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Second Attempt at HKM B-17G With Some Minor Improvements.

Silver Dollar

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Thanks, Ferry.  That's what I should have called to model.  Beast #2.  I now know which bomb group I'll be modeling.  Today, I found out that the 96th Air Base Wing which I belonged to from Sept 92 to Nov. 94 was directly linked to the 96th BG with the sure block C.  The aircraft will be a fictitious plane from the 96th Bomb Group.  It will be foiled as the other one but I'll be a lot more careful since I know where the trouble spots are.  It will have 2 red stripes on the tail and two on the right wing.  


This should be a great scheme... I must take my hat off to you for all the foiling!


Don't forget that the 96th not only had the red stripes on the tail and above the right wing, but below the left wing also. As the 'Square C' was situated just inboard of the outer wing panel above the right wing, this would have remained in place as the red stripes were inboard of this - if memory serves me correctly the inner stripe was level with the landing lights.



(Used for illustrative purposes only)


Each squadron within the 96th had its own coloured nose band too - the Fort above has a dark blue one signifying it was from the 339th BS within the 96th BG.


I was at Snetterton last year - the runways now form part of an extensive motor racing circuit and there is also a lot of the old technical site remaining. It's an interesting place.



Edited by tomprobert
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@Ferry.  I agree.  That's my favorite of the three as well.  Wait until you see Mighty Molar.  That's pretty good also but not as period as that one pic.  


@Tom.  Oh yeah, that's the one!  The dark blue nose is what I chose.  (Hey, I made a poem.)  All I have to do is change the letter and hope nobody knows which other A/C it really was.  

 Thanks for the info on the markings and stripes.  That's very important to me.  The first B-17 kit Silver Dollar is primarily all silver with no other colors added.  I did that one because I knew the ball turret gunner.  Even though it means a great deal to me, it's still kind of boring.  I especially love the NMF with a lot of color.  I originally wanted to do one from the 381st BG but I have no connection to that group like I have with the 96th.

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@Tom.  This is one of the birds of the 381st which just happens to be Yankee Lady.  I'm definitely looking at some weathering although just enough to make the interior look used. but not abused.  I'm going to do some experimenting with the foil to see what it would look like with the shiny side of the foil showing.  It may be too bright, but when the sun hits it, that would be glorious.  I'll also be recreating the nose art.  


@Jack.  Thanks Jack.  I'm actually going to do both at the same time.  Ain't no B-17 gonna scare me.  I'll definitely post what I'm doing even if I have no pictures to show.  


@Thud.  I use regular artist's acrylic paint that comes in the tubes.  It goes on well and cleans up with water as the solvent.  It stays somewhat flexible which means it will show less cracking and flaking.  If you want a cracked or flaking finish, then you can even use enamel model paints.  Another thing I do is I sand the leather with 320 grit paper right down to the suede.  The paint soaks in so it attaches really well.  I usually cover an area with 2 or 3 thin coats of paint about the consistency like you'd use to brush paint a model.  

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I had a rare opportunity today.  They took the grandkids out to a movie so I was able to break into the new kit and figure some stuff out.  I know some of you have already gone past these steps so I hope you can still go back and make corrections. If you annoy make the corrections, it's not much of a problem because you still can correct the problems but with a little more effort.  These tips will help those who are just starting the kit to get an easier time with some of the frustration I had.  You'll also get superior joints with no tension which can cause an incomplete joint or worse, one that pops open after your glue has its initial set and you let go of the joint. Here's what I found.  


1.  Fit the nose, tail and the fuselage halves together first and then to each other.  tape the parts together and check how your seams go together.  Mine looked like this.


Now that truly looks like it fits fairly well which it does by most standards but here is what your glue sees.


I can't get that joint any tighter and although it doesn't seem that bad, I'll have to use filler or else I run the risk of a poor incomplete joint that will show under foil.  It really does make a difference if you hate filler which I do.  


This is what it will look like after the nose halves are cemented and you'll see this through the plexi nose cone.  This is too difficult to fill.



Here's how the fuselage goes together.  Not bad from this distance.


Up close and personal.  I can't force this closed at all.  It needs fitting.



Finally the nose to fuselage joint.  On the whole, it's not too bad but I'm going to have trouble making this invisible under the foil.  




I'll stop here because the kids just came back and I've got to get my sharp stuff out of the way.  There'll be more in a day or two showing the easy fitting and corrections and how well the joints close with no filler except your glue.  Your joints will come out like weldsj and it's really easy.   

Edited by Silver Dollar
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Ive been working on a PCM Macchi 202 that has similiar gap problems; to fill them I've been using a mixture of talcum powder and thin superglue.  Read about this somewhere, always wanted to try it.


For me, its turned out well. It hardens quickly to the consistancy of styrene (but no harder, which gel superglue tends to do), and it polishes out/engraves like plastic.


If you have a test model kit lying around, give it a try, you may find its the perfect solution for this.



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  Silver Dollar admitted to me recently that he was "crazy", but I need everyone's help to find an  

 appropriate facility for his "treatment", as "BETTY FORD" has no "Plastic Addict" treatment



  As concerned "Plastic Addicts" we need to make the public aware of our plight,  

 and to receive the funding appropriate to battle this underlying cause of 




Silver Dollar and all

Jack :frantic:  :frantic:  :punk:  :punk:

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It'll have a large guitar in front of a NYC skyline.  The way I feel about what's going on in NYC, I'll probably pass on that. ... I painted these designs on some A2 jackets.


I wonder what happened in NYC?  I left it over a decade ago to move to a bedroom community.  I also painted (denim) jackets in high school though.  Wonderful work especially on the girls.


I've been using a mixture of talcum powder and thin superglue.  Read about this somewhere, always wanted to try it.


There are several techniques to control sanding.  One is to use cellophane tape on the 'good' side of the joint.  Sprinkle powder into it, then the thin cyano-acrylate glue.  The glue is soaked by the talcum powder and the tape's adhesive side ensures that the glue is level minimizing sanding.  For gloss coats, I used the glue first to create a thin layer.  Let it dry one hour, and then put the powder, followed by glue, to fill the gap.  After removing the tape, the thin shell of CA glue is glossy.



Edited by sharkmotuh
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