spacewolf Posted September 21, 2010 Share Posted September 21, 2010 Hey Kev Nice work on the rear deck and the scribing...lots of work there. Looks great ! Cheers Vaughn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted September 21, 2010 Author Share Posted September 21, 2010 Nice work on the rear deck and the scribing...lots of work there. Looks great ! Thanks Vaughn. Here's a shot of the area after priming: I haven't done any work on the cockpit itself to this point - only the underside of the tub as viewable from the wheel bay. Having checked things out however, I realised there was a problem. James H generously donated his leftover Trumpeter parts for this build, but had already done some assembly with the cockpit tub. The problem was, the IP was meant to be fitted prior to this assembly: I figured I'd try extending the small slots all the way up, and seeing if I could fit the IP in after the fact: Success! Now I can look at painting and detailing the entire thing, ready for fitting into the fuselage. Kev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WrongWay Posted September 21, 2010 Share Posted September 21, 2010 Absolutely superb work there Kevin! That's going to be a stunner for sure. Hard to keep up with all the fantastic projects going on here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted September 21, 2010 Author Share Posted September 21, 2010 I know the main wheel bays are natural metal, but what of the nose wheel bay? NM or 02? And the gear legs themselves? I've just found the following info over at Swanny's Models, which is definitive enough for me: Me-262's had main gear bay/cockpit tub underside left in natural metal. However, nose wheel bay and strut were painted RLM 02. Some Me-262's had the main wheel well and/or nose wheel bay painted RLM 76. So, RLM 02 it is! Absolutely superb work there Kevin! That's going to be a stunner for sure. Hard to keep up with all the fantastic projects going on here. Thank you my friend. Let's hope I don't screw this one up somewhere! Kev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kahunaminor Posted September 21, 2010 Share Posted September 21, 2010 Kev, Every time I think about getting my 262 out again, I see one of your fabulous updates and I get 262 envy!! and back under the bench it goes! That is just cracking along. Congratulations and please keep up the good work!! Regards Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gomer Posted September 21, 2010 Share Posted September 21, 2010 very nice work kevin keep the pictures coming. jerry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted September 22, 2010 Author Share Posted September 22, 2010 Thanks fellas. Kent, I'd like to think I might be inspiring you, rather than making you give up! I'd love to see an update to your 262. For mine, I've been dealing with the nose leg. One of the problems you face when electing to use metal parts for this is cleaning up seams and such. Trumpeter's metal landing gear parts seem to be copies of their plastic counterparts, and as such still feature seam lines and ejection pin marks: I think I'll leave the ejector pin mark, as it's in a really awkward spot, and being metal, is a mite harder to deal with than plastic anyway. I'm open to any suggestions though. My real question for this update is what to use as a primer? I primed this one using Mr Surfacer 1200, and though you can't really see it in the lower section of the photo above, the area where the arrow is pointing is where a large slab came straight off under some masking tape. I think both Gunze and Tamiya offer metal primers, but are they any good? Or is there a better/cheaper way to prime these metal parts? Kev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
big matt Posted September 22, 2010 Share Posted September 22, 2010 Looking good Kevin. I tried this kit a while back and ended up having a fit and vowing never to touch an old Hasegawa kit again. The zero and now the 262, you are too much! Awesome. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted September 22, 2010 Author Share Posted September 22, 2010 Looking good Kevin. I tried this kit a while back and ended up having a fit and vowing never to touch an old Hasegawa kit again. The zero and now the 262, you are too much! Awesome. Hey, thanks Matt, I appreciate it! This one is actually a lot easier than the Zero was. I'm hoping that's at least partly because I'm a better modeller now, but I also have Brian's builds to copy, whereas I had to make most of it up for the Zero. Plus, I think there's just a little bit of Russ in this one... Kev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted September 22, 2010 Author Share Posted September 22, 2010 Kev, I have always just used Tamiya fine white primer with no probs.....Harv Thanks Harv. I think I might have some of that somewhere. Kev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted September 22, 2010 Author Share Posted September 22, 2010 Thanks Harv. I think I might have some of that somewhere. Kev Yep, I do. But it's the gray - is there any difference other than colour? It says "for plastic & metal" on the front. Sounds like what I need. I really thought Mr Surfacer would've cut it though. Kev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted September 22, 2010 Author Share Posted September 22, 2010 Kev, I have never used the gray. But as long as it is the Fine primer, I wouldn't think color would make any difference.....harv OK, thanks Harv. The one I have just says "Surface Primer", so perhaps it's a different grade. I'll try it anyway and see what happens. Kev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Out2gtcha Posted September 22, 2010 Share Posted September 22, 2010 OK, thanks Harv. The one I have just says "Surface Primer", so perhaps it's a different grade. I'll try it anyway and see what happens. Kev Usually Kev that is the grey one that is the rougher off the two. Usually it will always say fine on it. The cans of Tam primer we have at our LHS that are grey are a bit more course than the white fine stuff. Brian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilB Posted September 22, 2010 Share Posted September 22, 2010 Don't know if this might be of help Kev, but in the UK we use a lot of Halfords primer. Its designed for car body priming, comes in a rattle can and is great for metal. Perhaps you might have some sort of equivalent in Australia from your local car spares/automotive goods type place? Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted September 22, 2010 Author Share Posted September 22, 2010 Well, I tried the Tamiya grey primer today, and it seemed to work fine. I shot it straight from the rattle can, and it went on quite smoothly. I haven't tried the tape test for adhesion, but I suspect it'll be fine. I think the sheer volume of paint applied, compared to airbrushing it, should make for a nice, robust surface. In fact, I've already slapped a coat of RLM 02 on it! More soon. Kev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now