dodgem37 Posted August 30, 2012 Author Share Posted August 30, 2012 Thank you for such a wonderful compliment, Wolf. Sincerely, Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maarten boersma Posted August 30, 2012 Share Posted August 30, 2012 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dodgem37 Posted August 30, 2012 Author Share Posted August 30, 2012 That puts a smile on my face. Thank you, Maarten. I love what you're doing with that Swallow. And your He162s! You do such beautiful and creative work. Sincerely, Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Juggernut Posted August 30, 2012 Share Posted August 30, 2012 Excellent details there Mark. I couldn't see stuff that small, let alone assemble it. Those rudder cable connections looks fantastic! I hope you're going to put this on a mirror when it's done so all that detail won't be hidden from view (without picking up the aircraft and turning it over). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dodgem37 Posted August 30, 2012 Author Share Posted August 30, 2012 Thank you, Tim. Yes it will go on a mirror, but not directlly. It's hard to see the wheel well details when the model is directly on a mirror without bending so far over, at least for me. I'm 6'-4". That's a lot of bending over to see the bottom when the model is set on a table or in my display case. I will be building a clear acrylic pedestal base to set the model onto which will set the model up from the mirror a little over 3 inches. The mirror is a 10inch x 10inch mirror plate. The base will be 1/4inch x 10inch x 10inch clear acrylic. The legs will be 3/4inch diameter x 3inches tall clear rod painted gloss black with a 1/16 diameter brass pin insert in one end. The other end will have a small adhesive backed nylon dot on it which will keep the acrylic legs from sliding around on the mirror. The clear acrylic base will be drilled to accept the pin. Then an acrylic cap will be cut from the rod and the top corners sanded round. They too will be painted black, and drilled to accept the pin. This will be placed over the pin to hide the pin. I probably should have bought opaque gloss black acrylic rod to begin with, but the project started out as something else and evolve into black. Sincerely, Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Peterpools Posted August 30, 2012 Share Posted August 30, 2012 Mark Fantastic set up for the display. Can't wait to see it with the "Star" taking center stage. Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tucohoward Posted September 1, 2012 Share Posted September 1, 2012 Mark, that is really outstanding work. As a 109 guy I love the detail you have put into this and your other builds as well. Yes, I had to read through all of them. Very enjoyable. I also liked your armor. It reminds me of Tony Greenland's work. Thanks for sharing your work, Jay Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dodgem37 Posted September 1, 2012 Author Share Posted September 1, 2012 Thank you for stopping by my builds, Jay. Goodness, my armor reminding you of Tony Greenlands' work. High praise indeed! Thank you ever so much. Sincerely, Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dodgem37 Posted September 2, 2012 Author Share Posted September 2, 2012 (edited) I've been struggling with the IP this week. Parts breakdown. 6 large openings are 2mm in diameter. Top right, which would be the clock, is 1.5mm. Remaining three are 1.4mm. I used the UMM Punch and Die Set. White discs: Four left 2mm discs are .010 thick, next two are .005. Top 1.5mm disk is also .010. The three left discs of the 1.4mm discs are .010 thick. Remaining two are .005. Clear is .005. I used Airscale Generic Luftwaffe IP decals, which I punched out using the Waldren Punch and Die set. Punch #4 for the larger, #2 for the smaller. I used a Waldren Set because I was able to register the decal within the punch opening, something that is less than easy to do with the UMM Set. With the UMM Set you have to register the image by turning the base upside down. A routine that is not as stable as registering with the Walden Set. So, the openings are drilled and filed based on the UMM Set and the image is punched out using the Waldern Set. Not a match made in heaven. Maybe next time. But at least it's done. Thanks for stopping by. Sincerely, Mark Edited September 2, 2012 by dodgem37 Greg W, sandokan, KiwiZac and 2 others 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Peterpools Posted September 2, 2012 Share Posted September 2, 2012 Mark Incredible work on the IP. I sure wish I could struggle like that. :thumbsup: Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Budman Posted September 2, 2012 Share Posted September 2, 2012 Truely beautiful for struggling!! Fantastic work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted September 2, 2012 Share Posted September 2, 2012 That's a fantastic IP mark! Looks utterly realistic. Kev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dodgem37 Posted September 3, 2012 Author Share Posted September 3, 2012 Thank you ever so much, Peter, Bud, Kevin. I appreciate your good words. Sincerely, Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maarten boersma Posted September 3, 2012 Share Posted September 3, 2012 Top !!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dodgem37 Posted September 3, 2012 Author Share Posted September 3, 2012 Thank you, Maarten! You are very generous. Sincerely, Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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