CA Glue As A Gap Filler

[Showtime 100]

Does anyone here use CA glue as a gap filler?

 

 

Since returning to modeling that's all I've used.

 

I bought Tamiya white putty being that's what I used to use as a gap filler but haven't even opened the box yet.

 

 

I'm interested to know what the modern modeler uses these days.

 

Thanks.

[LSP_Kevin]

I do it occasionally, but will usually mix it with talcum powder first. This makes the CA cure less hard, closer to that of the plastic itself, which means there's no rush to deal with it before it gets too hard. You can control the hardness by varying the amount of talc you add. It does slow the drying time a bit, but it's still much quicker than traditional fillers.

 

Kev

[BradG]

I've found that the dedicated hobby fillers not only shrink, but are too damn expensive. I use only 3 types of filler; superglue, scrap plastic glued with superglue or two part auto body filler in extreme cases.

[csavaglio]

I agree with Kevin. Normally I use Bondo glazing putty, which is similar to regular model filler, but you get 3 or 4 times as much for the same price. Its not the polyester filler you have to mix hardener in.

 

For stubborn seams, injector pin marks, etc, I use CA mixed with talcum powder. I usually hit it with accelerator and with the talc, it can be sanded whenever, even days later. Straight CA has to be sanded quickly or it becomes rock hard.

 

C

Edited September 14, 2013 by csavaglio

[radial]

CA mixed with micro balloons to the consistency of white paste. There is no perfect filler. Always requires multiple applications of Mr. Surfacer 500 and sanding.

[Sparzanza]

I've never even tried it.. assuming CA Glue is the equivalent of wood glue. In my experience it doesn't dry hard at all? I don't know. I've tried using it to keep canopies in place but it's pretty rubbish at that as well. I guess I'll stick with Tamiya white putty.

[petrov27]

CA = superglue. Dries really hard if let to cure a while - too hard actually. If not let to cure too long it sands out easy and smooth. I use gallons of the stuff - usually wear a good coating on my hands half the week lol.

 

I really like it for assembly of kits and filling small gaps. I had not tried cutting it with talc but just purchased some and am going to try that on the next area where I need to fill.

 

I still do use Tamiya white putty a bit though - i slop that into gaps then clean most of it off with nail polish remover on a q-tip - good for gaps in intakes for instance - works nice and sands easy though shrinks some.

[dennismcc]

I use CA exclusively as an adhesive and filler, if the gap is wide I will fill it with CA and some scrap plastic sheet, for clear parts I dip them in Klear and then attach them with CA and they do not fog. The only time that I have had to resort to something else was with a resin kit that had millions of small air bubbles in the wing, larger bubbles respond to the CA and plastic rod treatment but not lots of tiny ones, for this I used Mr Surfacer 1200.

 

Cheers

 

Den

[csavaglio]

If you thicken the CA up with talc, there's no need to add anything. It becomes very high build.

[Bryan]

I don't use traditional "putty" at all anymore. Don't even have it on the bench.

 

For small gaps or imperfections I use CA and micro-ballons, mixed to a consistency about like thick paint. It hardens quickly, doesn't shrink, and strengthens joints.

 

For larger gaps I use two part epoxy, smoothed with a cotton swap dipped in alcohol.

[Guest Peterpools]

For gap filling I use thick CCA (Gorilla Glue) if the gap needs is wide and needs to not only be filled but glued as well. For noraml gap and seams: Bondo all the way