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Hasegawa 1/32 BF2C-1

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I would agree that the easiest way is to drill holes all the way through the bottom wing (but not through the top wing). Use superglue or expoxy to glue fishing line or whatever rigging material you like into the top wing hole, let dry, then thread it through the bottom wing hole, put some superglue or epoxy on that line and use a clamp to pull it tight and dry. Once done, use a sharp, new blade to cut off the excess, fill and touch up the paint.

 

On my first bipe, I drilled through both wings, but found that it was not necessary to drill through the top and just created more clean up for myself. I've got a writeup (with pics) I did for this on the home PC and will post it in this forum (even though it is a 1/48 Gladiator) in the event anyone might find it useful :)

 

Cheers,

 

Doug

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On my first bipe, I drilled through both wings, but found that it was not necessary to drill through the top and just created more clean up for myself.

Cheers,

 

Doug

 

Yeah your probably right. That never occurred to me, good idea.

 

Ron

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I have looked for a way to obtain "flat wire" to rig these between the war planes and haven't been successful yet. While they specify that they sell even small quantities, most wire companies run away extremely fast if they hear the word "hobby".

 

Why flat wire? The Boeing P-26 rigging diagram (on the back page of the Aerofax book) calls out 1/2 inch and 3/8 inch wide rigging (0.0156" and 0.0117" wide). I hear the same thing on F4B-4, Sparrowhawk, and other planes of that era. This is really small in 1/32, but looks very different compared to round fishing line. I even have tried getting prototype pe metal for this, and it also looks pretty nice @ 0.005" thick, but haven't found a good source like the RAF wiring now available (which is actually a lot smaller in width).

 

At least we don't have the complexity of the turnbuckles that they used in WWI... they hid these inside the wings for the most part.

 

Tnarg

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Have you checked out this RAF rigging wire from Radu:

 

RAF Flying Wires

 

That is just one of the 4 different types he carries :)

 

Cheers,

 

Doug

Edited by DougN

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I appreciate the input from everyone regarding rigging-this is definitely going to be a learning experience. I think there's more useful knowledge on this site than probably any other modeling site on the net. :party0023:

 

My game plan at this point is to prep the wings (which are requiring a lot of bodywork), then put it back into the dry-fit for planning of the wires. Before I start with anything hands-on regarding the rigging, I'm gonna look at this material and see if I can learn enough not to totally screw it up.

 

Regards;

 

Automaton

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Hi

this is a link to more cockpit photo's that i found a little while back.

 

Curtiss : BF2C : Goshawk

 

Has a bit more close up detail to help with the cockpit.

 

Cheers

Edited by Tim Carroll

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I would agree that the easiest way is to drill holes all the way through the bottom wing (but not through the top wing). Use superglue or expoxy to glue fishing line or whatever rigging material you like into the top wing hole, let dry, then thread it through the bottom wing hole, put some superglue or epoxy on that line and use a clamp to pull it tight and dry. Once done, use a sharp, new blade to cut off the excess, fill and touch up the paint.

 

On my first bipe, I drilled through both wings, but found that it was not necessary to drill through the top and just created more clean up for myself. I've got a writeup (with pics) I did for this on the home PC and will post it in this forum (even though it is a 1/48 Gladiator) in the event anyone might find it useful :)

 

Cheers,

 

Doug

 

Great tips, I will have to give that a try to my He-51 and eventual Gladdy!

 

 

 

I have looked for a way to obtain "flat wire" to rig these between the war planes and haven't been successful yet. While they specify that they sell even small quantities, most wire companies run away extremely fast if they hear the word "hobby".

 

Why flat wire? The Boeing P-26 rigging diagram (on the back page of the Aerofax book) calls out 1/2 inch and 3/8 inch wide rigging (0.0156" and 0.0117" wide). I hear the same thing on F4B-4, Sparrowhawk, and other planes of that era. This is really small in 1/32, but looks very different compared to round fishing line. I even have tried getting prototype pe metal for this, and it also looks pretty nice @ 0.005" thick, but haven't found a good source like the RAF wiring now available (which is actually a lot smaller in width).

 

At least we don't have the complexity of the turnbuckles that they used in WWI... they hid these inside the wings for the most part.

 

Tnarg

 

I too saw the stuff at Radus site and like the flatness. After doing some rigging of Aerial antenna wires, I found by far and away the easiest way to reproduce "flat" wire, is to use flat wire.............flat but stretchy:

 

DSCF3395a.jpg

 

EZ Line comes in many colors, two thicknesses and IS flat. It stretches 7 times its own length, and it takes well to CA, and paint. Its almost indestructible, and works very well, I cant wait to use it for rigging

 

Brian

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Great tips, I will have to give that a try to my He-51 and eventual Gladdy!

 

 

 

 

 

I too saw the stuff at Radus site and like the flatness. After doing some rigging of Aerial antenna wires, I found by far and away the easiest way to reproduce "flat" wire, is to use flat wire.............flat but stretchy:

 

DSCF3395a.jpg

 

EZ Line comes in many colors, two thicknesses and IS flat. It stretches 7 times its own length, and it takes well to CA, and paint. Its almost indestructible, and works very well, I cant wait to use it for rigging

 

Brian

 

Just got my first batch of this to use with my WNW Nineack. I've tried metal (which can work really well) and fishing line, but this stuff seems far easier to use. I've sad for many minutes (seems like hours) waiting for super clue to cure on fishing line, only to see it sag as soon as I let go.

:BANGHEAD2:

 

I also have a fairly sizeable batch of Bob's Buckles/brass tubing. It'll be interesting as I've never taken this approach before.

 

 

Regards,

 

Tim W.

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Just got my first batch of this to use with my WNW Nineack. I've tried metal (which can work really well) and fishing line, but this stuff seems far easier to use. I've sad for many minutes (seems like hours) waiting for super clue to cure on fishing line, only to see it sag as soon as I let go.

:BANGHEAD2:

 

I also have a fairly sizeable batch of Bob's Buckles/brass tubing. It'll be interesting as I've never taken this approach before.

 

 

Regards,

 

Tim W.

 

I have a friend who has models over 4 years old that have rigging/aerial antennas, and one he said he even got wet (dont ask me how :rolleyes: ) and even after all these years, are still as taut and sag free as the day he put them on. I believe he used the smaller of the two EZ Line sizes.

 

I too have a whole SLEW of Bobs buckles........cant use em on the Gladdy, but will on my DV and eventually (i HOPE) a WnW DH2

 

Brian

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>I too have a whole SLEW of Bobs buckles........cant use em on the >Gladdy, but will on my DV and eventually (i HOPE) a WnW DH2

 

Oooo, here's hoping for that and a the FE-2. Soon! :)

 

TimW

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For my BF2c1 build, I drilled the rigging points at the correctest angles I could, test fit, and aligned the wings, which were then cleaned for a good fit. I assembled the top wing to struts, and coiled the rigging lines and taped them down where available space permitted. I glued them up with gators grip glue, making sure to align away from line of tension, so as not to pull thru the glue. My build thread is in the Carrier aircraft build, and is titled "It's raining hawks" maybe the pics will help explain better.

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Mike,

 

Perhaps you could copy out the relevant rigging parts of your build and post them into the rigging sticky we have at the top of the page?

 

Cheers,

 

Doug

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I had a play with one of these a few years ago and got the Vector engine, but I couldnt get it to fit the Townend ring.I am sure its possible and you could forego some cylinder head detail as its hidden.

 

I bet the inside of the cockpit looks like the F4B. You could replicate that with plastic strip and spares, maybe a seat from a Dauntless?

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I had a play with one of these a few years ago and got the Vector engine, but I couldnt get it to fit the Townend ring.I am sure its possible and you could forego some cylinder head detail as its hidden.

 

I bet the inside of the cockpit looks like the F4B. You could replicate that with plastic strip and spares, maybe a seat from a Dauntless?

 

You know, in the test fitting I've done, it doesn't appear that even the kit engine will fit in the ring (unless I'm misunderstanding something). :o I'm probably still going to use a Vector engine on this project, and I think you're right that some cylinder head modifications may have to happen.

 

And the cockpit? Very sparse and what little detail is there is completely wrong. Looks like my "straightforward" build is going to turn into my typical AMS fest. :rolleyes:

 

This one has been on the back burner for the last couple of weeks due to my being absorbed in trying to figure out something I'm trying to do on my other build. I've made some progress on that now, so hopefully can devote some energy to this project soon.

 

Regards;

 

Automaton

Edited by automaton

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