LSP_Kevin Posted January 22, 2012 Share Posted January 22, 2012 Hi fellas, I started this one immediately after finishing the ProModeler D-11, with the aim of completing it before I went back to work for the year (which gave me about 4 days at the time). Although I managed to completely assemble the model in 24 hours, and basically paint it in another 24 hours or so, it took me a long time to deal with the kit decals (by which time I was already back at work). So, I've only just finished it today. It's also the first model I've painted with my H&S Evolution airbrush, and I'm still on a learning curve with that one. Anyway, enough yap - on with the pics! The kit itself is awesome, a perfect combination of detail, accuracy, finesse and ease of construction. Much more detailed and accurate than the old Otaki one I built last year, but much easier to build than the Dragon one. As always, thanks for looking! Kev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dodgem37 Posted January 22, 2012 Share Posted January 22, 2012 That is a one nice build, Kev. Lovely finish. Sincerely, Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattlow Posted January 22, 2012 Share Posted January 22, 2012 Looks really very nice Kev. Nice restrained mottling and I like the sheen of the finish. Not bad for 48hrs work! Matt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kagemusha Posted January 22, 2012 Share Posted January 22, 2012 Very nice - love the Jabo - great photography too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loic Posted January 22, 2012 Share Posted January 22, 2012 Looking great Kev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_K2 Posted January 22, 2012 Share Posted January 22, 2012 Looks great Kev. I have the same kit (bought at a show for a real deal), but never have started it yet. I also have the 1:32 Hasegawa kit that's real nice as well. Hope either of mine turn out this nice when the time comes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Ron Posted January 22, 2012 Share Posted January 22, 2012 That's nice. It's got a nice sheen to it. Ron Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martinnfb Posted January 24, 2012 Share Posted January 24, 2012 Kev, Very prettty, what did you use for the clear coat? Looks so flawless, like a glass. M. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted January 24, 2012 Author Share Posted January 24, 2012 Thanks for the kind words guys. Much appreciated! Kev, Very prettty, what did you use for the clear coat? Looks so flawless, like a glass. M. Well Martin, let me tell you! I had planned from the outset to use the kit decals, and knowing from experience what Tamiya's decals are generally like (thick, stiff and a resistant to decal softener), I knew I had some work to do. So, I changed my usual process slightly to try to get the best out of them. Firstly, I put on a sludge wash before my usual gloss coat, just in case I couldn't get the thick decals to settle into the panel lines. This really helped in the end, especially where a panel line ran under any clear carrier film. It also gave a nice, grungy patina to the paint (Gunze semi-gloss acrylics). So, after dealing with the wash, I put down a slightly heavier-than-normal gloss coat (Tamiya X-22 Gloss Clear) in preparation for the decals. The secret to getting Tamiya decals to behave is to soak them in hot water; not boiling, but well above warm. This softens them beautifully, and for a few seconds they actually behave like good-quality aftermarket decals. I never used to use a setting solution, but having recently started, I'm now a convert, and I think it really helps with Tamiya's decals. I laid the decals down a handful at a time, getting the decal solvent on to them as quickly as possible. It's one of the reasons that the decalling phase took longer than the construction and painting phases put together! Most of the decals required many solvent applications, including slicing through some select panel lines where required. After that, I laid down two really heavy gloss coats, in an attempt to hide the thick carrier film. And this is where things went a bit wrong. The combination of poor lighting, a new airbrush and clear paint contrived to deliver a way too heavy first coat, with drips, runs and pools forming everywhere - all without me noticing until it was too late. I spent quite a bit of time with a Windex-soaked cotton bud, and ultimately, some sanding and polishing sticks. Thankfully, a second gloss coat really helped hide most of the worst of it, though up close you can still see some. You'll also notice from the last photo in the sequence that the carrier film is still noticeable, so my efforts were not completely successful. But at this point the model just about glowed in the dark, so a couple of light coats of my favourite flat coat (the long-OOP Aeromaster Warbirds Acrylic Flat Clear - the bottle is now sadly empty) brings us to the finish. Hmm, I think I'm beginning to understand why people rarely ask me questions about my models. Kev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martinnfb Posted January 26, 2012 Share Posted January 26, 2012 Thanks for explanation. The result is stunning, One would never say Thanks again, Martin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_K2 Posted January 26, 2012 Share Posted January 26, 2012 Thanks for explanation. The result is stunning, One would never say Thanks again, Martin Yep, Kev does some real nice work indeed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted January 26, 2012 Author Share Posted January 26, 2012 Yep, Kev does some real nice work indeed. Kev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martinnfb Posted January 27, 2012 Share Posted January 27, 2012 there is no doubt about that Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_K2 Posted January 27, 2012 Share Posted January 27, 2012 I really like the F-8's with the yellow band around the nose, and intend to do that to my 1:32 Hasegawa kit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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