheel wells are the Academy parts, injector pin marks and all!

Keep 'em coming

Peter

Edited by Peterpools

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hello Carl, great progress so far. Question, the Tamiya Lacquer thinner you use to wipe away the Mr Surfacer, does it attack/melt the plastic in any way? I can thing of a few areas where this would come in handy but fear harming the plastic.

 

Don

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hello Carl, great progress so far. Question, the Tamiya Lacquer thinner you use to wipe away the Mr Surfacer, does it attack/melt the plastic in any way? I can thing of a few areas where this would come in handy but fear harming the plastic.

 

Don

 

I'm not Carl, and I don't use Tamiya's lacquer thinner, but I'm led to believe it's very similar to Gunze's Mr Color Thinner, in which case it's very unlikely to harm the plastic.

 

Kev

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

As Kev replied, the Tamiya Lacquer thinner will not harm the plastic in any way. It seems to be a relatively "cool" lacquer thinner and so far hasn't had any effect on the plastic. I don't have the Mr. Colour thinner at the moment but do have some ordered so I'll see how they compare.

 

Good news is the AM resin seats arrived today so hopefully I can start making some more progress on the build.

 

Carl

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well, I'm back at making some progress on the kit. I managed to get my new work bench set up. The CMK ejection seats arrived and I started with those:

 

321.jpg

 

These are quite a bit nicer than the kit ones. There was just a small pour block on the bottom to remove and a bit of flash (or what I thought was flash).

 

323.jpg

 

I used a razor saw over a container of water and kept both wet so as to reduce any resin dust from the sawing process. Likewise, all the sanding was done wet using sanding sticks.

 

Here are the seats with a coat of paint waiting for the PE details.

 

345.jpg

 

The instructions don't really give too many colour details for the seats so I used the Tamiya instructions as a reference.

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've always had issues with keeping my hands steady when I brush paint. As a result, I prefer to mask and airbrush as much as possible. This has been a bit easier with Aizu making several very thin widths of kabuki tape. Here's the tub masked off ready for some paint:

 

343.jpg

 

That's the Aizu tape in the background. I used 0.4, 1.0, and 2.5 mm widths in masking the panels off.

 

And after a cort of X-18 semi-gloss black. I also picked out some of the dials and buttons with gloss white. I'm happy with the way it turned out:

 

344.jpg

 

Now, the gory stuff. The IP and front side panels were too small to mask so I had no choice but to hand paint them. The results were what I expected even after a couple of tries:

 

346.jpg

 

So after some thought, I've gone ahead and ordered the Eduard PE set to do these panels. I'll leave the side panels in place.

 

Hopefully they'll be here shortly and I can get back to work on this. In the meantime, i've been working on another build and I'll post that WiP shortly.

 

Carl

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Very nice work mate! Some good ideas here too about using thin tape to mask panels for airbrushing, and also using water to keep resin parts wet while sawing them. I'll be stealing those two for sure!

 

Kev

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Very work on the ejection seats and side consoles. I tend to do a bit of dry brushing before picking out the dials and switches and paint them with a toothpick instead of a brush - a a bit more control on the amount of paint and a bit easier to control

Keep 'em coming

peter

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Very nice work mate! Some good ideas here too about using thin tape to mask panels for airbrushing, and also using water to keep resin parts wet while sawing them. I'll be stealing those two for sure!

 

Kev

 The Aizu tape is really handy. Since it's so thin, it really can follow a compound curve easily and smoothly. I've even used it to mask off the stripes on ejection seat pull handles. 

 

As for wet sawing resin, i figured that if it works for ceramic tiles, it should work for resin. IBetween that and wet sanding when needed, it definitely has all but eliminated any resin dust getting on my workspace and more imprtantly into my lungs.

 

Nice, love the IP painting. I have the same theory on brush painting...................as Im not super steady in a line by hand either.

 

Looking forward to more!

 

I had a friend (who's now a professional illustrator/animator) watching me paint once who couldn't understand how I enjoyed the hobby since my hand twitched so much. Since then it's gotten worse thanks to injuries I've sustained over the years. I can't hold anything for more than 10 minutes before my hand cramps up on top of the shaking. Oh well, I guess I'm a glutton for punishment.

 

Very work on the ejection seats and side consoles. I tend to do a bit of dry brushing before picking out the dials and switches and paint them with a toothpick instead of a brush - a a bit more control on the amount of paint and a bit easier to control

Keep 'em coming

peter

 

Thanks for the tip on using a toothpick Peter. I'll have to give that a try. I have noticed one small issue on my ejection seats though. After going through your Sufa build again, i noticed that the two vertical protrusions on either side of the seat cushion should be solid and not cut out like I have them. Oh well, too late now. 

 

BTW, did you figure out a solution for the burner can? I want to see ho you go about painting it :)

 

Carl

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Carl, your doing great. I have the same kit although its not true 100% F-16B OOB but it's still a nice kit and the resin bits look very good.

 

Btw, about your wet sanding/cutting I do that a lot. Especially, wet sanding. Although, my sanding sticks get worn out much faster due to wet, but I think it's still worth it because I can do a lot of sanding even inside the house without upsetting family members with dusk and all.

 

Well, you keep up the food work.

 

Mike

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

×